Does anyone know if a lower temp thermostat is available for the TD6 at all and what the opening temp is for the standard unit?? FFRR MY06 facelift With TDV8 Alloys Zeros/ATR's
Mantec Sump Guard, Rigid Load liner, MY10 BT upgrade.

Standard thermostat opening 88C.

cheers NDF, thats not too bad then  FFRR MY06 facelift With TDV8 Alloys Zeros/ATR's
Mantec Sump Guard, Rigid Load liner, MY10 BT upgrade.

And you are a sucker for punishment if you want to change your TD6 thermostat when you don't have to!!  .
Experience is the only genuine knowledge, but as time passes, I have forgotten more than I can remember
Volvo V70 P2 2006 2.4 Petrol 170bhp Estate SE
MG Midget Mk1 1962

Previous: L322 Range Rover TDV8 3.6 2008; L322 Range Rover TD6 3.0 2002; P38A Range Rover V8 1999

....WILL, why are you worrying about the thermostat when yours is all smashed up.. ... - .- -.




Y. O. L. O.
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Just pondering as i dont have the viscous fan anymore that maybe while half the front end is off i could pop by and replace it as i need to do the coolant and thought about getting a lower temp one say 83'c or such  FFRR MY06 facelift With TDV8 Alloys Zeros/ATR's
Mantec Sump Guard, Rigid Load liner, MY10 BT upgrade.

ahh, makes sense..  ... - .- -.




Y. O. L. O.
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stan wrote:

ahh, makes sense..

No it doesn't, well not to me.
Why run without a fan?
The computerised temperature gauges on BMW sourced cars are notoriously inaccurate and will read normal while your engine glows red. This is because BMW do not want to worry the driver.
Also I thought these diesel engines are very thermal efficient so need any help they can to get to operating temperature. Yes I know I have contradicted my previous statement

I might be wrong though

Adrian VW Amarok 2014 Highline auto

I agree with ahebron, the engine only operates efficiently and properly at 88C, you will cause extra bore wear and higher fuel consumption by lowering the stat temperature

stan wrote:

ahh, makes sense..

...in respect of doing the job whilst said fullfat is in bits....  ... - .- -.




Y. O. L. O.
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I run without the Viscous fan as the viscous failed and locked up on mine due to the bearings coming out.

I've run without it ok for ages but thought while i do the coolant which is due for a change ASAP i'd stick in a thermostat a few 'c lower as engines get older they run hotter IME so want to negate this affect. FFRR MY06 facelift With TDV8 Alloys Zeros/ATR's
Mantec Sump Guard, Rigid Load liner, MY10 BT upgrade.

Why not just pop a new viscous fan in?

Being a diesel I seriously doubt the engine runs overly hot at anytime even in summer. I ran my Disco without a viscous fan for 10 years and never had a problem.
Wouldn't rely on the vehicle temperature gauge as ahebron indicates, as with most LR products the gauge is deliberately manufactured to indicate normal so as to reassure owners. In reality at "normal indication" the coolant temperature is anywhere between 40C and 130C neither of which is generally a problem.
If you want to know the coolant temperature accurately fit a VDO gauge or similar.

You could fit another gauge... Or just read the temperature direct from the message display.

Because it makes the engine noisier and i like my super quiet TD6 Simes

Also it will be a PITA and its just going to go wrong again in the future and increases MPG and loses a bit of engine power.

I tend to ignore gauges and use the open bonnet method of heat indication, one reason i want to flush is that its a bit warmer than i think it should be and is possibly a half gunged up rad may be causing it but IME flushing the system and changing to new coolant can be enough to kill an old stat or pump so it could be a job lot that i do at once..  FFRR MY06 facelift With TDV8 Alloys Zeros/ATR's
Mantec Sump Guard, Rigid Load liner, MY10 BT upgrade.