Got problem with the auxiliary heater , I can program it to come on no probs , I can use the remote no probs ,, the problem is it will run cold for about 30 seconds then stop ,, it won't fire up and run any heat through it ,, it's on a 03 td6 vogue ,, any ideas please

Is it because it is too warm outside?? I thought they only worked below a certain temp? Previously..
Vogue SE TD6
Defender 90 2.4
Defender 110 TD5
Vogue 3.5 EFI

I didn't know that , it could be , what temp would it kick in ?

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Looks like it kicks in at 5 degrees or below , I'll have to wait for colder weather then

The auxiliary heat kicks in at cold temps. The park heat function always works- and the start sequence that ends is a def indication of a prob.

Wrote this for another thread (and just posted the same info to yet another thread...) but it bsaically answers your question. JR has kindly let me know that my info is old - the flame sensor is no longer a photo cell. Resistance measured across the glow plug determines the presence of a flame. All other info is correct and applies to you.

SteveMFr wrote:

JR's info is spot on.

The ignition sequence for the FBH is (exactly the same as an oil furnace, btw):

- glow plug pre-heat ~30sec. > fuel pump on ~5sec > combustion air fan on > flame sensor must detect a flame w/in ~5-10 sec or it automatically shuts down.


These times are very approximate and stem from when I used to work on these things over 15 years ago. I'm sure there is a service manual for the FBH floating around the net somewhere. There will be an accurate time line printed in that.

You can hear each of these steps (except for the glow plug heating, obviously :-p ): about 30 secs after the FBH is told to start the fuel pump can be heard ticking quietly (rear seat), and then the combustion air blower begins to whir (behind the RF wheel). If the FBH ignites, the whir will grow to a small jet-engine like sound.

The FBH is a very simple device and really does function just like a small oil furnace only that the fuel is not injected but rather metered exactly on to a membrane. The combustion air fan (or blower) also has to blow an exact volume of air through the membrane so that the mixture is correct. The glow plug ignites the mixture and the flame sensor (a simple photo cell) must report the presence of a flame w/in a certain time or the FBH shuts down as a precautionary measure before the fuel pump fills the FBH with unburnt fuel. Both the fuel pump and the combustion air fan are designed to meter the fuel / air exactly when the receive 12V and are otherwise more or less 'sealed units'. If they do not function properly, they must be replaced.

The most likely culprits in a failed ignition sequence are (from most to least likely):

- bad glow plug
- bad flame sensor (in this case you'd hear the FBH ignite as described above but it would then suddenly shut down)
- bad fuel pump (no fuel/too little fuel)
- bad combustion air fan (no air/too little air)

As my experience is based on working on FBH's in general and I have no experience working on exactly the FBH's in our RR's, I can not tell you how sensitive the ECU's are and how far up the likelihood ladder they should be placed. I can tell you that based on my experiences on working with auto electrics/electronics, ECU's are replaced far more often than necessary by technicians inexperienced on that particular vehicle system.

As the IIDTool is giving you a flame sensor fault, listen to the ignition sequence. If you can hear the whir grow to a (very small ) roar after a couple of seconds and the FBH then still shuts down, this will be your prob. A new flame detector should not cost more than GBP20-25 max. The only other alternatives at that point would be the ECU or an even more rare wiring prob (short to ground in the flame detector wiring).

Please let us know what happens.

 
RRC 2Dr, RRC 4Dr,
P38, and 2 L322s
(wife thinks I'm nuts - prob right, too)

Thanks very much for the info, ill get a new glow plug , any idea where I get one from ?

Check before buying - unless you have too much money! (in which case, please pay for my flight and I will repair your FBH and any other defective appliances you might have around the house for an appropriate price )

You can simply measure resistance on the glow plug. JR describes this - I believe in the Webasto FBH thread. 
RRC 2Dr, RRC 4Dr,
P38, and 2 L322s
(wife thinks I'm nuts - prob right, too)

Many thanks Steve , I will do that , Unfortunatly I don't have that much money pmsl

From memory its 7 degrees or below for the car to turn the FBH on when you start the car to assist warm up time.

But its 16 degrees or below to heat with remote etc
but if its above 16 it will vent the car not heat


So it should work now as mine does RANGE ROVER 04 TD6
RANGE ROVER ULTIMATE EDITION 2012
UPGRADE.
MK 4 SATNAV
http://www.flickr.com/photos/jrautoelectrics/