I Have just done this so thought i would do a quick write up, there is another one somewhere on here i saw yesterday, but i have just searched for it again and cant find it so here is another.

Tools required:
Jack
Axle stands
wheel chock (should be one in the boot)
wheel brace

13mm Spanner
11mm spanner
Thin Jawed adjustable spanner
hammer, you always need a hammer.
medium sized G clamp

flat head screwdriver.

parts needed:
Replacement pads
replacement wear sensor (optional if intact)
copper grease or better non metalic paste
penetrating oil
brake cleaner

Method I used
1. Crack off the wheel nuts but leave finger tight.
2. Chock a wheel on the opposite side of the vehicle
3. locate jack in the jacking point and raise the vehicle to a height where an axle stand will fit under it.
4. remove the wheel

5. apply some penetrating oil to the bolts retaining the calliper and leave to do its work.
6. the calipers are held on with 2 x 13mm bolts, these in turn are screwed into a sliding pin which allows the caliper to move, the sliding pin needs holding steady with a set of thin jawed adjustables or a thin spanner, I think it is a 15mm.
7. remove the 13mm bolts and slide off the calliper, i put a small ikea stool under it for support, cable ties will work or a bungee, dont let it hang by the brake pipe.
8. the old pads can now be removed. they may take some persuading, hence the hammer
9. gently remove the anti rattle clips, and clean them up with the brake cleaner and the flat head screwdriver
10 clean the area where the clips sit on the calliper bracket, corrosion can build up and make the new pads difficult to fit.

11. refit the retaining clips into the claiper bracket
12. fit the new pads into the caliper bracket, some persuasion may be required.
13. push the piston back into the calliper using the G clamp. depending on the level in the brake fluid reservoir, the bleed nipple can be slackened and some of the fluid bled out. not neccessary of the level in the reservoir is sufficiently low as there will be capacity for the surplus fluid to be pushed back.

14. apply some copper grease or ceramic compound to the rear of the pads and smear around.
15 refit the caliper and tighten the new bolts which came with the pads into the sliding pins.

if a replacement wear sensor is required, remove the old one noting where it fits in the retaining clips, and refit the new one in the same place. It looks like you have to remove the arch liner to get at the connections but it is do-able if the 8mm bolt holding the centre of the liner is removed. This gives just enough access.

16. refit the wheels
17. remove axle stands, lower car and torque wheel nuts to 140nm

repeat the procedure on the other side of the car.

With the engine off, pump the break pedal to expand the callipers, until a firm pedal is felt.
Road test the car.

this should about cover it. However, no doubt i have missed something out somewhere so please feel free to put up any corrections.

Loads a money saved doing it yourself and it really isnt that difficult with a basic set of tools.

Have fun, get dirty, then annoy your Doris by washing your hands and drying them on the clean tea towel.  There is nothing that can't be fixed with a hammer😜😜
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