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Member Since: 06 May 2011
Location: Falkirk
Posts: 528

2006 Range Rover Autobiography Supercharged Zambezi Silver
Front Suspension Arms - Replacements

I've got a knock from the front RHS that's developed over the past week, I need to get it on the ramp but my guess is the tie-rod ball joint, (or rear upper arm whatever you want to call it !)

I've been looking at prices for full arms, ball joints etc and Land Rover parts prices for these items are very expensive - i.e. circa £150 versus £50 for OEM badged parts (source Bearmach) through www.lrdirect.com.

Question is - will they be as good and last ? My current bushes are all original and this is the first issue I've had at approaching 100k miles......

Thoughts on this please ???

Thanks Stolen / Gone: 2006MY Supercharged LPG Autobiography - Zambezi Silver with Sand/Jet/Jet Oxford Leather.....

Post #204056 15th Aug 2013 7:56am
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chris_read



Member Since: 26 Feb 2012
Location: Louth, Lincolnshire
Posts: 476

England 2009 Range Rover Vogue TDV8 Stornoway Grey

I've had a similar knocking recently. I had an advisory on my MOT saying that the offside lower suspension arm bush was worn and would need replacing soon. At 105000 miles I decided to go the Britpart route, buying a pair of lower arms for about £70 from e-bay (and new bolts/nuts). Now I've changed them I love my car again - no knocking at all and, possibly it's psychological, but the car seems to handle far better.
It's not a difficult job (as long as the bolts aren't seized). There's a good 'walk-through' in the Wiki but also look at my post last week regarding removing the ball joint.

Hope you get it sorted!

Very Happy

Post #204057 15th Aug 2013 8:09am
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Contraband



Member Since: 08 Nov 2010
Location: FIFE
Posts: 3700

Scotland 

In my experience, and very common with others, it's the lower control arm, transverse link or whatever name others give it. Number 9, or 14 for rhs. Can only really be checked with all weight off the wheel, not ramps. With the fattie jacked up and a hand top and bottom of the wheel, you should feel play.

Click image to enlarge


Admin note: this post has had its images recovered from a money grabbing photo hosting site and reinstated Mr. Green  Previously..
Vogue SE TD6
Defender 90 2.4
Defender 110 TD5
Vogue 3.5 EFI

Post #204058 15th Aug 2013 8:10am
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chris_read



Member Since: 26 Feb 2012
Location: Louth, Lincolnshire
Posts: 476

England 2009 Range Rover Vogue TDV8 Stornoway Grey

Good pic - I changed 9 and 14 (which I referred to as lower suspension arms).

Post #204060 15th Aug 2013 8:13am
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ahebron



Member Since: 01 Jan 2012
Location: The other Eastbourne
Posts: 341

New Zealand 

Well according to that diagram/picture all I have left to change are 9 and 14. Every time I replace a component the knock/rattle/vibration is cured then 2 weeks later appears in another opponent. They should be with me soon as ordered this week. Anti roll bar bushes next but they aren't on that diagram.

Adrian VW Amarok 2014 Highline auto

Post #204061 15th Aug 2013 8:28am
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GraemeC



Member Since: 01 Jul 2012
Location: Chester
Posts: 836

United Kingdom 2007 Range Rover Vogue SE TDV8 Zermatt Silver

I had a knocking on mine from front left and it was the lower control arm, transverse link or whatever name others give it....

A chap local to me (recommended by Kingpleb on here) changed it for £65 includuing the part (I presume not original Land Rover but at that price who cares!) and knocking was cured. 8k later I've had no issues Mr. Green 2007 Zermatt Silver TDV8 Vogue SE - now sold but was a great car!

Post #204065 15th Aug 2013 8:49am
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Richcl



Member Since: 23 Sep 2010
Location: Tewkesbury, Glos
Posts: 1011

United Kingdom 2002 Range Rover HSE Td6 Zermatt Silver

I'd buy genuine, I didn't when my suspension knocked, and the car suspension still knocked after fitting new part!
After a lot of buying other unnecessary parts I found the new parts knocked as well!!

Now fitted with genuine (no knock) parts, I wasted time and money due to non genuine and putting up with a suspension knock that drove me mad!!

Genuine parts are worth paying that little bit extra for.

Post #204139 15th Aug 2013 2:26pm
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CG-SC



Member Since: 06 May 2011
Location: Falkirk
Posts: 528

2006 Range Rover Autobiography Supercharged Zambezi Silver

Thanks for the advice - I took it to my mates MOT station and put it on the shaker plates, its the RHS lower arm ball joint as predicted by a few of you.

Have decided to change both sides and also the tie-rod bushes / balljoints as well - ordered parts from Dan yesterday.......I figured at approaching 100k miles they could be doing with replacing to tighten it up.

Rear bushes next then a 4 wheel alignment should be good as new Thumbs Up Stolen / Gone: 2006MY Supercharged LPG Autobiography - Zambezi Silver with Sand/Jet/Jet Oxford Leather.....

Post #204493 17th Aug 2013 9:19am
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CG-SC



Member Since: 06 May 2011
Location: Falkirk
Posts: 528

2006 Range Rover Autobiography Supercharged Zambezi Silver

All suspension arms now replaced, was a complete Censored of a job as the ball joints on the the hub assembly (the ones that bolt in and are connected to the compresion arm) would not come out so the hubs had to come off to get access to 'persuade' them out......

Feels a lot 'tighter' now and clunk free again Thumbs Up

For the record, it was the transverse arm balljoint (lower arm) that was causing the knocking, however, the big bushes on the compression arm that attach to the subframe had a fair amount of play in them. Rear bushes planned next and then a 4 wheel alignment, just wondering whether I should change the track rod ends before the alignment as a precaution (although, they felt OK when they were removed to do the front arms) Stolen / Gone: 2006MY Supercharged LPG Autobiography - Zambezi Silver with Sand/Jet/Jet Oxford Leather.....

Post #205199 22nd Aug 2013 8:18am
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