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Home > Maintenance & Mods (L322) > 2002-2005 M62 PCV Valve - then it went a bit wrong!
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Danwilderspin



Member Since: 15 Jun 2016
Location: Cambridgeshire
Posts: 2180

United Kingdom 2007 Range Rover Vogue SE 4.2 SC V8 Zermatt Silver

Cheers for asking! Well I asked for recommendations in the area not heard any - I then found a little 4x4 center in the next town along no good or bad reviews seem to know there stuff though they had a TDV8 in for an engine and gearbox rebuild just waiting on a quote. If I wasn’t moving into a new house plus trying to sort the old one and trying to get the boat ready for the season I’d do it myself but not feeling a 3rd cover off job unless it’s ridiculously expensive! Current stable:
2006 BMW M6
2007 4.2 V8 S/C FF
Gone:
2002 4.4 V8 FF

Post #470287 27th Feb 2018 7:30pm
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holidaychicken



Member Since: 06 Nov 2013
Location: Kent
Posts: 1086

United Kingdom 2004 Range Rover Vogue 4.4 V8 Java Black

Sounds like your hands are full, I would combine your two hobbies and see if the rangey floats Mr. Green

Post #470465 28th Feb 2018 11:36pm
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Danwilderspin



Member Since: 15 Jun 2016
Location: Cambridgeshire
Posts: 2180

United Kingdom 2007 Range Rover Vogue SE 4.2 SC V8 Zermatt Silver

haha topgear/grand tour style! if you were closer i'd seek your assistance if you wanted to give it but right now just need it sorted... Current stable:
2006 BMW M6
2007 4.2 V8 S/C FF
Gone:
2002 4.4 V8 FF

Post #470501 1st Mar 2018 9:53am
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holidaychicken



Member Since: 06 Nov 2013
Location: Kent
Posts: 1086

United Kingdom 2004 Range Rover Vogue 4.4 V8 Java Black

If you were closer i'd move !!! Very Happy

Post #470505 1st Mar 2018 10:30am
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Danwilderspin



Member Since: 15 Jun 2016
Location: Cambridgeshire
Posts: 2180

United Kingdom 2007 Range Rover Vogue SE 4.2 SC V8 Zermatt Silver

Laughing Current stable:
2006 BMW M6
2007 4.2 V8 S/C FF
Gone:
2002 4.4 V8 FF

Post #470514 1st Mar 2018 11:30am
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Danwilderspin



Member Since: 15 Jun 2016
Location: Cambridgeshire
Posts: 2180

United Kingdom 2007 Range Rover Vogue SE 4.2 SC V8 Zermatt Silver

All done - parts from Bmw - new rocker gasket , pcv, gasket and rubber studs just over £100, (let me supply my own parts as I get a decent discount at Bmw) labour for all that £200 - not bad at all and they kept all the old bits to walk through with me, the pcv didn’t look too bad but the bottom hose was split same for lower cyclone all leading to my lovely oil leak im sure... will do the dipstick test at the weekend Current stable:
2006 BMW M6
2007 4.2 V8 S/C FF
Gone:
2002 4.4 V8 FF

Post #471588 7th Mar 2018 10:28pm
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holidaychicken



Member Since: 06 Nov 2013
Location: Kent
Posts: 1086

United Kingdom 2004 Range Rover Vogue 4.4 V8 Java Black

Good news mate, could you see what was wrong with the old gasket or did they say what caused the gasket to squeeze out?

Post #471598 8th Mar 2018 6:53am
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Danwilderspin



Member Since: 15 Jun 2016
Location: Cambridgeshire
Posts: 2180

United Kingdom 2007 Range Rover Vogue SE 4.2 SC V8 Zermatt Silver

looks like overtightening from the wrong rubber donuts. i bought some from bmw in the end they were super soft Current stable:
2006 BMW M6
2007 4.2 V8 S/C FF
Gone:
2002 4.4 V8 FF

Post #471612 8th Mar 2018 9:18am
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Danwilderspin



Member Since: 15 Jun 2016
Location: Cambridgeshire
Posts: 2180

United Kingdom 2007 Range Rover Vogue SE 4.2 SC V8 Zermatt Silver

hi holiday chicken,

does this look better - its certainly an improvement

 Current stable:
2006 BMW M6
2007 4.2 V8 S/C FF
Gone:
2002 4.4 V8 FF

Post #472285 12th Mar 2018 5:10pm
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Jmckenzie295



Member Since: 18 Apr 2018
Location: Glasgow
Posts: 17

United Kingdom 2003 Range Rover Autobiography 4.4 V8 Java Black

Completed pcv and oil Separator today including lower hoses. Tough jobs due due to the bottom hoses.

Post #480064 3rd Jun 2018 10:10pm
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p38arover



Member Since: 16 Dec 2015
Location: Western Sydney
Posts: 1516

Australia 2004 Range Rover Vogue 4.4 V8 Adriatic Blue

Any chance of recovering the pix back into the first post in this thread? Ron B. VK2OTC
2004 L322 V8 Auto
2007 Yamaha XJR1300
Previous: 1983, 1986 RRC; 1995, 1996 P38A; 1995 Disco1; 1984 V8 County 110; Series IIA

Post #506008 22nd Feb 2019 10:53am
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crowebeard



Member Since: 19 Dec 2016
Location: Devon
Posts: 93

United Kingdom 2012 Range Rover Westminster 4.4 V8 Orkney Grey

Try here:

www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/replacing-t...ng.232995/

Pics still up and will hopefully help! Let us know how you get on.... David

2012 Range Rover Westminster 4.4TDV8
2004 Range Rover Vogue 4.4 V8 (LPG) (Not quite gone)
2021 Mazda CX-5
2003 Porsche Boxster

Post #506055 22nd Feb 2019 5:49pm
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p38arover



Member Since: 16 Dec 2015
Location: Western Sydney
Posts: 1516

Australia 2004 Range Rover Vogue 4.4 V8 Adriatic Blue

Thanks very much. I am about to do the PCV system and the valve cover gaskets.

Martin, can you grab the pics from there and put them back into this thread? Bow down Ron B. VK2OTC
2004 L322 V8 Auto
2007 Yamaha XJR1300
Previous: 1983, 1986 RRC; 1995, 1996 P38A; 1995 Disco1; 1984 V8 County 110; Series IIA

Post #506079 22nd Feb 2019 11:18pm
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p38arover



Member Since: 16 Dec 2015
Location: Western Sydney
Posts: 1516

Australia 2004 Range Rover Vogue 4.4 V8 Adriatic Blue

I've just done mine. Here's an edited copy of my thread on AULRO.

I just don't believe it!

I looked at the oil drip tray under my L322 this morning and there wasn't a single drop of oil. Yes, I immediately checked the oil level.

To quote Professor Julius Sumner Miller "Why is it so?" https://www.abc.net.au/science/features/whyisitso/

This is a car that has, ever since I bought it 3-1/2 years ago, left its mark. Lately, it's been leaving a pool of oil, not just a few drops.



The lack of oil drops may be explained by the fact that I changed the PCV valve and associated hoses over the weekend. The PCV valve was original (dated 2003), the cyclone had been changed (dated Mai 2008). Two of the hoses had rotted through.

Whoever in BMW designed the PCV system on the M62TUB44 engine in the L322 should be hung, drawn, quartered, and burned at the stake! And that's being too easy on him.

The PCV valve (LKR000040) is the greyed item in the image below:



I started at 4:30PM Saturday and finished at 2:30AM on Sunday (with 30 minutes off for dinner).

It took 2 hours to get the PCV valve off.

I used Storey Wilson's suggestion of kneeling on the engine to get access. It's not as easy to remove as Storey suggests in his video(s):



The initial problem was releasing the hose clamps. They may have been great in the factory but almost impossible to release in situ. I had to remove the valve with some hoses still attached. Even releasing the clips on the bench was extremely difficult. I had to destroy them to get them off. That didn't matter as I wasn't going to use them again. Unfortunately, I didn't pre-prepare and hadn't bought any Cobra clips (which I quite like) to replace the clips BMW used and had to use conventional Jubilee hose clamps. The Cobra clips require a special tool to install but they can be released relatively easily with a screwdriver.

These are the original clips. One can't get a screwdriver blade under the end to lift it. In addition the "long" piece sticking through is turned over to lock it in place.





Cobra clamps (aka Clic clamps):

Click image to enlarge




The PCV valve is bolted on with T30 Torx screws. They were so tight they were stripping out the head. In the end, I had to fight them with a pair of Vice Grips. Once I had managed to crack them loose, there was enough Torx socket left to unscrew them with a Torx bit. On reassembly, I replaced them with M6x25mm hex head bolts.

As can be seen in this pic, the hose 6C342B (part no. LLH000120 / LR003814) in the above image had failed at the PCV end so oil dribbled out of it instead of been fed down the dual pipe 6N664 to the sump. (Note: LR003814 supersedes LLH000120. 3814 is a straight piece of hose with small diameter tubes at each end. 0120 appears, from the diagram, to be shaped to go around various protrusions at the back of the engine.)



When I removed the cyclone/oil separator 6B673 (P/N LLP000010) (which I cleaned rather than replaced), the hose at the bottom 6C342A (P/N LLH000110) had also rotted away at the top end at the separator.



Now this hose is a mongrel to replace as is the hose above 6C342B, It is impossible to release the clips in situ. One needs to save the clips (particularly the ones on 6C342A) for reuse which, fortunately can be done. Trying to find a conventional hose clamp to fit the smaller diameter hose may be difficult. Cobra clamps would be ideal here.

Oh, I removed a few other brackets to improve access but I don't know that it helped.

After struggling for some time, I decided the best way was to remove the drain tube 6N664 from the sump and pull it out from under the car. This, of course, meant draining the sump. Once it was out, I was able to release the clamps and pull off the hoses. For reassembly, I fitted the hoses 6C342A and B with the original clamps before poking it back up from underneath the engine - I had access to a car hoist. I cleaned out the tubes to ensure they were clear. (I had to remove the separator as I couldn't feed the assembly down from the top.)



It took several attempts to thread the hoses up between the coolant manifold at the back of the engine. I had forgotten to take a pic of the hose routing before pulling it out. If you go this route, make sure you fit new sealing washers on the banjo connection at the sump. I didn't and was welcomed with a severe oil leak (about 2-3 drops per second) so I had to drain the engine oil again and redo the banjo connection.

Reconnecting the oil separator bottom drain outlet to hose 6C342A has to be done where one cannot get one's hands. Naturally, trying to hold a hose clamp and fit the separator was an exercise in futility and only ended when I lost, down under the inlet manifold, the only clamp of the right size that I had. In the end, I had to fit it without a hose clamp. Even then, I couldn't get the outlet into the hose until after I'd run a file around the end to give it a taper and I'd put some rubber grease on the tip. Which, of course, meant it would slip out of the hose when I tried bolting the separator back onto its bracket.

In the end, I removed the bracket from the PCV valve, fitted the separator to the bracket and then offered it up to the PCV.

BTW, I opened up the old PCV valve today and the diaphragm is still OK, I may not have had to replace it.



If you decide to do this job, these are the parts you will need:

Diagram Ref LR Part No.
6759A............8510366 supersedes LLH000130
6759B............8510367 supersedes LLH000140
6C342A..........LLH000110
6C342B..........LR003814 supersedes LLH000120
9E434A..........LKR000040 PCV Valve (transfer the blanking plug from the old PCV to the new PCV valve)
9E436A..........LKJ000060 PCV Valve Gasket

 Ron B. VK2OTC
2004 L322 V8 Auto
2007 Yamaha XJR1300
Previous: 1983, 1986 RRC; 1995, 1996 P38A; 1995 Disco1; 1984 V8 County 110; Series IIA

Post #518301 13th Jun 2019 10:55am
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