Johnboyairey, thanks for the comprehensive reply! I wonder if you could elaborate on what is unique about the block on rr variant? Our engine had indeed seized, and got properly hot - the plastic level guides on the dipstick have melted, and are currently blocking the dipstick tube!

Any other pointers greatly appreciated:)

Mr RugbyXV, I'll drop you a pm.

Cheers
Mark

IIRC there is a thread on Rangerovers.net where someone replaced the 4.4 with a scrapyard motor sourced from a BMW. As I remember it, there were no issues - pretty much straight in and out. Then again, I suffer from CRS, so I may be wrong.
Do a search there and I believe there was even a link from a thread here not too long ago. Stan?

Craig and Johnboy, I'd be very interested in the reasons why a BMW lump should not fit. Been toying with the idea of building an L322 off road racer with a couple of friends and one idea was to use a BMW M motor in an old 4.4... 
RRC 2Dr, RRC 4Dr,
P38, and 2 L322s
(wife thinks I'm nuts - prob right, too)

i cant elaborate on what I know about the differences, only to say that a lot of people have asked the same question. maybe talk to a breaker with a bmw m62tu44 unit out of car, travel to it and photo it, as first point of reference. especially the block (underneath too.) (that's what I would do) secondly, if you raise front up and remove sump(s) and look under, if you loosen the cod rods, can you force pistons up? sounds like you have not run crank bearings, perhaps with a decent lit borescope, you can see scoring, and research whether you can rebore it. it might need a hone, and rings. you could be lucky. EARLY non tu mod engines, ie the early bmw m62 7series lumps had the alusil liners, they finished in about 98, THEN the tub44 vanos was introduced later on, have a good look through a 7 (E38?)series forum, as those guys blow their engines up too! -im interested how you get on. its a jewel of an engine. but it pays to replace a good few things whilst dissasembled. what was you milage? p.s inspect it first in situ, before you buy a lump, take it out and show to a machine shop, before you buy a lump. lastly engine ancillaries for this engine cost a lot secondhand so factor that into when buying an engine etc. just thinking, does the bmw engine, have the water cooled alternator for a start,. that comes off with the front timing cover, not a block issue.

Well, thanks to Chris (RugbyXV) we now have a genuine rangie 4.4 to build up and put in our l322...

I will post some pictures up as we progress.

Cheers
Mark

yes keep us posted on the condition/observations of both engines! and the removal headaches!
as mentioned earlier, the timing chain/guides and vanos seals are ripe for replacement at this stage, and the toolset to time it are needed. that's after you get the ++'stad out!
bear this in mind, IF YOU ARE GOING TO REMOVE THE FRONT LOWER TIMING COVER, YOU MUST RELEASE THE SUPERTIGHT CRANKSHAFT PULLEY NUT FIRST! THIS MUST BE DONE WHILST ENGINE IS IN CAR. to do this you either buy another expensive tool, or do what it did. make one.
remove the crank pulley to use as a marking out tool. scribe the holes. onto a piece of 10mm thick 100mm square plate steel (ebay £5) and drill them and check em. then drill lots of holes to make a large circle to remove centre hole , or use an oxy torch to cut out the centre hole. then weld a foot long flat handle to it in 10mm bar (50mm wide )this acts as a stop to lock engine as you then need a 5ft scaffold pole to slide over a 3/4 sliding breaker bar, with socket, in order to release large nut , locked against the front subframe. stand on slam panel and pull like hell! when this nut is released you can then lock the engine at TDC etc. whilst out of car you cannot release it.
take you time, and bag the bolts! and take pics all the time

any news on your engine project situation yet?
I have since found out that (if you have no luck with that engine,) it IS possible to implant a bmw 7 series m62tub44 engine into the range rover. the differences are the sump and the oil pump and pump chain. the range sump has more baffles, and is deeper with a transverse tube through it for the driveshaft. maybe the oil pick up tube and dipstick, will be longer... I have sourced one of these engines, and am currently looking for a range sump and oil pump etc, as I am tidying the engine up, and giving it an overhaul etc. the starter will be on the correct side already, ie the drivers (UK) side, im not too sure of the engine mounts, but that is superfluous etc.

I spoke to a guy, and saw his range with a bmw engine in, and its fine!

Hi johnboy,

We are making some progress with our truck. We have got the front of the vehicle apart, and established that the engine is not seized, as we originally thought. As such we are planning to take the top end off and see what state the bores are in.

We have acquired another almost complete engine, albeit non-functioning, so our intention is to make one good engine out of the two.

The second engine, courtesy of chris (rugby Xv) is a genuine rr one, so we could potentially end up with some spare parts, including the sump you need...

Cheers
Mark 2007 TDV8 RR Sport HSE
2003 TD5 Discovery 2 ES
2001 TD5 Defender 110 DCPU
2003 4.4 RR Vogue [Project]

hi again mark, -I was just looking on youtube, and found this which might interest you. with some bmw 7 vs. RR differences, and tips. this engine is an X5 lump, same as RR