Seems to be a lot of tosh on here about "supermarket " fuel. Been using both derv and petrol for over 40 years covering hundreds of thousands of miles with no issues. However, did notice that the derv in France appeared to be less than ideal, with my vehicle smoking a little after one particular fill up at Calais. (Towing a caravan at the time). Previous cars:
S-Max 2007-2013 (only diesel I've had, good car but expensive when diesely bits go wrong, so what's the point?)
Galaxy 2001-2007
Mondeo Estate 1997-2001
Sierra Estate 1993-1997
Uno Turbo 1987 -1993
Fiesta 1984 - 1987
Fiat 127 1982 - 1984

My turn to get this. Car threw it a couple of weeks ago then cleared on restart but then came up again yesterday.
Was going to just open the drain on the bottom of the filter but it is not nearly as easy to access as on a TD5 Defender.
Has any one done it, is it simple enough if you dislocate your shoulder. Its the sort of thing that would hve been in a Haines manual years ago.
Car has done 80,000 miles and fully serviced. letters not necessarily in the right order

Last week I had the warning too.
There is not a word about it in the owners manual.
The service manual DOES describe how to drain the water from the fuel filter.
I haven't done it yet as the warning disappeared by itself, it looks to be quite simple: attach tube to drain port and open port one turn.

In my case I think it was real as I fueled up a couple of times during and after heavy snow fall.
The nozzles at the fuel stations were all covered in snow, I managed to tap most off but it was unavoidable to stop some from entering the tank.

Maybe that sudden power boost was some water injection?  2012 4.4TDV8
2000 Honda S2000

There is a fuel additive you can use that encapsulates the water and allows it to pass through your fuel injection system safely.

Obviously it wouldn't work if you have a large amount of water laying on your fuel.

I park up a Classic car for the winter and there were arguments amongst the owners club of the best way to do this.

Option A - brim the tank when you put it away for the winter so minimal internal tank surface for condensation to form on.

Option B - run the tank as close to dry as you can and put a tank of fresh fuel in when the car comes out of hibernation.

Option C - A full tank of fuel when you park it up and use the additive when you're ready to drive it again.

I've used option C a few times and you can literally feel when the water is being expelled. It not a back fire, more of a cough, but it seems to work well. 1988 Classic 3.5 EFI in Green - GONE.
1993 Classic 3.9 Vogue SE in Green - GONE.
1997 P38 4.6 HSE in Blue - GONE.
2002 P38 4.6 Vogue in Black - GONE.
2007 L322 4.2 SC in Java Black.
2007 Audi TT 3.2 V6.
1988 Porsche 930 turbo.

I have a 1972 Jensen Interceptor and I use option A - approx 73 litres

AND am about to take it for a spin today as it's so nice and sunny

But curious to know what fuel additive you use, as may try this today ie Option C

NB my uncle has a sit on mower and swears by the Mountfield one £7.31 for 250ml - he also uses it for his old Jaguar classic, he tried the Wynns one and did not think much of it, overpriced and took twice as much ( in volume ) to do the same as the Mountfield one.

https://www.gardenhirespares.co.uk/moms122...250ml.html

After doing some research there seems to be divided opinion about whether to add the fuel water remover additive as you brim the tank, and fewer people advocating to add it after the long winter, from your post you prefer to add it as the car comes out of hibernation