Jon, T-cut was applied first then rubbed off then after that panels where polished up. I don't use t-cut after every wash as its a cutting agent and I don't really like the stuff. If it dont work.......burn it!

If the IId tool cant fix it.......burn the FF.

If the FF cant be fixed......buy a Land Cruiser!

If the LC cant be fixed..............................................BUY a horse !!

Hi Welshdragon, just chipping in here with my bit of knowledge as a specialist valeter/detailer so please don't think I'm telling you what to do but you are safe as houses using T-cut, as a cutting agent is probably best not to be described that way, it will cut virtually nothing, its a filling polish/agent, it's beauty lies in the fact that it fills marring as opposed to polishing defects out, hence why defects re-appear after so many washes. If it was a cutting agent then why produce it colours such as black etc? You are cutting clear coat not your paint so why dye your cutting agent. Always willing to offer advice if needed, just drop me a line

Hmm I have used it for scuffs and getting rid of that awful tar spots. I don't really know what to use for tar spots on the paint work but have always used Autoglym afterwards for the best result in all my motors.

What do you use to rid the tar spot? just a hot soapy wash with a mitt doesn't shift the stuff for me

All help to keep the best of my fleet greatly appreciated

And yes guys driving down B roads in this weather is no fun!....But at least my FF bonnet looks good in the rain  If it dont work.......burn it!

If the IId tool cant fix it.......burn the FF.

If the FF cant be fixed......buy a Land Cruiser!

If the LC cant be fixed..............................................BUY a horse !!

get yourself a small car claybar kit to rid the tar spots. its just a piece of soft plastic-ey clay that you sort of rub gently but firmly over the tar areas. its actually better to do the whole section of offending panel. you will see the yuk in the clay. then do a light polish of the clayed panels and it will look great again. without going the full detail route, this is a cheap method. (around £6 a bar) from 3M use a little soapy water for lubrication. alternatively you can buy tar remover liquid from accessory shops, but I don't use that stuff.
search youtube for claybar-ing

Ahh great thank you Jon I'll try the clay barring next time.  If it dont work.......burn it!

If the IId tool cant fix it.......burn the FF.

If the FF cant be fixed......buy a Land Cruiser!

If the LC cant be fixed..............................................BUY a horse !!

If you use a clay bar just take it easy, on the older/harder tar spots you may end trying to hard and get claying marks as the bar slips, always remould your bar as it gets dirty. There is nothing wrong with tar remover per se as long as you remember its a strong solvent, whatever protection you have on your paintwork before you use it will be washed away so will need to be replaced

Welshdragon wrote:

Cheers Rosco done now pall

Fail.

Please don't take this as judging you as I have terrible spelling, as do plenty of other geniuses.*

This is a waist.



This is a waste, as in waste of time.



Spell checker is not helpful if you spell the wrong word correctly.












*(I had to look up how to spell geniuses) :lol:

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 If it dont work.......burn it!

If the IId tool cant fix it.......burn the FF.

If the FF cant be fixed......buy a Land Cruiser!

If the LC cant be fixed..............................................BUY a horse !!

You know why this bit of a woman is called a waist? Because you could get another pair of t*ts in there.



Admin note: this post has had its images recovered from a money grabbing photo hosting site and reinstated

spot on there

Now what polish do you use now!  If it dont work.......burn it!

If the IId tool cant fix it.......burn the FF.

If the FF cant be fixed......buy a Land Cruiser!

If the LC cant be fixed..............................................BUY a horse !!