Can anybody advise a "How To" check for binding and adjust rear manual handbrake on a 2005 L322?

I have decided to become a mechanic and practise on my own L322...

Vehicle on a level surface, chock front wheels, put gear lever into neutral position, crack open the rear wheel nuts but do not loosen them, jack up rear (one side at a time is safest) and place axle stand in an appropriate place where it will support the weight of the vehicle, lower jack until axle stand is taking the weight of the vehicle. Before removing rear wheel turn to check if it is binding. Remove wheel, remove plastic bung near centre of brake disc and using a torch locate the adjuster near the 6 o'clock position. Using a flat head screwdriver move the notched part of the adjuster either upwards or downwards (depends on what side you're adjusting) to make adjustments. The adjusters can sometimes seize and if there is no movement when applying pressure with the screwdriver then a strip down will be required to free it off. Once you have adjusted the brake carefully work the handbrake lever inside the vehicle several times to centralise the shoes then check the adjustment again. Once you are happy that it is working replace the plastic bung, refit the wheel and tighten as much as possible, jack up the vehicle and remove the axle stand and lower the vehicle to the ground. Once on the ground torque the wheel nuts to the recommended setting. Repeat for the other side.


Better to have the adjuster backed off 1 or 2 notches than have the brake binding as that will cause the hub to heat up

Excellent can I just confirm 1. that for a "Manual" Handrake as I have watch a video a few minutes ago for a Electronic EPB but is the cog wheel same on a manual handbrake? 2. Will the wheel spin in neutral even if only one wheel is jacked up?

Video (Its a sport but you get the idea)

Yes and yes

Top Man 47p2 - Can I borrow your lift!

Sure can Gaz

I want/need a lift I really like learning to do the smaller jobs on "MY" Range Rover. Stock always gets the LR Indy workshop treatment.

On this Disk (front) there is no rough rusty inner lip (same on other two) but the one I am working on has a nasty rusty lip on the inside that the brake pad is sitting over??

I still think this is odd/wrong?

FRONT (CLEAN NO RUSTY LIP)

They all do that eventually just chip the rust off by tapping it with a hammer.

Isn't it in the wiki?

if its not then it should be in the WM which is in the wiki, but John's explanation is good.... ... - .- -.




click link for ,

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workshop manual downloads are in our wiki

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OK some success.

I took the wheel off again and found the handbrake drum cog and tightened rather than loosened first time! Tried the other way and it clicked for a while and then stopped but the wheel was still not spinning freely.

*Alway click towards the outside of the drum to loosen. From in to out.*

Out came the hammer and some protective card. I bashed the drum all round and this seemed to free the bound drums. The wheel now spun easier but not completely free.

I tried to adjust further but could not get it to free completely although I am not sure how free it should be.

With the wheel back on I was able to easily spin the wheel but only with some effort not free-wheeling.

Any way 5 mile test drive and back and the wheel was not hot but the drum was still hotter than the other side and clicking & ticking so it not fully cured yet.

However thanks to the above I know its the handbrake-drum brakes so can get fixed if I cannot do more tomorrow.

On a final note I left the handbrake down not risking pulling it up in case they bound again. Should I pull it up a few times to reset the drums - could this be the issue?

Gary

Most likely full of crud from lack of use, when you hit it with the hammer did you notice a cloud of dust from the back of the drum? Yes pull the handbrake on and off a few times, that will centralise the shoes and if it does still stick then you need to strip down and clean. Wheel should turn without dragging, it will be heavy to turn because of the rear diff but should not have any tight spots and should not catch anywhere when turning a full 360 degrees