Hi all, I'm suffering at the moment, the ffrr is in hospital have its rumbling gearbox sorted,
I have been looking into ways to make the new one last longer, because I tow 3 tons + daily for distances. I'm keen to know if the eco tune boxes perform under extreme load?
Also been reading the manual, thats no help, just says go over 20 mph or use low range. It also suggests that you start in low range and change to high under certain conditions. I don't know about you, but this idea seams the best way to destroy the transfer box, to me.
Anyway as the handbook was proving as good as a chocolate fire guard, I thought that I'd see if the L/R workshop manual had any pearls of wisdom to share. To my surprise it states that the gearbox locks up in 3,4,5 ? I haven't noticed this. I'm beginning to think that this publication is the matching chocolate poker to go with the fire guard

anyhow for your viewing pleasure here is the page

AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION – GM 5L40-E
44-1-14 DESCRIPTION AND OPERATION
Description
General
The GM 5L40-E transmission is an electronically controlled, five speed unit specifically for use with the Td6 diesel
engine. The transmission is manufactured by General Motors (GM) Powertrain in Strasbourg, France.
The transmission is controlled by an Electronic Automatic Transmission (EAT) ECU which contains software to
provide operation as a semi-automatic 'Steptronic' transmission. This allows the transmission to be operated as a
conventional automatic unit by selecting P, R, N, D on the selector lever. Movement of the selector lever across the
gate to the 'M/S' position puts the transmission into electronic sport mode. Movement of the selector lever in a lateral
position to the + or – positions puts the transmission into electronic manual 'Steptronic' mode.
The GM 5L40-E transmission has the following features:
l Designed to provide maintenance free operation
l Transmission fluid is 'fill for life'
l The torque converter features a gradual slip lock up feature with electronic control of lock up and smooth
transition to the fully locked condition
l Torque converter lock up is available in 3rd, 4th and 5th gears
l EAT ECU controls shift program logic
l Connected to ECM via the CAN for system communications
l Diagnostics available from the EAT ECU via the ISO 9141 K Line
l Default mode if major faults occur.
The transmission comprises three main castings; the bell housing, the main casing and the extension case. These
items are bolted together to form the housing for the transmission components.
A single piece fluid pan is bolted to the lower face of the main case and secured with screws. The fluid pan is sealed
to the main case by a controlled compression gasket. Removal of the fluid pan allows access to the valve block and
solenoids. The fluid pan is fitted with a magnet which collects any metallic particles present in the fluid.
The fluid pan also houses a fluid filter which is non-serviceable. If the transmission fluid becomes contaminated or
after any procedure requiring the fluid to be drained, the filter must be replaced.
The bell housing provides protection for the torque converter. The torque converter is a complete assembly which also
contains the variable control lockup clutch. The torque converter also drives a vane type fluid pump via two drive
tangs. The fluid pump is located in the bell housing, behind the fluid pump cover. The fluid pump cover and the bell
housing are bolted together. The bell housing and fluid pump cover assembly is bolted to the main casing.
The main casing contains the following components:
l Input shaft
l Output shaft
l Valve block and solenoids
l Six multiplate drive clutches
l Three multiplate brake clutches
l Four free wheel, one way, sprag type clutches
l A planetary gearset assembly.
Draining and refilling the transmission is carried out via a drain plug, located in the sump of the transmission and a
refill/level plug located on the left hand side of the transmission. When checking the transmission fluid level the fluid
must be between 35°C and 45°C. Only Texaco ETL-7045E Automatic transmission fluid should be used for refilling /
topping up the transmission.

Do you know how to make the TCC lock in 3 and 4 ?

Last edited by miggit on 18th Sep 2014 9:56pm. Edited 1 time in total

just had a thought cross my mind, it didn't take long! , does anyone know of a larger transmission cooler?

I believe sonnax do an upgraded oil pump if that's any help ? 2011 Range Rover Vogue SE 4.4 TDV8

Previous cars :
2003 Range Rover Vogue TD6
1999 Discovery Td5 ES
1995 BMW M5 3.8 6 speed
1992 Range Rover 3.9 Efi Vogue
1992 BMW M5 3.8
1988 BMW 735i SE
1989 Ford Sierra XR4x4 2.9i
1981 Ford Fiesta Supersport

Though it's not exactly what you asked for, here is a little further info regarding issues with our beloved auto box ;

http://www.rangerovers.net/forum/6-range-r...hange.html

http://www.rangerovers.net/forum/6-range-r...odies.html

 2011 Range Rover Vogue SE 4.4 TDV8

Previous cars :
2003 Range Rover Vogue TD6
1999 Discovery Td5 ES
1995 BMW M5 3.8 6 speed
1992 Range Rover 3.9 Efi Vogue
1992 BMW M5 3.8
1988 BMW 735i SE
1989 Ford Sierra XR4x4 2.9i
1981 Ford Fiesta Supersport

Hi, I'm not sure that an upgraded pump will help, as the box will be under warranty. Plus I think that increasing the cooling area / efficiency, would be of more benefit than pushing the oil around quicker. I must confess that I have no knowledge of the oil coolers location, and the type of fittings for the connections, as to the practicality of fitting a larger cooler. I can only surmise that its at the front and I'll have to remove the bumper, deep joy!

At one time they used to be near the bottom part of the water radiator or at the front somewhere ? 2011 Range Rover Vogue SE 4.4 TDV8

Previous cars :
2003 Range Rover Vogue TD6
1999 Discovery Td5 ES
1995 BMW M5 3.8 6 speed
1992 Range Rover 3.9 Efi Vogue
1992 BMW M5 3.8
1988 BMW 735i SE
1989 Ford Sierra XR4x4 2.9i
1981 Ford Fiesta Supersport

Last edited by mjdronfield on 18th Sep 2014 8:42pm. Edited 1 time in total

The transmission oil cooler is fastened to the engine block beneath the alternator. It has an oil to water heat exchanger and receives cooling overall from the main radiator.
Cooler circled in red.

Thanks for those, I've seen the first one but not the second, however I was aware that the valve block has wear issues, and the rebuilder that I'm using assures me that he has a cure for that, and he will be increasing pressures in the box to stop clutch slippage. He also said that changing the oil every 12000 miles would go a long way to increasing the life of the box. not sure that it will be done with that regularity, but suffice it to say it will be be changed with greater frequency than Land Rover suggest!!!

Yes, just seen I was wrong. Just looked this up in RAVE it's part number 7

Click image to enlarge

Hi Steve, thanks for the photo, now I know what I'm up against! Obviously a larger cooler in the same place is not an option, but seeing as you have experience of a stripped front end, do you think it would be possible to add an air to oil cooler as well? Only I do know a very reasonable place near heathrow that dose all types of oil coolers and adaptors for silly money, also aeroquipe brake lines!

I don't see why not. Would have to be mounted in front of the radiator or intercooler though to get maximum cooling. The pipes from the gearbox would need extending as well.
Whether it is a good idea to have an air cooled transmission cooler, I'm not too sure.
The engine coolant to transmission cooler ensures that the transmission oil heats up pretty quickly along with the engine coolant. I also might have read somewhere, that this is more efficient than an air cooler.
RRPhil might be able to pass a better comment on this matter. He is the guru when it comes to transmissions.

Steve. 1968 Series IIA Pastel Green, nearly there project

Right I've been looking into the extra tranny cooler, and they do kits in different sizes, and they do list a 1/2" kit for a BMW. I was thinking of this and the addition of an oil stat to only open when the temp exceeds 80 or 92 deg C. I have also noticed that they do remote oil filter mounts, and was wondering if it would be beneficial to add one into the line as well. Because from what I can understand the 2 biggest killers of transmission are heat (that causes slip) and then dirt ( result of slip), and from what I can gather the filter on the GM 5L40E is not very good at removing the friction dust from the oil, something to do with being sealed for life. Which is rather ironic that the feature that makes the gearbox service free, is also the main reason the gearbox fails prematurely!

Wouldn't do any harm with another inline filter provided it is not too restrictive with flow rate. Heat is a big killer with auto transmission oils. I think if the motor detects a gearbox fluid over temp situation, it places the engine ecu into limit mode, stops it changing into top gear, therefore allowing the extra engine rpm, cooling fan, etc to aid cooling of the radiator fluid, which in turn should help the transmission fluid cool down. I also use an additive with the gearbox fluid, Lubegard Platinum, have used it for some years in the various Range Rover automatics I have had. Towing heavy twin axle caravans over the Simplon pass into Switzerland and through Austria, I have never had an overheat problem with them.
The sealed for life myth of automatic transmissions has been discounted these days. They were sealed for life 'till the life in them or the warranty expired, whichever came first.
A transmission oil and filter change every 30/40,000 miles should prolong the life considerably.
Be careful if you have the engine re-mapped or a tuning chip added. The GM gearbox is already at the limit of the engines power output as it is.

Steve. 1968 Series IIA Pastel Green, nearly there project

I wasn't considering an engine remap, I'm plenty happy with the power / mpg that I get at the moment, when i said eco tune, I meant the gearbox! As it lowers the lock up speed of the box, which should reduce slip, which should reduce gearbox wear. However it might screw things up when it comes to a heavy load on the tow bar

Open torque converters are fabulous at isolating driveline torsional vibration. If you lock up the torque converter at low engine speeds you completely bypass this. For that reason the torque converter LUC has an intermediate state called its ‘continuous slip’ mode where it is controlled to slip at around 3% yet can still damp out the vibration. It achieves this by modulating the clutch engagement pressure according to the engine output torque. So the converter is open at low engine speeds, it then switches to continuous slip mode at low-to-medium engine speeds and then only locks solid at medium-to-high engine speeds. Land Rover know very well that higher efficiency/improved fuel economy would result from locking up the LUC sooner, but the NVH & driveline durability consequences override this.

Phil