As far as I am concerned they don't really need a screwdriver slot as you will only be putting them on finger tight, one a little shorter seems like a good idea  Geoff

PS
Forget stamping or monogramming, my Range Rover doesn't say Holland and Holland or CoCo the Clown  Geoff

If you are up for mass production I would be in.
My only comment would be, do you really need two. I would have thought one would be adequate to act as a guide.
Although it's definitely awkward getting the wheel onto the first stud once it is on one I find it quite easy to rotate the wheel and push it onto the spigot and the other studs.
I would think the knurled section would be adequate without the need for a slot as well, a drop of light oil in the threads would see it going on and off ok.

Don't oil the threads unless you don't mind losing a wheel.

Just a thought, will these fit through the earlier smaller wheel nut holes?? and I think I'd only use one, so I'll go half's with David Pete
__________________________________________________
2014 L405 Autobiography SDV8 4.4 Loire Blue Ebony interior
2012 L322 Autobiography 5.0 Supercharged Ipanema Sand Sold
2011 L322 Vogue SE 4.4 TDV8 Baltic Blue. Sold
2002 L322 Vogue 4.4 V8 Epson Green (Fatty Offroader) Sold
-Click for Project Fatty off roader-

I've put oil on wheel stud threads for over 40 years and never had a wheel come of yet and don't anticipate it happening to be honest.

Happy to go halfs on a set Pete.

He has the earlier car, so unless he's put on the later wheels and made with those in mind, we should be good to go......

 2011 Range Rover Vogue SE 4.4 TDV8

Previous cars :
2003 Range Rover Vogue TD6
1999 Discovery Td5 ES
1995 BMW M5 3.8 6 speed
1992 Range Rover 3.9 Efi Vogue
1992 BMW M5 3.8
1988 BMW 735i SE
1989 Ford Sierra XR4x4 2.9i
1981 Ford Fiesta Supersport

I think I'd take a set. Depending on cost.

One short one is a good idea.

Rather than a screwdriver slot, perhaps a hole drilled through the side so you can slide a bar in and have a T handle?

Well chaps, wot can I say..
I have made the guide as close to the US dimensions as possible, with the exception of the grippy bit and the slanty bit and the smooth end. So as far as copy right goes, I'm guilty of making it round and I've copied the same thread that they used, but as I'm pretty sure that they ripped the thread size off of Land Rover, I'm not too worried Plus it was checked alone side a spare wheel nut I've got for my 2004 Hang Over!

As for the debate as to whether 1 or 2 guides are required, I must say that I am of the opinion that 10 will be fine, oops! sorry, that was the salesman in me coming out

I did wonder if 1 would suffice, I haven't actually had the time to try it on the car as yet, mainly due to the fact that I couldn't face dragging the trolley jack to the car, and it was Pi ng down with rain! But tomorrow is another day, and it's called 'it's not raining this morning' day, so an extensive test session is planned. And after I will be able to inform you of the results and give you it's 'N Cap' rating

I think that the second pin will make it easier to fit the first wheel nut, but after that it becomes redundant. There is a need for 2 if you have wheel bolts, but as the accountants at Land Rover have obviously been kept in the dark about that cost cutting exercise, I think we may be safe with 1. It all really hinges (no pun intended) on whether you have the strength to wiggle the wheel in to place and fit a nut, with just 1 pin.

A cunning plan is hatching here.... His and Hers sets ... that would increase my potential sales, and if I was to offer the Hers sets in Girly Pink, then all the Real Men would have to get the Blacked Combat finish version

And then we get to the lubricating bit, I think that I may have to enter in to an exclusive deal with a oil company, and specify that you use only there product as nothing else has the same properties. I can see my new FFRR, its lovely  Yesterday I couldn't spell Engineer... Today I are one!
Inventor of the 'Guide-o-Matic automatic wheel alignment tool'
Former long term L322 owner, Up/Down graded to a Classic Tractor!

T handle, now theres an idea, I will have to look into that  Yesterday I couldn't spell Engineer... Today I are one!
Inventor of the 'Guide-o-Matic automatic wheel alignment tool'
Former long term L322 owner, Up/Down graded to a Classic Tractor!

Dunno what you've been drinking mate, but I want a pint of it..... Pete
__________________________________________________
2014 L405 Autobiography SDV8 4.4 Loire Blue Ebony interior
2012 L322 Autobiography 5.0 Supercharged Ipanema Sand Sold
2011 L322 Vogue SE 4.4 TDV8 Baltic Blue. Sold
2002 L322 Vogue 4.4 V8 Epson Green (Fatty Offroader) Sold
-Click for Project Fatty off roader-

Well, I might have cocked up when machining the prototype, and picked up the wrong bottle, that would mean that that I've been cooling the work piece with shandy and swigging WD40  Yesterday I couldn't spell Engineer... Today I are one!
Inventor of the 'Guide-o-Matic automatic wheel alignment tool'
Former long term L322 owner, Up/Down graded to a Classic Tractor!

 Pete
__________________________________________________
2014 L405 Autobiography SDV8 4.4 Loire Blue Ebony interior
2012 L322 Autobiography 5.0 Supercharged Ipanema Sand Sold
2011 L322 Vogue SE 4.4 TDV8 Baltic Blue. Sold
2002 L322 Vogue 4.4 V8 Epson Green (Fatty Offroader) Sold
-Click for Project Fatty off roader-

Mmmmm WD40, smooth with a sweet nutty flavour and a strangely fish after taste  2008 MY Supercharged
Rimini Red / Jet
four zone climate
remote park heater
and no ugly kid windows.
magnus satis quod turpis satis

That looks great, I think one would work well enough. Love the T-bar idea, better than the slot IMHO. Please put me on the list for one. I just wish I had my lathe up and running (no space to do that here) otherwise I could do it myself .

On lubing the threads, I have been using Shell Rhodina II for a few decades now and never had an issue with a wheel coming of. Better, they are much easier to remove when in the pXssing rain by the side of the road at night. I also put a thin thin layer on the conical surface of the nut/bolt to eliminate crevice corrosion issues as well as on the hub face. All due to experience over the years with wheels getting stuck when they need to come of. And kicking a car tyre of a car on a jack by the side of the road just doesn't sound like a smart thing to me !!! The trick is to tighten the nuts/bolts to spec plus a little bit more. The lubricated surfaces actually make the tightening of the nuts/bolts better than rusty/dry surfaces. That is why head bolts/nuts are to be tightened with oil on the threads.

I also like the gardening mat idea even if it is just for comfortable kneeling.

And Craigs idea using your feet is one I used before.

The idea of a little trolley seems OK for a garage / flat surface type environment but may not always work by the roadside. MY 2010 5.0 SC Galway green and sand interior!!
Have the Faultmate MSV2 Extreme to be tinkering with the settings etc. !!