What sort of figures should i expect to see for voltage drop and current draw after turning off the vehicle (10MY 3.6) and leaving it for 20mins?

12.55v and 0.002A draw mine shows. Cheers

James

When I had a problem with my 2010 TDV8 3.6 before the factory recall Q159 corrected the software problem, the initial 'dark current' immediately after engine shut-down was 5 (FIVE!) Amps. It took over 25 minutes to get down to what I was told was the 'normal' battery drain of between 12 to 20 milliamps.

I would have thought that anything below 30 milliamps was acceptable - that is the sort of number I saw on my Jag and that had far less electronics to keep happy.

12.55V is pretty reasonable for the situation you describe. I would have expected 12.6-12.8V after a run but it really depends on the accuracy of the voltmeter your were using. At worst it would indicate slight deterioration of the battery.
A battery drain of 2mA after 20minutes is bordering on the miraculous, nothing at all to worry about.
A lot of people on here would be very happy with that sort of reading.

thank you guys.

just asking as (new battery fitted) and vehicle has had the software update.

it starts fine if left for upto 5 days (not tried longer)

but if i run the timed climate for 10mins prior to a journey, even after only being left for 10hrs. it wont start off own battery.

i am thinking fan issue with cabin heat, hence my other post of FSR. Cheers

James

Is the new battery an agm or standard lead acid? FFRR MY06 facelift With TDV8 Alloys Zeros/ATR's
Mantec Sump Guard, Rigid Load liner, MY10 BT upgrade.

errmmm, dont know, its a wet battery?

yesterday after not starting for 3 days, it had 12.2v showing and 2mA draw.

then wouldnt start!


Dash shows 'cold start' screen it then turns over strongly for 3 turns then nothing.

Push button again, you get the same, 3 turns then stops. if you continue it will turn over slower and slower on subsequent tries as would be expected.

Battery seems to have the right level for the initial start attempts.

Could it be linked to the 'cold start' procedure and something there placing a heavy load on the battery? glow plugs or even the S/M itself taking too much out?

Is turning over for the 3 and then stopping std on the button ignition vehicles? (ie to stop you over cranking it?) Cheers

James

If your battery is down to 12.2V after 3 days with only a 2mA drain showing it tends to suggest your battery is draining internally ie it's past it's best irrespective of age.
Having said that it should still start ok with 12.2V From what you describe I think you may have an additional problem causing the engine not to start.
I would start by getting the battery tested, if nothing else but to eliminate it as a problem.

thanks for the reply, i think i have a greater issue, will start another thread on it. Cheers

James

nicedayforit wrote:

If your battery is down to 12.2V after 3 days with only a 2mA drain showing it tends to suggest your battery is draining internally

Each time the vehicle wakes up from sleep, it initially draws around 7 amps. it will wind itself down again usually about 15 - 20 minutes until it goes back into sleep mode.
Three times each day for three days is a bit of a drain for even a good battery.

Steve. 1968 Series IIA Pastel Green, nearly there project

i am hoping its ok, its only 2mths old! Cheers

James

Agree with vaz above.
It's not the locking / unlocking that causes a problem it's the fact that all the ecu's are on for up to 20mins until the car goes to sleep again.
Unlocking / locking 3 times a day over a period of days without running the engine is not to be recommended and could well be the reason for the battery to be down on voltage.
A Ctek battery charger is worth its weight in gold in these circumstances.