I have a powersharp on my ms211 and for what it is, it's good. Chain is more aggressive than a standard one so for fine pruning/detail work? hmm
But general choppery things its pukka, as it is for hoofing out the roots around a stump  2007 Vogue TDV8 with 255/55/20's fitted

Well an update on my chainsaw usage, now have a sideline selling logs to the locals ' fully seasoned hardwood'. and everyone loves it, so thats good! Husqvarna (£500) has been a piece of , the screwfix Titan at £90 has been a revelation and now found a Timberpro 58cc (£80),.... back to JLR reliability/price point

Wish I'd seen this earlier...

I've not only done a bit of felling and rope work in my time, but I also used to repair power tools... I think that I can honestly say you wont beat a Stihl... except possibly on price They are not the cheapest, but that is because they are very well made and spare parts availability is fantastic. Sach Dolmar / Makita are a very close second. And then there are always a few makes that will fair better than the rest, but there really isn't much between them... except price

Yes a Stihl is like Range Rover money... but you get Range Rover like back up too.. the parts are available all over the world

Sharpening of chains... when your in a field you can't beat a file for ease.... chain grinders are very good for getting all the teeth the same size.. but if you've damaged one tooth more than the others, you can end up removing more than needed to get the whole thing sharp... reducing the chain life in the process... and then you still have to set the rakers by hand... Yesterday I couldn't spell Engineer... Today I are one!
Inventor of the 'Guide-o-Matic automatic wheel alignment tool'
Former long term L322 owner, Up/Down graded to a Classic Tractor!

Miggit.
I agree about Stihl - I have two vans full of their tools. What I will say, however, though is that spare parts availibility is not what it was, largely to dealers not holding as much stock, and cost of parts is horrendous compared to say five years ago.

Interestingly, for logging - I would say that if they are medium sized you could use an Oregon powersharp bar and chain. Look them up. You don't get the quality of cut you'd get with a standard chain but they rip through like hell and take 3.5 seconds to sharpen. I have an MS211 fitted with one - we use it for grubbing roots/stumps out - the chain isn't immediately killed by soil/pebbles, and remember the 3.5 seconds to re-sharpen. Will sharpen about 20 times or thereabouts. Was in the hire shop today picking up a new powersharp chain and matey showed me an Oregon 36v li-ion saw which has powersharp built in. It apparently has plenty of to get through some work, and can be used at 8am sunday morning! 2007 Vogue TDV8 with 255/55/20's fitted

Stihl for me too, they are expensive but I would say worth it, especially if you are doing larger/harder timber. With advancing years and wearing joints I have found using tongs and hookaroon/pickaroon well worthwhile, plus an (Oregon) cant lever for turning logs. Only Range Rovers since 1988

just bought a predator x 28

stump grinder brill bit of kit eats them stumps !

That looks more like something that Bomb Disposal would use

It been 20 odd years since I was playing Tarzan.. there have been a lot of advances since then... Big Yellow Chippers were the ticket then... And if you were doing root work then the only chain to use were the TCT Rescue chains... they would go through just about anything, but were a PITA to get sharpened

I've got a Stihl 009 (predecessor to the 020) and a couple of Pioneer 650's



.404 link chain and 32"bar.... lets just say it's when the saw is blunt and at just over 100cc's is a bit of a pig to start.. but when it gets going there isn't a lot that will touch it

(Oh and that isn't mine was easier to get a pic from the web )

Admin note: this post has had its images recovered from a money grabbing photo hosting site and reinstated  Yesterday I couldn't spell Engineer... Today I are one!
Inventor of the 'Guide-o-Matic automatic wheel alignment tool'
Former long term L322 owner, Up/Down graded to a Classic Tractor!

chipper is on the list to buy next cant beet the right tools for the job

chippers rock!!

Have found Orange plant great for hiring them. Cant justify buying one, but hiring one with a nice sharp blade and a 6" intake will get rid of most small-medium sized trees whole...... depends if you need logs  There is nothing that can't be fixed with a hammer😜😜
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Well maybe you knowledgeable chaps can help me on this one! Husqvarna was great for 6 months then started to bog down when cutting, I go through a new chain per week and always sharpen, change fuel filter regularily etc. Anyway sent it back to Husky dealer as its under warranty. They called to say I had been running it neat?!? Eh, no I havent as I am anal about 50:1 mix, OK well you have been using the wrong 2 stroke oil.

Apparently I should only use Husqvarna or some Stihl 2 stroke in these new low emission saws, is this correct? I have been using 2 stroke oil from the local Esso station

Thanks in advance as saw is currently sub judice

2 stroke oil is 2 stroke oil, it comes in 2 forms, mineral and synthetic.. I suspect that you've been using mineral instead of the synthetic type, which I believe the Stihl formula is, but that shouldn't make a difference to the running of the saw. I believe that synthetic is slightly better for the environment. Mineral oil tends to clog up the exhaust with unburnt deposits, that have to be cleaned... usually soaking them in petrol, and sometimes a match as well

From what your saying it sounds like the liner has worn through on the cylinder... you've shagged it Which isn't a very good advert for Husqvarna.. I suspect that it was DIY rated, and it sounds like you've given it an industrial lifestyle... Bit like giving a Black and Decker tool to a tradesman and wondering why it didn't last more than a few months

But I would say that running a 2 stroke engine without any oil will normally do more than knock the performance.. it usually ends up in a totally seized engine, the first thing that happens is the rings stick to the bore and you end up with bits of engine coming out the exhaust I hate to say it, but I think you'll have a fight on your hands.. but in your favour it's less than a year old, so should still be covered under the consumer rights act, and it's still running... which if there was no oil in the fuel it wouldn't be..

The main reason that tree surgeons use Stihl is they will run all day, every day... but they come with a price tag to reflect this... and Stihl have 2 product lines.. DIY and Professional. Yesterday I couldn't spell Engineer... Today I are one!
Inventor of the 'Guide-o-Matic automatic wheel alignment tool'
Former long term L322 owner, Up/Down graded to a Classic Tractor!

Actually miggit, I'm going to disagree with you.

I always run my Stihl machines on Stihl 2 stroke, been using the new blue stuff for a couple of years now.
My dealer won't sell me their own brand stuff - solely to protect me (they make more margin on their own stuff).
I also have a pal who works in Stihl technical who (because he is a pal) tells me the same thing - use our oil - we see loads of warranty stuff rejected, can tell when its not our oil (i have no idea how!).

To back that up - three years ago a pal who is a competitor, and I, bought a pair of blowers at the same time, same models (BR600 Magnums). We run similar businesses, similar use profiles and hours' on the machines. He is good with his tools, like me, services regularly, genuine spares that sort of thing. He and I both mix up our own 2# batches to avoid any staff cockups. Both his machines, run from day 1 on non-Stihl oil, are knackered and replaced.

Mine are still running strong. I actually prefer the older red oil, can't really quantify why though. They do say that the blue bio gives improved cold starting, Meh! What I will say, definitively, is that the 4 mix engines are proper sensitive to a too-rich mix, hence me doing it not my lads!


Rosco - sorry to hear your woes - which model saw is it? 2007 Vogue TDV8 with 255/55/20's fitted

I don't know about Husqvarna, but have looked at the manual for one of my Stihls (044) and it says it needs "quality two stroke engine oil with the classification TC". There is a further requirement if your the saw has a catalytic converter (mine doesn't). They go on to say "Do not use BIA or TCW (two stroke water cooled) mix oils!" (note the exclamation mark).

That may be your problem. The saws get little cooling from air flow and of course are air cooled and, unlike a motorcycle etc are apt to run on idle and then full throttle and back again, not the mix of loads one would have in driving, so different characteristics.

I've always used Stihl red oil and have not had problems. Saws do get clogged up internally from time to time, in places that the user cannot see without dismantling the saw, but normal servicing and Stihl dealer repairs should solve that.

If you are doing a lot of sawing I would say you would be better with something from the Stihl professional range. They are what I see 'proper' tree surgeons using, they are designed to be used all the time and keep going subject to maintenance. A friend who buys wood in 20 ton loads of trunks and then saws and splits it had a Husqvarna but changed to Stihl after he saw mine. I can't remember when I got the 044, but it is my oldest saw and the manual is dated 1995 so it will be after that, but before 2000 I think. It has needed a few repairs and is serviced every now and again, but is going fine.

I'd say that if your manual says what sort of oil to use and what not to use (like mine) than if you have used the wrong oil the problem would not be covered by warranty, it would be outside the range of "normal misuse" that manufacturers have to accept. Only Range Rovers since 1988

This isn't helping poor Rosco.....

I think that a good read of the husqvarna manual is needed, just to make sure that there isn't anything about oil type, other than 2 stroke........ Yesterday I couldn't spell Engineer... Today I are one!
Inventor of the 'Guide-o-Matic automatic wheel alignment tool'
Former long term L322 owner, Up/Down graded to a Classic Tractor!

Thanks guys, sort of confirms what Husqvarna are saying, still awaiting outcome of their finding, piston is not scored so hopefully it is not toast.

Johnnyboy - its a Husqvarna 450

Cheers