I've just replaced the water pump on my FF & came to tensioning the belt - I don't get it

Has anyone got any pointers? I'm following the workshop manual service procedures and it doesn't seem to put any tension on the belt when I turn the plated nut.

I'm using a bulky adjustable spanner - does a proper 17mm help? is the a knack to it? If I can't get tension on it is the spring done?

Think you have the belt on wrong, the tensioner is at full tension when at rest, you wind it back to fit the belt then release it and it tensions the belt...  Pete
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2014 L405 Autobiography SDV8 4.4 Loire Blue Ebony interior
2012 L322 Autobiography 5.0 Supercharged Ipanema Sand Sold
2011 L322 Vogue SE 4.4 TDV8 Baltic Blue. Sold
2002 L322 Vogue 4.4 V8 Epson Green (Fatty Offroader) Sold
-Click for Project Fatty off roader-

Ahh I see

Thank you Pete

So both bolts are undone and there is no tension- what am I doing wrong??

http://www.justanswer.com/car/1u5pa-need-r...ngine.html

Thank you Ding, I've got that picture- I'm trying to figure out how the tensioner behaves and if I need to get a new one.

When the securing nuts are undone should you be able to move the wheels tension and intentioned really easily or does it spring open and tight??

Aaaar.. so you've undone it, you have to "recharge" it then, virtually impossible to describe... see these....









Admin note: this post has had its images recovered from a money grabbing photo hosting site and reinstated  Pete
__________________________________________________
2014 L405 Autobiography SDV8 4.4 Loire Blue Ebony interior
2012 L322 Autobiography 5.0 Supercharged Ipanema Sand Sold
2011 L322 Vogue SE 4.4 TDV8 Baltic Blue. Sold
2002 L322 Vogue 4.4 V8 Epson Green (Fatty Offroader) Sold
-Click for Project Fatty off roader-

Those are the pages I've been working off buddy, I've undone everything but when I go to do the refit there is tons of play when I turn the 17mm anti clockwise - is the hydraulic spring meant to bounce back/provide resistance?

I've now removed the tensioning assembly and tried to put all of my weight onto the spring to compress it but there is no compression - is it that strong or do I need to fit a new one?

I spoke to LR Dealer and they said £140 for the spring - BMW do one for the M62 @ £63

I really appreciate your ongoing patience on this one!!!

Loosen lock nut yellow 13mm (IIRC)
Loosen adjusting nut blue 13mm(IIRC)
Put 17mm socket on red nut and turn it against the spring, clockwise (again IIRC) it is pretty hard to turn, it will only go one way, with it under tension tighten adjusting nut blue...

It's a pain in the bum because you have to keep both sockets in place, tighten the red one with one hand whilst tightening the blue one as well...

Then when done re-tighten the yellow one to lock it off...

This is a new one I bought to use the pulleys as the bearings had gone, think I paid about £30 for it, there is no way you will compress that little strut with your hands....



Good luck... :thumbsup:

Admin note: this post has had its images recovered from a money grabbing photo hosting site and reinstated  Pete
__________________________________________________
2014 L405 Autobiography SDV8 4.4 Loire Blue Ebony interior
2012 L322 Autobiography 5.0 Supercharged Ipanema Sand Sold
2011 L322 Vogue SE 4.4 TDV8 Baltic Blue. Sold
2002 L322 Vogue 4.4 V8 Epson Green (Fatty Offroader) Sold
-Click for Project Fatty off roader-

Got that - but I get to the limit of the groove for the blue bolt & it therefore doesn't tighten the belt?

You have the belt routed wrong then, or it's the wrong belt....  Pete
__________________________________________________
2014 L405 Autobiography SDV8 4.4 Loire Blue Ebony interior
2012 L322 Autobiography 5.0 Supercharged Ipanema Sand Sold
2011 L322 Vogue SE 4.4 TDV8 Baltic Blue. Sold
2002 L322 Vogue 4.4 V8 Epson Green (Fatty Offroader) Sold
-Click for Project Fatty off roader-

So belt tensioned all good etc etc

Yesterday we took it out and all ran just fine.

On the way home the temp went up to 120 (had OBD plugged in) & the rad was around 35??

It pushed water through the header cap.

Sat on the side of the road waited and let it cool- topped up and headed home.

I rationalised it must be the thermostat gone- i did have it out when swapping the water pump and tested it under hot kettle and it didn't open.

So last night reserved one at Euro parts, picked up some more deionised water and a new header cap.

Swapped everything out today- took it for a run & engine temp moved up to around 100deg and rad temperature would fluctuate between 45 & 75 depending. Watching the engine temp I could see it rising and fallin indicating the stat was working.

Not long and the temp starts to creep up again and I was right by my mums so pulled up on their sloped driveway. Set the header higher than the gas vaporiser, opened the bonnet and coolant was being pushed out of the cap.

Left to cool for a few hours and popped the hood to check it all out.

Opened the cap and a small explosion A second long like a huge air bubble was being released

Filled up, took time to squeeze hoses and continued to fill and bleed with the engine running. With some revs the level
In the header dropped, take off the revs and the level rises again. Basically gave it a really good fill and kept bleeding through.

Took it home from mums and drove at all sorts of speeds, Mrs is away so went through gah McDonald's drive through and left idling whilst I sat and ate my meal- temps all good eng @100, rad swinging 45-80 all good.

Go for a drive home from there all good- on the home straight decide to give it a really good push by opening up the vanos for a short burst, drop back down to crusising speed and engine temp starts to climb- rad temp starts to fall

Limp into my drive with coolant spewing from my header.

Any suggestions on what it might be? We recently had the head gaskets replaced at an engineering firm and I'm
Loathed to think it may be that again.

Do a sniff test to see if there are exhaust gases in the coolant that will tell you if the head gasket has gone - you can buy the kit on fleabay or go to a local garage. I had a similar thing on a p38 and it was the heater matrix drawing air into the system hope this help a bit