Hi, managed to trace my top end oil leak turns out it was actually from the oil filter housing with oil getting past the filter oil seal.

See pictures below, left seal is the one I took out, only been in the car 4 weeks, the right seal the one just out of the box.

I never noticed the seal "ovaling" before, but I'll be checking back regularly. Never had this happen in years of usinf Mann filters.

Anyone seen this before, is the Mahle brand tainted ?

Andy

Click image to enlarge

Click image to enlarge

Has it been over-tightened or torqued when hot? 2015 Range Rover Autobiography 4.4 SDV8

Hi, Not that I know of, same as always. Torque is mentioned on the cover, can't recall off the top of my head, 25nM if I seem to remember, something like that.

Used a small torque wrench so wouldn't overtighten it, engine would have been warm to change the oil but not hot to scold nor cold.

At first I thought the casing may be cracked causing the leak but I decided I'd change the seal anyway as a precaution, that's when I noticed the ovaling.

Rubber is still very soft, so it's not hardened, it's just mis-shapen.

I think the filters came from Britpart, I'll go back to Mann & Crossland, never had this problem before and I don't want to risk it so when the new ones arrive this is going in the bin.

Andy Fuji White 2012 4.4 TDV8 Westmiinster

Was it a Britpart filter and seal or a Mahle filter and seal? Mahle are the OEM supplier for many brands, so unless it's been done up too tightly, I can't see their parts failing. Britpart/Borg & Beck and similar, I have found to be of inferior quality. 2015 Range Rover Autobiography 4.4 SDV8

Was the o ring sufficiently lubricated when fitted? If fitted dry it would cause distortion/damage when tightened.

Hi, I bought them from John Craddock Ltd, was supposed to be a Britpart part but what actually arrived was Mahle, see below. It's the right part, just dubious quality.

Click image to enlarge

I've fitted several Mahle to mine without any leaking.

Could just be a one off I guess Fuji White 2012 4.4 TDV8 Westmiinster

Mahle are OE for the 2.7, Mann are OE for 3.0, and that's how we use them

Never had an issue with either. Don't use Crossland though, that's just asking for trouble

Mahle are top quality filters and OEM for many major automotive manufacturers.

Very odd. Kev

2014 L405 RR Vogue SE 4.4 SDV8 in Corris Grey
2010 L320 RRS HSE 3.0 TDV6 in Stornoway Grey

I've used nothing but Mahle filters for years in the cartridge type filters on various cars I've owned, and never had any leaks from any of them except when I forgot to change the O-ring one time. 2012 (L322) 4.4TDV8 Vogue SE, RSE, Fuji White over Arabica.
Previous V8s: BMW 645Ci, P38 4.6, P38 4.0, Merc CL500
Previous others: Honda x1, Volvo x7, Rover x6, BMW x6, Ford x1, Mercedes x2, Skoda x3, VW x2, Renault x2, Citroen x1, Mazda x3, Nissan x1, Audi x3, Kia x1, Fiat x4, Subaru x3, Austin x2, Triumph x2, Jeep x2, Hyundai x2, Lexus x1, Mitsubishi x1, Saab x2... and some others I've forgotten!

AndyRoo wrote:

Hi, I bought them from John Craddock Ltd, was supposed to be a Britpart part but what actually arrived was Mahle, see below. It's the right part, just dubious quality.

Click image to enlarge

Andy

Dtech wrote:

Was the o ring sufficiently lubricated when fitted? If fitted dry it would cause distortion/damage when tightened.

I think it's for other car adaptations that use the same filter element. My BMW did and the small seals were from a prong attachment that went deeper inside the engine.

I couldn't see anywhere they might be used in the RR.

Andy Fuji White 2012 4.4 TDV8 Westmiinster

Thanks Andy.

I notice that RAVE shows a sealing ring at the bottom of the centre "spigot" and states "11. Lubricate new 'O' ring and sealing ring with engine oil and fit to cap and centre spindle.".

However, that ring looks to be at the top of the spigot and the sealing ring that came with the oil filter is a smallish (about 1/2") hard plastic washer. I'd expect that seal at the top to be an O-ring.



Today I pulled the new filter out and oiled the O-ring. I didn't try removing the centre spigot to see if there was sealing ring at the bottom. Maybe next time.

When undoing the cap, it was tight. After oiling the O-ring, the cap screwed in relatively easily. I used my tension wrench to tighten it to 25Nm - that figure is embossed on the cap BTW. Luckily I had a 36mm socket in my 3/4" drive socket set and a 1/2"-3/4" adapter for my tension wrench. Ron B. VK2OTC
2004 L322 V8 Auto
2007 Yamaha XJR1300
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