That's interesting Fisha.

My Indy just pointed out that my pipes were beginning to rust (pretty shocking on such a young car, I think) and that I should prepare myself for a (another) huge bill since it is a massive job to replace them.

Sounds like I need a second opinion. 2010 4.4 TDV8 Vogue SE

This is what I dont get with Land Rover, premium product, top dollar price and second rate materials. I have been replacing lots of fasteners on mine for stainless steel, mud flaps, grill fixings, rear bumper fixings etc. Its costs literally pence to do and makes a massive difference. Why are they not using the likes of kunifer 10 on brake pipes? It's madness and so annoying. BMW i3 Electric Car
2012 Full Fat RR 4.4 TDV8 (now gone)
2006 VW Touareg 3.0 TDi V6

Its not really a mega massive job. If you remove the daft mud catching protector plate that runs inside of the sill on the passenger side, and the rear passenger wheel, you can basically see / access all of the pipework.

Others will speak about using the pre-formed pipe, but with the above parts removed. I cut the existing pipes on the under the sill near to the front, and joined the new pipes from there.

Running the pipe across the top of the axle from one side to the other was easy enough, there is a few inches of space to do this, and you can reach in and clip the new pipe back into the clips that held the old one.

The only fiddly bit was routing the pipes around the chassis rail behind the fuel tank cover, but there is a hatch for the fuel filter which gives you access to direct the pipe the right way. As I say, with the under sill cover and rear wheel off, you should be able to see and follow the pipework to give you an idea of what I'm talking about.

A decent garage should be able to re-do brake pipes. A local garage that MOT'd mine after I'd done complimented me on the work. V8 or else ...

Just to follow up on this.

So as I'm currently renovating a house against tight timescales, I very gingerly drove it to the garage in the village.

On removing all the covers, one of the front to rear pipes had burst apart, the other had holed

Replaced both with copper.

At first seemed OK, but on more testing when i got home, with the engine running, pressing hard on the brake pedal and it slowly sinks. So I'll be going back tomorrow, guessing a dodgy flare, loose union, loose bleed nipple. 2004 Vogue TD6 - Remapped
2008 Porsche Cayenne S
1998 Lotus Elise

As a precaution I would suggest taking each of the rear wheels off and looking at the condition of the brake pipe that crosses to width of the car between the two rear wheels. It's even more exposed than the two pipes you have replaced and is a known failure problem.

There would be fluid on the floor if there was a leak!

IMMSMC even with the engine running the pedal does start moving down after a while.

Alternatively, there is possibly still some air in the system somewhere, most likely the ABS modulator, which may need some discombobulating to get all the air out. Myself and other have had success with this by using the HDC on a hill to activate the ABS. .
Experience is the only genuine knowledge, but as time passes, I have forgotten more than I can remember
Volvo V70 P2 2006 2.4 Petrol 170bhp Estate SE
MG Midget Mk1 1962

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