Had this problem happen twice in the last fortnight, car is my daily driver and used every day with multiple starts a day, and more at weekends. Sorry for long post but trying to give the context of issue. I also had a new battery fitted 1 year ago.

Got in my car 2 weeks ago and drove for 1h round the motorway, stopping up at a friends house. Left car for 1h, got back in and pressed start button, all interior electrics came on (i.e. dash and radio) but car wouldn't turn over (made a little tick tick noise) - called out recovery guys and they but a booster on battery terminals and it fired up first time no problems. All I noticed that was odd in failed start was the break pedal you need to press to start felt rock hard, normally it depresses with some softness in it when you are attempting to start car.

Car started fine first time every time after that for a couple of weeks, no battery issues to report or hesitation in starting (though oddly the forward alert tuned itself off and won't stay on and the drivers seat won't go up/down now, but will go up down to stored 1/2/3 seat positions)

Had been out all day on Saturday doing 200 miles with multiple starts and pulled up at same friends house in evening, car again refused to start and again noticed the hard brake pedal on starting - put my own battery booster on and again fired up no problems. Started fine since then with no further issue.

The battery is storing charge, it worked fine for a couple of weeks, the recovery guys put a meter on it and said looked like the alternator was working ok.

I'm wondering what could be the cause, is the hard brake a clue ? I'm thinking its some ECU giving a rogue setting and preventing the car from attempting a start and this somehow gets overridden when the booster is on the battery, but I'm out my comfort zone and not that conversant in such things.

Any experts here who could point me to even the possible problem area (avoid my friends house which is the Bermuda triangle for Range Rovers isn't helpful !) ?

Last edited by gotters on 28th Jan 2019 5:56pm. Edited 3 times in total

the L322 has different engines and models so if you fill in your car profile then it will be easier for somebody to help with your problem...

mine has started to get a hard brake pedal after being left for a few days, there is a microswitch on the pedal, if you press it harder so that the brake lights come on and it still doesnt start then that should discount the idea that the pedal is the issue, if it does start though it could be something to do with the pedal switch.

as you have a button start I'm assuming that you have a 2010-> probably a 4.4tdv8 but im guessing so some car info would be good as Stan says.

If it is the 4.4 then there are some known starter related issues with that, not really common but they are out there.  There is nothing that can't be fixed with a hammer😜😜
FFRR 4.4 SDV8 Autobiography Santorini Black.
Fiat 500x 1.4 multiair Lounge 2015
2010 LR D4 Commercial 2.7 TDV6

was so intent typing up the issue forgot to put my car details in

rectified now

don't think its the pedal switch as the lights come on and when the starting failure occurs the pedal goes rock hard so you can't press down at all.

I think the pedal is some knock on effect from a different electrical issue.

thanks

Afaik there is no connection between the starting circuit and the brake pedal apart from the micro switch. So like mine the pedal is going hard, but possibly too hard to press significantly in yours. There is an interlock which won’t allow the car to start unless the pedal is depressed, the only way the car knows if you’ve got your foot on the pedal is the pedal switch, so if you can’t press the pedal enough, the car doesn’t know you are pushing it, and it won’t start. As you say yours is too hard to press when the starting issue occurs I would check that first.

The thing making the pedal hard is the bleed off of vacuum in the brake Servo afaik. There is nothing that can't be fixed with a hammer😜😜
FFRR 4.4 SDV8 Autobiography Santorini Black.
Fiat 500x 1.4 multiair Lounge 2015
2010 LR D4 Commercial 2.7 TDV6

thanks for the reply - interesting

makes me wonder how multiple starts won't happen when the problem occurs (as in I turn off car, lock it, and try again) but the second I put the booster on the battery it all fires up perfectly, how would the battery booster release a brake microswitch ?

Do you get the solenoid click?

If this is the case it could be that the starter motor solenoid contacts are failing. Several people on here have had the same problem, including me.

Only resolution that I know of so far is a new starter motor.

yes, do get a quite faint tick tick tick when I hold the start button down and it won't start.

both times it's done it though the battery booster made it jump into life straight away on the next attempt, that isn't definitive that its a cure but would a wonky starter motor be 'cured' by putting a jump starter on the battery - I'm asking as don't know and trying to narrow things down as these intermittent issues a to track down.

First things first.

Check the battery terminals are tight loosen them off a little, tap them down, then re-tighten There is nothing that can't be fixed with a hammer😜😜
FFRR 4.4 SDV8 Autobiography Santorini Black.
Fiat 500x 1.4 multiair Lounge 2015
2010 LR D4 Commercial 2.7 TDV6

I had exactly the same problem, click from the solenoid, connect the jump pack and it would start ok. Even leaving it whilst waiting for the breakdown man to arrive enabled it to start.

No rhyme or reason for it, On both vehicles that I’ve had this happen to, it was tracked it down to a failing starter motor. Or more specifically the solenoid contacts.

I have read threads that say you can get the solenoid rebuilt with heavy duty contacts.

thanks @millerj90

always interesting and valuable to hear from somebody with what sounds the same issue.

I have the same issue from time to time, looks like there is a linkage to the brake system here.

I say that as I managed to get it started by applying more pressure (pedal moved down further). I also managed to get it started by holding down/pressing the button first and then applying pressure on pedal.

I feel it has to do with the a break sensor somewhere, will bleed system and see. Would love to hear from OP.

Note:
I have a new Starter, alternator, start stop switch etc

Also, battery drain occurs due to repeated cranking SOLD | Tuned MY 2011.5 Range Rover Autobiography 4.4 TDV8 Orkney Grey | e-diff | ACC

New Toy: Unimog U1550L/37
New : G350D

The only "sensor" is the brake light switch above the brake pedal which requires the pedal to be depressed far enough to operate the switch, noting that the switch itself could be faulty. If the vacuum assist has been depleted then the pedal may need to be pushed quite hard to move the pedal far enough away from the switch plunger.

I hope thats all it is. Have a new switch coming today, will pull the old one apart and have a look. SOLD | Tuned MY 2011.5 Range Rover Autobiography 4.4 TDV8 Orkney Grey | e-diff | ACC

New Toy: Unimog U1550L/37
New : G350D

I carry a spare switch after the problematic D3/D4 switch, although the L322 switch doesn't appear to fail much at all.