Hi all,

I wanted to share my thoughts on what to do with my P38, looking for some suggestions and or to see if anyone here would be interested in buying her. A pre-sale discussion.

I don’t really view the sale of this P38 as an ordinary one. And my desire to sell is not for the financial gain. The sale is more to see her being used properly or put to better use to help other appreciating P38s.

She is a 1997 LHD 2.5 DSE auto, 254,000 KMs (~160,000 miles) on the clock. Epsom green metallic with full tan leather interior - tan carpets. Spanish registered and taxed. Not currently ITV’d (the Spanish equivalent of the U.Ks MOT) I realised recently since acquiring our ‘12 L322 we simply do not use the P38, for anything and she’s been sat and only occasionally take out over our land etc. And I hate that, hate cars not being used. But, as we are restoring an old Spanish house I need to be realistic as to when I will get around to restoring her.

Being a southern-Spanish car there is 100% no rust or rot anywhere to be seen. Either on the chassis/underside or body. She is in better condition corrosion-wise than our 2012 FFRR… I am not joking.

I think she would make the perfect basis for either a light restoration in her current LHD set up. or to form the basis for another P38 restoration. For example, her chassis and body could be used on an RHD P38…? What better basis to use and to start from? Could actually be far more economical to use than restore a rusty P38s running gear.

Bad bits or, honest description of condition:

- A/C (climate control) does not work: did, but needs a regas/leak-test in the very least.
- Paint is very sun-damaged, peeling, faded and white in places. Some small signs of hail damage - but virtually unnoticeable.
- No prior service history records, only items I have done and logged.
- All external plastics are equally ‘dry’ and in places brittle.
- Oil sump gasket leaks, not terrible but its leaking (I’ve had a go at fixing it twice...genuine and OEM gaskets - think it’s me!)
- Oil filter housing block gasket is leaking a bit, not terrible.
- I do not think the heated seats work - does not get cold enough here for them!
- Front and rear differentials are leaking around the drain plus holes. I replaced the fluids in Dec ‘17 and they’ve dripped since! So my bad. (I have replacement plus & fluid)
- Dent/scrape on one of the rear wheel arches - the only real sign of external damage.
- The front bumper is a little tatty, one hole to one of the corners.
- Suspension air bags look a little worn. But work fine.
- Gearbox does leak oil - not much and I can’t see from where but works fine. I did to an oil change ~year or so ago.
- Tyres are ‘ok’ two are showing some signs of age i.e cracking. But all hold air.


Good points:

- 100% rust free! All parts of the car, chassis, axles, brakes, wheels, hubs, exhaust system, etc it’s astonishing. I cannot reiterate that enough.
- Within the last 4 years, I have fitted: new prop, alternator, viscous fan, thermostat, the original dashboard was very sun-damaged/warped - replaced with a used northern-European one in near-mint condition. New automatic gearbox oil cooler & lines. New PS hoses.
- EAS works perfectly, I actually refurbished the valve block (all o-rings replaced & compressor piston seal(s) etc) as a project back in July and she’s held air since. Even when being stationary for 2 months or so. Raises and lowers very well and quickly.
- Central locking works fine. Only one key, but the key is ~2 years old from LR here in Spain and is ‘key #2’ We have the original but its pretty bust.
- Replacement bonnet & grill in matching colours (originals were vandal damaged, someone tried to yank it open)
- All electrics work. Lights, horn, mirrors, windows and locks.
- No dashboard light/waning lights on - all normal dash lights work though.
- Original LR 18” ‘Triple Sport’ alloys - lovely condition, almost spotless.
- Parcel shelf present & all tools.
- All glass good (non-sunroof model)
- I removed the locking wheel nuts & replaced with standard original LR bolts.
- Jack, tools and spare tyres present.
- Transfer box, low range all seem to work fine - not really ever used them though.
- ‘Emergency EAS’ bypass valve kit fitted (used before I did the valve block refurbishment - very handy to have)
- Drives well, no clunks, bangs or knockin noises. Gears change up and down smoothly. The engine does not smoke or use oil. (just seems sooo slow compared to a 4.4 TDV8…)

To note/logistics:

I have a car transportation contact who could arrange to ship to the UK. We shipped our Volvo down here to Spain 4 years ago and it cost approximately £500.
The buyer would need to pay for the paperwork fees associated with owner-change/exportation in Spain.

What do people think?

For a sale to the UK and a price guide? Again, not doing this for the money - I am just trying to navigate her through to the right next owner.


Link to pictures:

https://photos.app.goo.gl/w8zWEXjREFcQWjrZ7 2012 4.4 TDV8 Westminster - Baltic Blue, Jet interior
1997 P38 2.5 DSE auto & 1998 P38 2.5 DT Manual
1988 Vogue 3.5 EFI - Manual, gone.
2004 Volvo C70 2.0T convertible, had since new.
2007 Mazda MX-5 2.0 Sport Roadster/Coupé, had since new.
2024 Mini Cooper S cabrio, JCW kit, 2.0, DCT auto

Hi, Tommy

I could well be interested in your P38 as a light restoration project and then for use as a second – and ‘fun’ – car here in France. Rather than bare all to everyone here on the forum I have PM’d you. Hope that’s OK!

Steve
 It's "bébéchoon", ackcherly, with accents. 'Steve' to my chums.
20 years ownership of Solihull products, ALL GONE NOW, sniff!
Current motor: Suzuki S-Cross 4WD auto, 1.4 petrol. Oh so reliable! 5 years now and no problems. Oh, all right then, a leaking shocker replaced under guarantee.
Previous:
TD6 HSE L322 Auto FF
2.5 TDi 4-door Classic
Disco II
And my 1st Rangie: in 1995, a 2-door VM 2.5 diesel Classic
Not to mention the Lada Niva before those. (I said not to mention it!)