As the rear subframe needed a full set of bushes and all brake components renewing I decided the easiest way would be to do it all off the car and in the relative comfort of the garage. Still cold but at least standing up and not on the floor.

Removal was relatively straightforward subject to a few provisos. Remember to have the handbrake off before disconnecting everything - makes getting the rear discs off much easier. Try and pick a day when the temperature is above freezing to do the strip down - all the plastic clips snapped (altough they probably would have done any way as they all seem to be designed to be fitted but never removed)

Stripped everything and took metalwork to be blasted and powdercoated

Click image to enlarge

Click image to enlarge

Click image to enlarge

Click image to enlarge

Very impressive

Very good indeed.

Good job

Excellent job ! TDV8 4.4 2012

how easy was it to drop the subframe? did anything like exhausts etc etc get in the way?

i am planning to basically replace all the bushes in the rear so would be handy if i could drop the subframe entirely.

mainly worried about weight and having to faff with exhaust. Its actually a sport

Not anymore, 4.4 TDV8 now

The exhaust has to be removed to drop the subframe. 2012 (L322) 4.4TDV8 Vogue SE, RSE, Fuji White over Arabica.
Previous V8s: BMW 645Ci, P38 4.6, P38 4.0, Merc CL500
Previous others: Honda x1, Volvo x7, Rover x6, BMW x6, Ford x1, Mercedes x2, Skoda x3, VW x2, Renault x2, Citroen x1, Mazda x3, Nissan x1, Audi x3, Kia x1, Fiat x4, Subaru x3, Austin x2, Triumph x2, Jeep x2, Hyundai x2, Lexus x1, Mitsubishi x1, Saab x2... and some others I've forgotten!

https://shop.normagroup.com/de_en/norma-euro-coupler-0367.html

My exhuast had already been cut and sleeved where it splays before reaching the back box. The sleeves used were the type in the above web link (I cannot get it to upload the image) . The back box itself is reasonably manageable balanced on a trolley jack and supported by a willing partner!

This saves disconnecting all the sensors and splitting what looked like fairly fragile flanges.

Slackening (but not completely disconnecting) the exhaust hanger halfway down the RH chassis rail allowed the exhaust to drop sufficiently to allow access. 2011 4.4 TDV8

The fairly simple to construct wooden support pictured in the original posting shows how I supported the weight of the subframe.

The rear section tothe subframe is flat at the bottom and the V is for the diff input flange to sit in.

Bolted to the jack platform at halfway between front and rear mounts which I assumed would be the point of balance and all came down staight and level in a controlled fashion. 2011 4.4 TDV8

Quality job youve done there!

Solid effort!

Not sure many of us would trust all four jacking points in the same way you have. Kudos to you.

That's a thing of beauty!  1992 RR Classic 3.9 efi Vogue
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Both my fatties now gone...
Previous: 2011 L322 4.4 TDV8 Vogue SE /// 2002 L322 4.4 V8 HSE /// 2009 Discovery 3 2.7 TDV6 XS /// 2004 Defender 90 TD5 /// 1993 110 V8 Snatch Landrover /// 2005 Discovery 3 2.7 TDV6 SE (Aus) /// 1990 110 Isuzu 3.9 County (Aus) /// 1976 Series III Trayback (Aus)

Brilliant

What a cracking job you have done!

Jim

This is awesome, fantastic to see.

I am looking at doing the same in the summer, was going to buy an eBay one to start on now, but happy for it to be off the road for a little while.

What was your budget for this?

How did you manage to jack the car so high, are they wooden extensions on the jack stands, trying to make out the pic.

Thanks for sharing.