As per previous posts, my SC gearbox has died. I'm trying to decide if it's a job I want to tackle myself.

I've read the manual and it doesn't sound like it's *too* bad a job but knowing RR's something will be a nightmare. Book time is 5.7hrs too but that's probably when working on a brand new vehicle that's never seen salt and hasn't been assembled for 14 years!

I'm going to order the following:

20 litres of Lifeguard 6 so that I can use it to flush the oil cooler and lines to rid them of the old contaminated fluid.
O-Rings for the oil cooler pipes

I also saw a post where RRPhil said to order IYX500050 which is apparently an input shaft o-ring and some grease. The other thing I did wonder about was the rear main seal whilst the box is removed.

My gearbox has been dispatched so should be here fairly quickly I hope.

Has anybody already done this job? Is there anything glaringly obvious I'm missing? I noticed in the manual it says to support the engine to stop it tipping forwards too.

Appreciate any pointers or advice so I'm not going in blind!

David. 2002 4.6 Vogue SE - Alveston Red with Lightstone Leather
2012 Range Rover 5.0 SC Autobiography in Indus Silver with Jet/Ivory Interior
2012 Range Rover 4.4 TDV8 Autobiography in Baltic Blue with Sand Interior
2013 Range Rover Sport SDV6 HSE Black Edition in Santorini Black with Ebony Interior

Prob going too be the same as any other 4 wheel drive which is a head ache.

I'd imagine will be a case of drop exhaust, drop prop shaft, disconnect transfer box, undo Bell housing bolts, disconnect wiring, disconnect gear selector and should come away. Can only suggest look up videos on you tube to give you an idea.

I took box and transfer box out in one lump, it's very heavy but was easier for me... As you will have guessed from my other posts I'm a firm believer in leaving things alone, you can put some grease on the output shaft but if it didn't have any it would have failed by now...

Having said that I'm a bit concerned about you flushing out the cooler, do it with the same oil and viscosity and it will leave original oil and debris stuck to the sides of the pipes and in the cooler... If I was going to change anything it would be a new cooler and lines or remove them and flush them with petrol etc to clean all the old oil out, then do it again to make sure, it will only take a small amount of debris to ruin the new box...

Make sure the TC is properly located and doesn't move when you put the box back in it is easy for it to fall forward an inch and not line up, you can still bolt the flex plate up but it won't be properly seated....

I had no issues with the engine tipping but it was a different engine... a piece of wood across the struts and a rope would do... Pete
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2014 L405 Autobiography SDV8 4.4 Loire Blue Ebony interior
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2012 L322 Autobiography 5.0 Supercharged Ipanema Sand Sold
2011 L322 Vogue SE 4.4 TDV8 Baltic Blue. Sold
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