Having run the 4.4 for about a month now (after 13yrs of the 3.6), I've noticed a few more subtle differences which I'd like to check with others as to whether or not it's universal, or just my car.

1. Rear PDC 'beeper'. On the 3.6, this was perfectly audible regardless of the radio being on. On the 4.4, I need the stereo turned down in order to hear the beeps. Is this normal?

2. Memory seat. On the 3.6, the memory function included the seat, steering wheel and side mrrors. The 4.4 only seems to remember the seat position. Can this be right?

3. SatNav screen. Fingerprints!! Is it just me, or does everyone else have years of fingerprints embossed onto the screen? Never saw this on the 3.6 screen, but it's like a mural on the 4.4 screen - at its worst when it's switched off.

One more question...... Do I really need a GAP iid tool? I have zero interest in playing with the suspension settings and watching the car go up/down while being controlled by an app on my phone in a car park. I understand the usefulness of a code reader/clearer, but never actually needed one in the past 13 yrs. Where is the justification in spending £500 on one of these things?

Finally, here she is now with the Autohome roof tent and underbody protection fitted.

Click image to enlarge

On my 2008 3.6 :-

1. I can change the volume on the PDC using the IIDtool. You can make it VERY loud!
2. Everything moves, not just the seat.
3. My screen is always full of finger prints, so I just accept it as part of it being controlled by touch.

The suspension up and down isn't something you can do in the way you describe, it's not like one of these US cars which dance!

cheers Got - 2017 SDV8 Autobiography in Loire Blue
Had- 2008 TDV8 Vogue SE in Java black
Had - 2007 S/C in Stornoway Grey

Hi

On mine PDC rear beeper is audible at moderate volumes (for my liking) but not at higher ones. Can get lost in the sounds at some pulse rates as the car approaches an obstacle.

The memory moves the wheel, mirrors and seat.

Sat screens seem to suffer the fingerprints and don't clean off.

Gap will be a personal choice. I included it in my cost to buy the car, albeit 4 years ago and rather cheaper. It has saved me what it cost in diagnostic charges, (water in fuel sensor fault, the usual suspension front upper active connection as examples) and now is able due to update available or about to be, force a regen of the DPF at red. You could also probably change the beepre volume if you wanted to!

Like the car and colour. Any chance of details on the roof tent and fixings please? Cheers
Richard

(there are no such things as an ordinary FullFat, an ordinary cat or too many tools)
2011 TDV8 Vogue Santorini Black
Gap IIDBT

Hi JMC. Where did you get the engine guard from?

Baby wipes for the sat nav screen, just get one and rub gentlyish over and over in little circles and the non reflective coating will come off, you never notice the difference and it looks like a new screen when done... I used cotton buds with a wipe wrapped around for the corners... Works great...!! Pete

__________________________________________________
2014 L405 Autobiography SDV8 4.4 Loire Blue Ebony interior
2011 L322 Vogue SE 4.4 TDV8 Baltic Blue. Parchment over Navy Interior. Sold
2012 L322 Autobiography 5.0 Supercharged Ipanema Sand, Jet Interior. Sold
2002 L322 Vogue 4.4 V8 Epson Green, Ivory over Aspen Interior (Fatty Offroader) Sold
-Click for Project Fatty off roader-

rjff wrote:

The memory moves the wheel, mirrors and seat.

rjff wrote:

Any chance of details on the roof tent and fixings please?

Rhino Rars for the mounts and the cross-bars (TBRUK.com). Autohome for the roof tent. Sit down when getting costs.....  The older I get, the more I realise that people confuse wrinkles for wisdom

PeteT80 wrote:

Where did you get the engine guard from?

Hi Pete. The underbody protection came from Solihull about ten years ago. It was on my 3.6TDV8 for the best part of a decade! Apparently, it was a LR prototype for the 2010MY and this would make sense, as it fits my 2012 more neatly than it did my 2009. It came from a 'friend of a friend' at a significant cost and I suspect it might have come out of the back door at the LR plant.......

Here it was on the front of the old chariot:

 The older I get, the more I realise that people confuse wrinkles for wisdom

Thanks for that, been after one for a while, the only one I can find to fit is the Rival one and they don’t produce them for the L322 anymore.

RJF
Not sure if it would help, but there are a few posts on the wheel motors/gearing giving rise to problems. I'll try steering wheel motor/gearing later and if I find them I'll post links.

Thanks for the info on roof tents For the time being I'll stick to my expedition tent. Cheers
Richard

(there are no such things as an ordinary FullFat, an ordinary cat or too many tools)
2011 TDV8 Vogue Santorini Black
Gap IIDBT

Haylands wrote:

Baby wipes for the sat nav screen, just get one and rub gentlyish over and over in little circles and the non reflective coating will come off, you never notice the difference and it looks like a new screen when done... I used cotton buds with a wipe wrapped around for the corners... Works great...!!

JMC,

I had similar issues for a time with steering column adjustment on my TD6.
The problem could be electrical.
But is more likely due to insufficient lubrication leading to failure of the drive mechanism.

Note that whilst I tackled this for a 2002 MY car, I have adjusted the following narrative as far as possible for relevance to those built 2011 thru 2012. Some anomalies may remain - panel fixings and the like.

The steering column has two motors, one for rake adjustment, the other for reach.
Drive from the (reach) motor uses worm drive arrangements. The components of the first of these this having drive axes at 90° degrees to each other enables drive to be transferred in 90° as required for steering column adjustment. This element of the mechanism appears to be sealed and so cannot be lubricated. A further downstream worm arrangement transfers drive to the steering column to which it is mounted in parallel.

Lubrication of this latter element is important as deficiency here can give rise to jamming of the mechanism and possible permanent damage to the worm itself and presumably the fixed linkages through which it transfers drive.

The existing lube for mine appeared to be a "moly grease" (molybdenum disulphide).  So that's what I used. However I think the factory applied grease is some other lithium based grease yellow/cream in colour - I've not yet identified it. Perhaps other members can assist.

Access to perform this operation was achieved by removing the flat panel above the pedals. As one of the screws for this is concealed by the driver's side centre console closing panel (next to your left knee), this must be removed first - secured by a single screw by the left footrest and two push pin fixings aft of this. The upper panel once removed reveals a couple of electrical connections - one for the footwell light, another for a device which may be heating/ventilation related. I didn't disconnect the battery prior to unplugging this, but may be worth considering.

Note that the panel fixing screws have torx heads.

I applied the grease simply smearing it on the worm drive and taking care to ensure that the grease penetrated all linkages.

The grease can probably be applied from the driver's seat by feeling for the required components. However if you're tackling this for the first time, then you're probably going to be head first in the footwell - and upside down. You might want to get the driver's seat as far back and as low as travel permits.

Note that the drive mechanism for rake adjustment is similar. You might as well lube that one as well whilst you're down there.

A couple of points :

1/ The mechanism once jammed, you're potentially not in a good place.  What worked for me (having applied the grease as above), was to "work" the column adjustment back and forth in very small increments using the control lever.  I was in this way eventually able to restore full operation.

2/ As documented elsewhere on the forum, avoid allowing the mechanism to repeatedly reach the extreme limit of its travel.  This can lead to jamming and indeed permanent damage as evidenced by a screeching sound from the mechanism.

Avoid this by ensuring that the memory setting never permits the mechanism to reach the limit of travel.  I addressed this by bringing the reach setting to end of travel and then backing it off slightly before saving the setting to memory. Probably sensible to check it for "drift" periodically thereafter.


Hope this helps

Warwick 2011 L322 TDV8 A/b Orkney Grey
2008 Defender 90 XS TDCi Java Black
2002 L322 TD6 Vogue Zambezi Silver (gone but not forgotten)
And one or two bikes - Ok, maybe more than one or two....

Kiss My Carbon Footprint wrote:

...

Thanks for that Warwick.

However.... I'm not sure that the issue here is the same as you had.

I have full and normal adjustment for rake with smooth movement up and down from a single steady push of the lever (up or down).

I also have full and normal adjustment for reach with smooth movement all the way in and out, BUT, it only works with several pushes/pulls of the lever. Each push/pull gives about 10mm of in/out movement then just stops until the lever is pushed/pulled again. The wheel goes all the way in and comes all the way out, just not in one single action. There are also no unusual noise or harshness about the movement at all.

Oh!, And the wheel doesn't work at all with any of the memory settings, nor does it lift itself with ignition off.

In truth, none of the above actually matters, as I rarely want to move the wheel anyway. Also, my old ('09) L322 used to throw the occasional hissy fit with the steerring wheel where it would drop to my knees at ignition on, missing it's pre-set point altogether. The older I get, the more I realise that people confuse wrinkles for wisdom

Ah right, Ok.

When you said adjusting column reach required several pulls/pushes of the control lever as it would only move in short spurts, I took that to mean that the mechanism was jamming.
Which is kind of where I found myself a couple of years back.

Sounds like it could be electrical then.
A dodgy switch maybe... ?

Cheers 2011 L322 TDV8 A/b Orkney Grey
2008 Defender 90 XS TDCi Java Black
2002 L322 TD6 Vogue Zambezi Silver (gone but not forgotten)
And one or two bikes - Ok, maybe more than one or two....

Kiss My Carbon Footprint wrote:

A dodgy switch maybe... ?

In truth, that's the sort of thing I'm hopeful of. It's not affecting me on a day to day basis and I'm happy that the wheel doesn't do it's own thing every time I switch on/off the ignition. I just don't want it to be an early sign of a major failure to come.

I've heard of several steering column problems on late 4.4's which have resulted in bills of the order of £4k and which even LR Assured will not take responsibility for.  The older I get, the more I realise that people confuse wrinkles for wisdom

Indeed, in the course of researching possible differences between the TD6 column and that for your car I did come across an eBay seller offering complete new assemblies for the TDV8 4.4 at £3,750.

Which of course takes no account of the not inconsiderable task of swapping out the existing kit.


Cheers 2011 L322 TDV8 A/b Orkney Grey
2008 Defender 90 XS TDCi Java Black
2002 L322 TD6 Vogue Zambezi Silver (gone but not forgotten)
And one or two bikes - Ok, maybe more than one or two....