Hi all, any help greatly appreciated as I’m not sure where to start, I have a pretty good general mechanical knowledge but not overly technical so bear with me…
Ok so I purchased my RR a few months back with 177k miles on her for a decent price. I proceeded to change the oil and filters (except fuel filter, it’s a genuine LR one changed 30k ago). I had the gearbox mega flushed by bodsy.
I’ve covered 2.5k miles in at and it had been completely amazing engine wise not missing a beat, started and ran beautifully.
I don’t push her hard at all.
A couple days ago I pulled out of a junction and got up to national limit, there was a moment of power loss followed a few seconds later with the Red RP light…
The revs were getting less and less but I managed to limp it to my customers house where I was headed…
I tried the normal switch off and switch back on, no luck still running very rough and lumpy hardly revving above 800, occasionally stalling.
I left it for a few hours, removed and cleaned the MAFS and MAP sensor which didn’t look dirty anyhow. Again tried and still the same. Unplugged mafs and still the same.
At this point it it was just the RED RP light, I waited until I’d finished my work and called Green flag for recovery as didn’t run well enough to even move now….
I then noticed now the warning light was accompanied by a Red DPF full visit dealer light which wasn’t on previously…
I’ve had no issues whatsoever with anything DPF related, no yellow warning etc etc…just seems strange it’s came up straight away Red? I’m wondering if that’s actually the fault or something has gone causing it to think that as it didn’t say DPF straight away when it was running terrible? I code read and there are 2 codes that won’t clear…P2463 DPF restriction soot accumulation and P040D EGR temp sensor A….
Now by assuming those 2 faults are causing these issues it’s pretty straight forward I guess, change the sensor and get the DPF cleaned off the car, put it back together and away she purrs….
I’m not entirely convinced of that though due to the fact it barely runs now, will start for a couple seconds really lumpy then stall….
I’ve a feeling there’s something underlying that’s caused the issue? It really seems like a fuel starvation problem but unsure…
Where to start guys and gals? Thanks in advance for any advice..

do a search on here for DPF. there's loads of info. it is unlikely your DPF is full or needs cleaning or removing. It may be sooted up by an air leak. In. my case it was the inlet manifold cracking, although most other's fault was caused by leaking pipes to the plenum.

Get a HIGH pressure smoke test done first.

Hi, trouble is it won’t run now for more than a couple of seconds and most of these diagnostics require it to at least run…hmmm

But I will check the manifolds as that’s free and easy as a first step I guess..

Check for leaks in the form of oily residue from the 4 connecting hoses between the air inlet manifold and the inlet manifolds.

Quick update, had a look as much as I could see at the manifolds and hoses and they are all fine…
Still the same 2 codes too…

I took a video but can’t work out how to post it, literally starts runs really rough and dies in a couple of seconds…so still figuring what’s the best way to proceed…

As mentioned above, a high pressure smoke test needs to be done, it'll either rule out a charge air leak or confirm it. Just because there are no witness marks doesn't mean you don't have a leak that's has only just started. The DPF full DTC can be set when there is a lack of boost pressure compared to exhaust pressure (excessive back pressure), unfortunately, the ECM can't tell which of the sensor readings is correct so sets a 'protect the environment' DTC.

you can ignore the P040D code this will not be related. you need to get a tool to measure how much soot is in the DPF. as mentioned you need to find the cause for the DPF to fill up. if you have a IID tool also look to see when the last re-gen happened or the last attempt.
I have a LRii Icarsoft and it will show me that information but have never had to force a re-gen. 2012 Vogue 4.4 TDV8 - Current
2014 Navara V6 - Gone
2004 Vogue TD6 - Gone
Grand Cherokee - Gone
Discovery V8 (LPG) - Gone
Discovery TD5 - Gone

Phoenix wrote:

As mentioned above, a high pressure smoke test needs to be done, it'll either rule out a charge air leak or confirm it. Just because there are no witness marks doesn't mean you don't have a leak that's has only just started. The DPF full DTC can be set when there is a lack of boost pressure compared to exhaust pressure (excessive back pressure), unfortunately, the ECM can't tell which of the sensor readings is correct so sets a 'protect the environment' DTC.

Jayk69 wrote:

you can ignore the P040D code this will not be related. you need to get a tool to measure how much soot is in the DPF. as mentioned you need to find the cause for the DPF to fill up. if you have a IID tool also look to see when the last re-gen happened or the last attempt.
I have a LRii Icarsoft and it will show me that information but have never had to force a re-gen.

A decent smoke tester will cost ~£300, find someone mobile that can do a 'high pressure' smoke test - high is not 100psi, more like 20-30psi, much more and you'll/they'll be damaging stuff.

For now, ignore any downstream DTC's, concentrate on the induction side and prove that leak-free before moving to the exhaust side. You'll just end up pecking away like a Hen without really getting anywhere, the key to effective diagnosis is to lose any confirmation bias and progress methodically - just because one part tests OK doesn't mean wasted time - you've just eliminated it as a possible cause.

I think what I’m going to do is get her recovered to my local specialist (Mark Smith) in Bicester for them to take a look at and diagnose. Thanks for your help so far I’ll keep you updated.

You've chosen the best route. If you're not au fait with these things best take it to someone who knows their


Is this you by any chance?

 Gone to a good home: 2011 4.4 TDV8 Vogue SE Buckingham Blue with Ivory and clear glass = "Rory"
New Defender D350 90 on order.
1974 Series 3 Lightweight = "Millie"
My preferred specialist: www.glenrands.co.uk
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That’s not me no but I’ve commented on his post and that’s what reminded me of Mark smith lol, I wish mine still drove and was an amber warning lol

Taken to Mark Smiths specialist for diagnosis.

Click image to enlarge