Gents, I got hit by a triple whammy just before leaving for the North Sea now before xmas.
To start off, it's been dog cold back home, -26/-27 degC for a week, so I've been out starting the big ol'Rangie up at least three times a day (letting it idle for quite a while before shutting it down again). It's been a bit tricky to start, as if the starter doesn't click in, but jump starting with the old Ford Explorer, and/or ~ten attempts fires it up. (It also gives me a low key fob warning, even though both fobs have fresh batteries...)

So, to the tenderloin of the issue:
Rangie was nagging about low coolant level, so I topped her up with fresh coolant (excess of one litre), and she had been idling for about 25-30 minutes. Compressor was struggling to lift the car, claiming one height sensor is off. 4x4 screen confirms that, but still. I know the compressor has been struggling for it's last breath, so that fault is relatively reckognizable.

Then I took off to pick up the missus from work. It's a 20 min drive @ about 80 km/h each way.
Roughly 2 km from home the big ugly red triangle popped up in the dash, claiming the DPF is full, and I struggle back home and up the hill to our hose...

Wtf..? All these faults at once can't be coincidence, in my mind.

To top it off it's been having the EGR temp sensor fault (I think it's P040D-00) since I got it...

Any ideas?

EDIT: BTW, it's a 2012 TDV8 with ~185k kms on the clock.

The temp sensor fault is a known issue, there’s a whole thread on it below and some debate about where the sensor causing the issue is located ( there are two viable candidates ). I’ve got this fault code too; most owners seem to choose leave it alone if there is no other fault as access is difficult. I might tackle it next spring.

https://www.fullfatrr.com/forum/topic48131.html

https://www.fullfatrr.com/forum/post486114.html#486114

My *guess* on the other issues would be low battery; are you able to trickle charge it in between your stop/start routine?

Oh and by the way; Oppland is a long way North & -27 is nuts !….…. I wonder if you might be the most Northerly latitude FFRR owner on the forum ? TDV8 4.4 2012

I'm actually not that far north.
Trondheim for instance is about 260 kms closer to the north pole.

On to the DPF issue (which is my biggest headache atm, since it's undrivable with the restricted performance).
I had a chat with Strømmen Bilverksted, the BEST independent LR workshop in Norway, and they said my best bet was to try and force a regen, by disconnecting the batteri for a little while, hooking it back up and get straight on the road.
I already mentioned it's cold here right..? Plus I'm stuck close to the border between Scotland and Norway (in the North Sea)..
So I called up a local garage, also considered to be of the better ones, and they've had some good experience with various DPF cleaning products.
They have a LR enthusiast working there as a mechanic, so he's booked to have a go at it over the xmas break.
Fingers crossed they can breathe enough life into it to get it down to Strømmen (~270 kms) for a proper inspection and service.
My thoughts are there must be some other root causes for all these gremlins..

Statfjord?

Hopefully the weather will be favourable and you will be able to get Christmas onshore.

Safe trip

Forgot to say, battery probably needs changing.....

I’d caution against forced regens and especially any DPF cleaners which can raise the temperature of the DPF too much and cause permenant damage ( melt the metalic catalyst infront of the ceramic filter) I’d suggest a 20min drive in those extreame temperatures is simply not enough to initiate a proper regeneration. 2012 TDV8 Vogue (L322)

dingg1 wrote:

Statfjord?

Hopefully the weather will be favourable and you will be able to get Christmas onshore.

Safe trip

I can see Statfjord from my office window, so you're not far off!
Weather out here is windy, but (offshore)nice. And no, I'm here for both xmas and new years.!
Thanks though!

Jaygee has a point regarding your journey, see extract from WSM-----Exhaust System - TDV8 4.4L Diesel
- Diesel Particulate Filter and Component Description
- System Operation

its a L405 but would think the process is similar--- see Wiki for WSM


The active regeneration process takes up to 20 minutes to complete. The first phase increases the DPF temperature to 500°C (932°F). The second phase further increases the DPF temperature to
600°C (1112°F) which is the optimum temperature for particle combustion. This temperature is then maintained for 15-20 minutes to ensure complete oxidation of the particles within the DPF. The
oxidation process converts the carbon particles to carbon dioxide.
The active regeneration temperature of the DPF is closely monitored by the DPF software to maintain a target temperature of 600°C (1112°F) at the DPF inlet. The temperature control ensures
that the temperatures do not exceed the operational limits of the turbocharger and the catalytic converter. The turbocharger inlet temperature must not exceed 830°C (1526°F) and the catalytic
converter brick temperature must not exceed 800°C (1472°F) and the exit temperature must remain below 875°C (1382°F).
During the active regeneration process the following ECM controlled events occur:
- The turbocharger is maintained in the fully open position. This minimizes heat transmission from the exhaust gas to the turbocharger and reduces the rate of exhaust gas flow allowing optimum
heating of the DPF. If the driver demands an increase in engine torque, the turbocharger will respond by closing the vanes as necessary.
- The throttle is closed as this assists in increasing the exhaust gas temperature and reduces the rate of exhaust gas flow which has the effect of reducing the time for the DPF to reach the
optimum temperature.
- The Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) valve is closed. The use of EGR decreases the exhaust gas temperature and therefore prevents the optimum DPF temperature being achieved.
If, due to vehicle usage and/or driving style, the active regeneration process cannot take place or is unable to regenerate the DPF, the dealer can force regenerate the DPF. This is achieved by
either driving the vehicle until the engine is at its normal operating temperature and then driving for a further 20 minutes at speeds of not less than 30 mph (48 km/h). 2018 SE SDV8 4.4 Byron Blue

if you had an iid tool, you can do a forced regen, and set up the phone to monitor the parameters that the car needs to carry one out. ie you can see the soot levels, and engine temp, and speed. and by glancing periodically you will notice the soot level start falling. therefore maintaining the 25 mph will see it complete. also, remember that you need more than 1/4 tank of fuel for it to start. i had a red alarm, and used this method to get it to clear. ever since, when i get the amber, i go for the drive, and it clears. all without need for the tool.

I do indeed have an IID-tool, but I couldn't find any forced regen functions in the menus.?

Kot wrote:

Jaygee has a point regarding your journey, see extract from WSM-----Exhaust System - TDV8 4.4L Diesel
- Diesel Particulate Filter and Component Description
- System Operation

its a L405 but would think the process is similar--- see Wiki for WSM


The active regeneration process takes up to 20 minutes to complete. The first phase increases the DPF temperature to 500°C (932°F). The second phase further increases the DPF temperature to
600°C (1112°F) which is the optimum temperature for particle combustion. This temperature is then maintained for 15-20 minutes to ensure complete oxidation of the particles within the DPF. The
oxidation process converts the carbon particles to carbon dioxide.
The active regeneration temperature of the DPF is closely monitored by the DPF software to maintain a target temperature of 600°C (1112°F) at the DPF inlet. The temperature control ensures
that the temperatures do not exceed the operational limits of the turbocharger and the catalytic converter. The turbocharger inlet temperature must not exceed 830°C (1526°F) and the catalytic
converter brick temperature must not exceed 800°C (1472°F) and the exit temperature must remain below 875°C (1382°F).
During the active regeneration process the following ECM controlled events occur:
- The turbocharger is maintained in the fully open position. This minimizes heat transmission from the exhaust gas to the turbocharger and reduces the rate of exhaust gas flow allowing optimum
heating of the DPF. If the driver demands an increase in engine torque, the turbocharger will respond by closing the vanes as necessary.
- The throttle is closed as this assists in increasing the exhaust gas temperature and reduces the rate of exhaust gas flow which has the effect of reducing the time for the DPF to reach the
optimum temperature.
- The Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) valve is closed. The use of EGR decreases the exhaust gas temperature and therefore prevents the optimum DPF temperature being achieved.
If, due to vehicle usage and/or driving style, the active regeneration process cannot take place or is unable to regenerate the DPF, the dealer can force regenerate the DPF. This is achieved by
either driving the vehicle until the engine is at its normal operating temperature and then driving for a further 20 minutes at speeds of not less than 30 mph (48 km/h).

You need to update to the latest software as it was a special request feature on previous versions. Once the DPF is past a certain soot load this is your only option but try a longer journey first if the warning is not telling you to go to a LR service centre ( or some such wording) 2012 TDV8 Vogue (L322)

Rangie says:
"DPF full - visit dealer"
I'm afraid...
Plus it's on restricted performance, so there's no chance I can get the revs high enough to start a regen..

Thanks for the tip on the IID though, I'll make sure I get that done.

johnboyairey wrote:

if you had an iid tool, you can do a forced regen, and set up the phone to monitor the parameters that the car needs to carry one out. ie you can see the soot levels, and engine temp, and speed. and by glancing periodically you will notice the soot level start falling. therefore maintaining the 25 mph will see it complete. also, remember that you need more than 1/4 tank of fuel for it to start. i had a red alarm, and used this method to get it to clear. ever since, when i get the amber, i go for the drive, and it clears. all without need for the tool.

If it’s on the ‘return to dealer’ a forced regen is your only option. 2012 TDV8 Vogue (L322)