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Home > Maintenance & Mods (L322) > [Mechanical] PCV Hose Replacement
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dan_uk_1984



Member Since: 12 Nov 2008
Location: Bude, Cornwall
Posts: 4014

United Kingdom 2006 Range Rover Supercharged 4.2 SC V8 Tonga Green

I can't find the pattern parts, but these are the genuine parts from Britcar:

LLH000140 - BREATHER TUBE UPPER>SEPARATOR £17.85 + Vat
LLH000130 - BREATHER TUBE >SEPARATOR £19.76 + VAT
LLH000110 - CONNECTING HOSE >OIL SEPARATOR £2.89 + VAT
LLH000120 - CRANK CASE VENT HOSE £5.29 + VAT

The top two are easy, the 3rd is difficult, the 4th is nearly impossible.

D 

Post #52677 3rd Mar 2011 2:50pm
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bogie



Member Since: 06 Nov 2010
Location: Notts/Sth Yorks/Lincs border
Posts: 208

United Kingdom 2004 Range Rover Vogue 4.4 V8 Java Black

exactly what Ive just had done on my car - cost for parts as above, an hours labour @ £40 and some vat

they lasted 6 years I guess, so not toooo bad, thats another niggly little job done ...im working my way around and hopefully I will get longer than a month of ownership without another MIL on or error message in the display LOL Smile cheers
bogie

Post #52923 4th Mar 2011 4:15pm
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dan_uk_1984



Member Since: 12 Nov 2008
Location: Bude, Cornwall
Posts: 4014

United Kingdom 2006 Range Rover Supercharged 4.2 SC V8 Tonga Green

Just found some very good "How to" video's by Storey Wilson on how to replace the PCV Valve itself. It also covers removing the two main PCV Hoses:



 

Post #57369 29th Mar 2011 7:15pm
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KARMANN



Member Since: 13 Dec 2010
Location: Scotland
Posts: 95

2002 Range Rover Vogue 4.4 V8 Java Black

This is an old post but thought I would comment as ive just dealt with all my pcv hose and the valve. The reason for my concern was an engine management light on and rough idle. Now the rough idle was ever so slight, but could be noticed best when the point of being fully stopped and moving with the brake gently on met. Some may mistake it for being a brake issue. The way to tell is to have the car stationary with it ticking over listen and look at the engine then when the viscous fan kicks in the revs will increase this is normal, but does it sound healthier and look smoother? If so check the PCV side of things.


Once I noticed the hoses were mushy I ordered some from Britcar. The 4 hoses cost around £75.
I decided to do the oil and filter at the same time. So drained all the oil, fitted the filter. I then disconnected the three accessible hoses. Leaving the breather hose still attached to the PCV valve. They started to fall apart as soon as any force went on them and they were compltetely blocked. I replace hose 1 and 2 which lay ontop of the manifold. 1 going from the cylcon to the PCV valve and 2 going from the cyclone to the rocker cover. I also removed the cyclone as it was choked full of gunk (hard oil) and thoroughly cleaned. A pipe which is joined to the cyclone by a hose (number3) which takes the oil back down to the sump was also removed. It was also choked, I cleared that and fitted the new hose to it before refitting it to the car. This pipe also has a small breather hose which we shall call number 4.
So at this stage hoses 1-3 are back on the car with new clips, the cyclone cleaned refitted, and pipe leading to sump cleaned out and refitted. New oil also added. Hose 4 not fitted as the valve would need to be removed to do this.
The engine was still idling rough, so suspected the valve also needed doing.

I then ordered the PCV valve and new bolts for it from the stealers £91. There are 7 bolts to remove, 5 came out with ease one with persuasion. And the last took a few hours of varying methods inbetween general life but it came out eventually. Once I removed the valve I noticed the fourth hose was completely knackered. In one of the youtube how to vids. It says dont pull on this hose as you cant get to the other end incase you dislodge it. But on our engines-it loops tightly under the intake manifold to the opposite side of the block at the rear, to the pipe previously mentioned which leads back down to the sump. I removed it from that pipe and pulled it through. I didnt at this stage think id be able to run the new pipe the same route, but it actually did squeeze through the same way. It has to be ran from the cyclone side to the opposite side. It wont go in the other way. I got a mirror and checked the intake manifold and it was oily which due to the valve and the hoses being blocked/split is not a surprise. I gave it as much of a clean as access allowed. Fitted the new PCV valve and reconnected the hoses.
Once it started up, I new instantly the engine was running much smoother than I can remember. Due to not being able to totally clean the intake manifold im going to run the car for a few days before changing the plugs. These will nodoubt be oiled up due to the pcv issues.

For those that like to 'muck in' go for it yourself. If you dont like working in awkward and tight positions and the toolbox is limited id probably recommend sending it to a garage to change these. But make sure you get all the old parts back to check over as I cant imagine many garages would attempt the fourth hose.

There is a black and white post of the parts earlier in this topic. Could somebody would copy it and highlight the hoses 1-4 I will edit this post to suit if need be. That will make it clearer and helpfull for those just beginning to contemplate the job. Also recommend checking the videos on youtube.

Fraser

Post #139911 7th Sep 2012 12:53am
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Elduke



Member Since: 22 Apr 2013
Location: Glasgow
Posts: 148

Scotland 2004 Range Rover Vogue 4.4 V8 Zambezi Silver

I realise this is an old thread but Iam looking to do these hoses on my recently aquired ff as they appear to be shot.

Just wondered if anyone has done theirs recently and the best place to get the pattern parts or the exact size of hose needed as it seems to be between 18mm and 22mm internal diameter?

Will be my first of a few things to do so any help would be appreciated Thumbs Up

Post #195053 18th Jun 2013 11:12pm
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