What's a sticky paint? After 16 years as a automotive paint chemist I have never come across "sticky" paint.

You don't needs lots of gear to get great results and as for "Pro" last I looked you don't exactly need a qualification to start up a business in detailing and suddenly call yourself a pro.
There are lots of less desirable people out there that call themselves pro's but that said find yourself a good one and the results are amazing.

Oh I'm not a pro mate sorry for the confusion, that said I have enough work booked in to last me till way past christmas lol. "sticky paint" is something we come across rarely and no one is quite sure what causes it, assumptions are made that it is a problem during the curing phase, others say otherwise but the results are the same. It's like an instant heating of the panel causing the polish to almost weld itself to the panel, and believe me it's very difficult to remove. It's the premature heating that's the issue. But of course with a da, as I'm sure you know, the heat is produced in the backing plate where as on a rotary it's in the pad, so using a da can easily get round this. It can still be done on rotary, various prep stages and use of closed cell pads with low rpm can often get round it but when all is said and done it's easier to just reach for the da. Lots of Japanese cars suffer from it, Subaru massively, some hondas which again given your occupation I am sure you will know better than me but I think they are water based as a posed to ceramic etc so perhaps that to has a hand in the issue. Please don't think I'm trying to start an argument here, just trying to help someone out with an issue that I am both passionate about and quite experienced with. Hey that's what forums are for I guess, helping others out and getting knowledge across

Oh and yes you are absolutely right, if your good your good regardless of what you call yourself. I call myself matt and have fixed many a "professionals" work

Apologise I get very involved when discussing paint. Even after 16 years I still love my job and find it very interesting.

All modern cars are painted with water bourne paints including the clear. This does cause lots of problems but I have never come across what you describe. It could have more to do with the metal panel, thinner gauge steal/ali will heat up really quickly. (form press)

I am hopefully picking up my ffrr tomorrow. How do you find the paint? It is done by our competitor so will be fun for me getting to grips with it.

Ha ha now then competitors! Now your talking lol. In all honestyi have one 3, all black and the paint has been moderate in hardness with no issues at all. However, the orange peel is horrendous, simply unacceptable IMO. Ihave no idea why? To short being baked or to thicker coats? 2 ways to reduce the peel if not wet sanding, back to the da's with a surbuf pad, meguires 105 and use a regenerative technique with water in a spray bottle. OR, and you may like this, google osren, they make detailing equipment and have produced a new velvet pad for the rotary, similar to wool that you are used to but they are wicked at levelling paint and with a bit of teasing finish remarkably well. Needing only 1 further refining stage so you could in theory compound and level in one set, then refine, job one. Very very good and not expensive. But if not bothered by the op then you could quite easily one step with some 203s on a yellow 3m

Do people post details on here out of interest? I will be doing my new autobiography soon and can do a write up if you think the guys here would enjoy? I have reall only been asking questions I never gave a thought to if peeps here like that sort of thing

Orange peel is caused by a lack of paint thickness. Normally found on solid colours, but not with my paint

I would think a guide through modern techniques and basic equip (2 bucket, snow foam ect,) you would need for a single days detail would be helpful.

antoniasdad wrote:

You could get a quote form these guys:

http://cambridgeautogleam.com/default.aspx

Given your location Justin I would recommend having a look at this website, I've seen the guy's work for a number of years on another forum and his work is fantastic, he's done a number or RR's RRS's and D4s.
Completely understand if you want to do it yourself, I have a Porter Cable DA myself but rarely find the time to do the RR.  2021 P400 Silicon Silver AB
Gone 2011 Bournville TDV8 VSE
Gone 2008 Black Canadian HSE LUX

Yes, I got a recommendation for them from Nickmak on disco3, he's a detailer. They're near me, and very near Justin... I'm off up there next week. Graham

____
Gone: 10MY L320 RR Sport HSE, Ipanema Sand
Gone: 20MY Jaguar iPace HSE, Silicon Silver
Gone: 17MY RR Evoque SE Tech, Loire Blue
Gone: 08MY Discovery 3 XS, Stornoway Grey
Gone: 07MY FFRR TDV8 Vogue, Stornoway Grey

I appreciate the recommendation for a detailer local to me, but I want to have a go myself, as I actually enjoy polishing car. 
Gone - Range Rover Supercharged 2006

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Seriously Justin read both these guides over and over again. They explain in depth not just the theory behind polishing and the practical application, but also behind the polishes themselves. They are long but you will be all the wiser and get much better results because of them. Hth

http://www.detailingworld.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?t=66024

http://www.detailingworld.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?t=63859

Just remember it's not a race and most of all have fun that's what it's all about

Hi Matt,

I've read both threads and my take away is as follows.

Clay the car first to prevent surface contaminants from clogging the pad.

If you can, measure the paint thickness before you start.

Add the product to the pad, then make sure the pad is in contact with the paint before starting the machine.

Buy light and medium cut pads, and a light and medium cut polish. Start with the light pad and light polish and evaluate whether it's removed the scratches / swirls sufficiently, if a deeper cut is required try the next polish, if you still require more, try the stronger pad and finally both. Once happy, work back in stages to the lighter pad and polish to remove the swirls introduced by the machine.

Move the machine at about 1-2 inches per second, (I need to check the speed for each polish / pad combo)

Whilst a rotary is more powerful than a DA, its not the fire breathing monster that the internet (and no doubt the pros) would have you believe.

What have I missed - I wiil read the thread again once I've decided whether to go for a rotary or a DA.

I already understand the theory of polishing, which I learnt during my days as an engineering apprentice - I spent a 6 week stint at a foundry where I polished small metal samples to be viewed under a microscope.

Cheers,

Justin 
Gone - Range Rover Supercharged 2006

Ok so all the basics covered. Just take your time and learn the polishes. When using a da, pressure and a level machine are the important points. When using a rotary following a zenith technique steady overlapping passes and priming your pad are the important points, always check panel temperature and although you work a polish to clear do make sure it doesn't "dry". Perhaps a good idea would be to join detailing world forum and just soak up as much info as poss and perhaps put out a request for some help from a local member? It's a very friendly forum and someone is usually happy to help for no other reason than for fun

Polishing is a paradox, it's not as easy as "everyone" thinks but it's not as hard as some "pros" would like you to believe.

Get on dw and just read as many showroom and studio posts as you can take. You will quickly pick up what is required and advised and what's pointless

Dave KG is "THE EXPERT" on detailing cars, his work is legendary and everything he writes is 100% accurate.

Greatness can be achieved by following his advice to the letter.

This was the mess my FFRR was in when I bought it, sadly neglected and living on a farm it had been driven through fields, hedgerows etc and the paintwork was terrible.

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Admin note: this post has had its images recovered from a money grabbing photo hosting site and reinstated

What a cracking transformation  
Gone - Range Rover Supercharged 2006

Hi All,

After reading loads and watching many you tube vidoes, I bought myself a Meguiars G220 v2 Dual Action Polisher along with the Meguires microfiber polishing system.

I've had a test run on the bonnet, and the results look fantastic, I can't wait to do the rest of the car at the weekend.

Cheers,

Justin 
Gone - Range Rover Supercharged 2006