TD6 '02 FFRR Front Air Spring Removal and Refit |
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01 - Wheelnuts loosened before jacking – 210 viewsI followed workshop manual instructions for jacking, using the "customer jacking point to get the car up in the air, then an axle stand under the front subframe just to the rear of the wheelarch. You'll see where in later pictures. I left the trolley jack in place, under slight pressure for safety.
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02 - The offending article – 356 viewsYou need to unclip the brake hose and the ABS sensor wire from the bracket and also release the ABS sensor wire from the clip on the other side. Now you are supposed to deflate the airbag, but as mine was already flat there was no need. I found if I moved the suspension up and down the car would start trying to fill it with air, so disconnected the battery to stop this happening. Will cover deflation elsewhere.
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03 - Airbag fully deflated - there's a hole in it! – 368 viewsThe hole is about 3cm from the bottom or the bag on the left. We'll get a closer look once i have the strut off.
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04 - Remove the Anti-Roll Bar Link – 422 viewsThis is all made to sound easy in most of the instructions I have seen - not so. You will need an 18mm deep socket to undo the nut, but also a 18/19mm open ended spanner which you slide up the back of the mounting point onto the flattened edges of the knuckle to hold it whilst you undo. You will then find the thread well and truly stuck in the mounting because of the pressure from the anti-roll bar
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05 - Actually removing the Drop Link – 425 viewsTo remove the link from the mounting, you need to lever the ARB down to release the pressure, push it out, then gently raise your lever and remove
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06 - Removing the Nuts on the two bolts at the lower end of the strut – 386 viewsThese guys are on super tight, see the home made extension bar (knocked up from trampoline bits) to get enough leverage. You need a 22mm deep socket to undo these.
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07 - Close up of Lower nut removal on strut – 416 viewsAt this point I decided to support the hub from below with some wooden blocks to stop the susnsion moving downwards when force was applied to remove nuts and bolts. I chose not to remove the track rod end as recommend in RAVE.
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08 - Tight Bastard! – 430 viewsThe upper bolt came loose as I undid the nut, but the lower one was jammed solid. Could just get it to turn using my super extension, but then it broke the 1/2 inch extension bar. With nut on, a clump hammer was brought into play, but this wouldn't shift it either. Looking like destruction will be necessary as I don't have welding torch to get some serious heat focused on it.
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09 - The tight one! – 449 views
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10 - Removing the iiner wheel arch – 337 viewsThis is recommended by the Arnott's guide, (on the drivers side UK) in order to release air from the springs. Did this while taking a break from "The Tight One". There are three bolts on the body that protude through the arch, fixed with plastic nuts (10mm), these are in the recesses/dimples in the arch. Nearly all the rest of the fixings are hexagon headed screws (8mm), including the three underneath the body at the rear. You will also need to undo a few of the engine undertray screws to access the clips.
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11 - removing inner wheel arch 2 – 320 viewsAt the front you have to remove a set of plastic clips to release this section
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12 - removing inner wheel arch 3 – 312 viewsAt the rear you have three hexagon headed screws (8mm) and the tricky one is tucked up just behind the mudflap. Its a plastic clip fixing, but you need to unscrew first with a Philips screwdriver, then use a pair of pliers to finish the unscrewing (as the screwdriver keeps pushing the clip back in)
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