Knew it wouldnt be long before I was back asking questions............ I seem to be getting a slight juddering at around 20 to 30 mph. Looking on here, begining to think it might be the torque convertor, however the pile of invoices I got with the car shows this being replaced in 2011 and going by the MOTs its only done about 15k since then. TC is just listed on the garage invoice as a part at about £150, does this maybe indicate it wasnt a new part and maybe just out of a breaker. Total bill for the work was just under £500 and included new fluids as well (labour rate £45 an hour). Any thoughts welcome.

Glad I had approx £1500 in reserve for repairs - didnt expect quite so many so quickly though - only had it 3 weeks!!!

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Could also be fuel system related or brake calipers although since it is a specific speed, it is likely to be gearbox drive train. MY 2010 5.0 SC Galway green and sand interior!!
Have the Faultmate MSV2 Extreme to be tinkering with the settings etc. !!

Sorry - its a 2003 4.4V8 with 145k on the clock.

If a coil pack is messing around one one of the cylinders then this can cause this sort of juddering.

The good thing is that you have the ZF gearbox, they seem to be a lot more reliable than the GM of the TD6.

As for the cause of the judder, hard to say. I suggest to start with simple things are clean fuel and fuel injector cleaner and fuel filter change. That way you at least have some of the potential fuel related issues out of the way.

Also do you have someone that can read the fault codes, they may tell you something. MY 2010 5.0 SC Galway green and sand interior!!
Have the Faultmate MSV2 Extreme to be tinkering with the settings etc. !!

It is looking very likely that it is the TC - mate and I took it out last night and coming up the hill to the house at around 1500 rpm there was a really noticeable vibration/juddering coming thru the car and at same time revs flitting up and down as well. Seems to start with a rumble that you'd think was coming from the rear of the car and then you get the juddering. Also tried putting into sports mode and it seems to disappear - notice none of the lights in the dash to tell you which gear you are in (sports mode) illuminate either so no idea what gear it is in. Is this just a bulb issue or related to the transmission error?

How difficult a job is replacing the TC for a fairly competent DIY mechanic (not me) with access to an inspection pit of should I go to a garage. If its garage how much should I reckon on paying and any recommendations in Inverness area. Thanks.

No chance it's rear propshaft centre bearing or propshaft UJ? 

hadnt given either of these a thought - this is really stretching my mechanical expertise. Going to change transmission fluid filters etc and get a look at what sort of condition oil is in and take it from there.......... before I do anything else. Hopefully that will give a better indication of where problem lies.

i think i'm with Eugene and say its fuel related...it would be unusual that the newish t/c is responsible.. ... - .- -.




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It should be 5 hours work to replace your torque converter.

Because the Sachs W260S-2GWK torque converter lock-up clutch is very unusual in not having a built-in torsional vibration damper, it is susceptible to this vibration as the LUC friction plate wears. It’s quite a specialist job remanufacturing the LUC. The piston assembly has to re-welded in place with a fixed preload from the tangential springs, and as the stroke of the piston is very small this has to be done very accurately. I suspect that some TC repair places get the converter apart, decide that replacing the LUC is too challenging, and they just replace the stator axial bearings and weld it all back together again and sell it as a remanufactured unit. Make sure that you use a reputable re-manufacturer.

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Thanks Phil - if I do need to do the TC I was going to use jpat.co.uk as suggested by you in another post, they have quoted £260 plus vat. Also found someone that is local, that comes with a good reputation/experience on all LR vehicles so he is going to have a look over the weekend.

happy bunny today.......... changed all the fluids (gearbox, transfer box and F&R diffs) juddering all gone and car runnng nice and smooth. Was nothing in the sump pan when took it off to change the filter, just oil that was past its best! Wonder what my next challenge will be??????

You have filled me with confidence as I get a judder at around 50mph that clears after 60 and is worst under hard acceleration . Fluids and filters tomorrow I think. Mine is a TDV8.
Fingers Crossed. To jump on the post, how difficult is dropping the oil etc? Is accessible from a driveway? Any brand advice?

I've been getting the same thing (2004 v8 vogue 90k on the clock) and was resigned to replacing the TC. However I did have a rad problem before and as a result the gearbox cooler wasn't getting its full quota of cooling. I'm starting to wonder if the gearbox oil got coked and is in need of replacing.

As a first step I will replace the gearbox and diff oils and see how it goes. "On first name terms with my local Dealer......now."

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From memory I got the gearbox oil from the local motor factors as it was a good bit cheaper than dealer but the diff fluid had to come from main dealer as they didnt stock it. I also bought a new set of plugs for gearbox and diffs as at least one of them - gearbox filler plug if I remember correctly was a nightmare to get off and was a bit damaged by the time it was off. I'm extremely lucky in that neighbour has a workshop with ramp etc - wouldnt like to try it without the vehicle being raised. Good write up on here that gives you the step by step instructions - follow these (especially getting the gearbox filler plug off before you drain it) and job's a good one.

Mine had done 146k when I did the job and oil was pretty well cooked, made a huge difference and sorted out the issues I had at the time and no issue since (well not with this anyway, few others.........)

S