pld118
Member Since: 25 Mar 2013
Location: Bairns
Posts: 4218
 
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| L322 Range Rover - A Buyer's Guide & Experience (ABC) | |
This is not posted by a professional or an expert on L322 Range Rovers.
You can read here (and elsewhere on this forum) a longstanding list of issues about one particular approved used 2007 L322 4.2SC.
The outcome with a large UK main dealer group was:
This vehicle was bought back by the main dealer group after approx 2 years 2 months and 22k miles. A full refund of the original purchase price and all LR service/ maintenance costs was received. This was because despite being under LR warranty, the selling group would not guarantee resolution of a ladder frame engine oil leak that they been commissioned to repair under the terms of the LR Select warranty (the leak was present at the point of sale and had been reported to the seller within the first month of ownership).
Take your time, do your homework and consult with learned forum members. Know your rights, keep on top of looking after and maintaining your car. Keep records of every communication you have with a seller and with those servicing/ maintaining your Range Rover.
Do not let this thread put you off Range Rovers. This particular SC was replaced by another A.U L322 and then by an L405. The RR is a great car.
The thread originally started as follows:-
Having recently experienced buying a L322 Range Rover Supercharged Vogue SE from a main dealer, this post is to hopefully assist potential L322 buyers (and maybe some existing owners) regarding things to be alert to.
Sale of Goods Act 1979:
Firstly, it is helpful to be aware of Sections 14 and 48 of the Sale of Goods Act 1979. The act relates to the fact the consumer has a right to expect quality, fitness for all the purposes supplied, freedom from minor defects and a reasonable expectation for repairs to have been undertaken within a reasonable time without causing significant inconvenience. If these things are not the case with your purchase you can assert non conformity to the contract of sale within the period of six months from the date of purchase.
References to �caveat emptor�, meaning �let the buyer beware�:
If you buy a car from a *private seller* 'let the buyer beware'. You have fewer legal rights, so make sure you inspect the car and know what you are buying. You will only be able to claim against the previous owner if he/she lied, for example about its age or mileage. You will not be able to claim where there are faults with the car.
However, buying from a motor trader (or dealer) is a different matter and you have greater rights -
'Wear and tear':
A seller is not responsible for fair wear and tear, so you cannot claim goods are unsatisfactory just because they've become a bit worn over time. For goods to be unsatisfactory they need to be faulty when you bought them, even if you didn't discover the fault until later. If the goods don't last as long as they should, this suggests that they were faulty from the beginning.
** If a defect is detected within 6 months, it is presumed that the defect existed at the time of sale or delivery, unless the seller can prove otherwise. **
Whilst better to do so, *** you do not have to examine items before buying them. This means that if you haven't spotted something wrong before buying an item, you can still claim it is not of satisfactory quality. This applies even if you would have spotted the defect if you had examined it closely ***. However, if you don't complain quickly, you may have to accept a repair, replacement or partial refund, rather than a full refund.
More information on the S of G.A can be found on this link:
http://www.legislation.gov.uk/
This UK Citizens Advice Bureau link is also another helpful source of information on UK Consumer Law:
http://www.adviceguide.org.uk/england/cons...ucts_e.htm
Since buying one in April 2013, a lot of information has been collated/ first-hand experience gained of things to be alert to and things that can go wrong with these cars. Many things can be straightforward to fix. Many things can be expensive to make good (even down to replacing seemingly innocuous nuts and bolts that need to be replaced).
If anything in this post is deemed technically incorrect please be reminded that this is posted in good faith to try and help based on a recent experience.
If you are unsure whether anything referred to in this post is technically correct, please consult with a professional/ someone more technically experienced to ensure that you receive the most competent advice.
You can discount this post, parts of it and/ or use it to create your own checklist:-
A B C (no matter who the seller is, when thinking about buying and even after collecting the car) �
Assume nothing
Believe nothing
Challenge everything
Main Dealers, Multi Point Inspections & Warranties �
As at 2013, the Land Rover UK website assures customers that approved used Land Rovers undergo a comprehensive multi point inspection and states that all vehicles are given a comprehensive inspection by Land Rover trained technicians. The website states:
"Everything from the paintwork to the performance and safety is checked. Should any faults be found with the vehicle, they are rectified prior to display and sale using only genuine Land Rover parts. The inspection always includes a complete engine preparation, a road test and final inspection before the vehicle is professionally valeted.�
No matter who you buy from, you should not assume that a dealer will have effectively undertaken a multi-point/ inspection before you buy.
Your L322 might be covered by some form of approved used, other warranty or insurance policy.
There are 2 types of LR UK warranty (�Approved Extended Warranty� & the 'Select Extended Warranty').
LR Approved Warranty � A minimum of 12 months unlimited Mileage Warranty for Land Rover's up to 5 years old and up to 75,000 miles on the speedometer at the time of purchase.
LR Select Warranty � For Land Rovers up to 10 years old and with fewer than 100,000 miles on the speedometer. Land Rover Select Warranty provides a minimum 6 months cover for specific mechanical and electrical components for up to 25,000 miles from the date of purchase. Cover can be extended.
The LR Select warranty gives more restricted warranty coverage but is still extensive (go to LR UK website for more details).
LR Paint Surface Warranty � Valid for 3 years from the car being new.
LR Anti Corrosion Warranty � Valid for 6 years from the car being new.
Warranty Terms & Conditions � Always check the terms and conditions of any after sales warranty before you commit to buying the car. Be clear as to how long the warranty is for. If buying an approved used vehicle do not assume that the car is supplied with a 12 month warranty. Approved Used RR can be offered with �only� 6 month warranties if they are over 5 years or have done more than 75,000 miles. If a main dealer advertises a car for sale with �only 6 months warranty�, you can try to negotiate an extension into the deal (for example, negotiating a 12 month warranty).
Do not assume that your warranty is accompanied with breakdown cover. Check.
Buying Guide/ Checklist �
This checklist is not exhaustive and is evolved from a historic post that Matt Stevenson made on Landyzone. It is based on a recent personally challenging experience of buying a SC and also information obtained from people on this forum. Much of this post should be things to check for on any car. Some of the information is common sense. Some of the issues to be alert to are peculiar to the L322 �
1. Full Service History � if the car has been serviced by LR they might not always have stamped the service booklet. You can contact the servicing dealer/ LR customer service to try and obtain the vehicle service record from them.
2. Front Differential � Has the front diff been replaced? This was a factory recall in some cases.
3. Coolant � Check for coolant leaks. The L322 can be prone to this.
4. Fluids � Check all fluid levels over and again.
5. Transmission � The TD6, as just one example, can have transmission problems. Any automatic gearboxes (as with all components) can fail at any time. However, many people seem alert to potential failures from 80,000 miles onwards on pre facelift TD6 in particular. Some people prefer to have the gearbox oil changed in the hope it will prolong the life of the gearbox.
6. Wing Mirrors (A) � If the car has power fold mirrors, when you activate mirror fold, the mirror housings should fold all the way in and unfold all the way out. If a mirror jumps or clicks the motor might need to be replaced.
7. Mirrors (B) � When engaging reverse gear, if equipped, the passenger side mirror should dip to show you the kerb and should go back to normal when de-selecting reverse (if the car has this function - not all of them do have it - the function can be switched off/ personal choice).
8. Air Conditioning � Check that the Air Con goes all the way up and all the way down (should be ice cold if working correctly). Enquire as to whether it has ever been serviced and/ or has been used regularly.
9. Heated Seats � Check all heated seats. They have two temperature modes. Make sure they both work (the Vogue has rear heated seats as well).
10. Electric Windows � Should open and close freely (rear windows stop about 10cm before the bottom of the window as a safety feature).
11. Electric Steering Wheel � All steering wheel controls should work including cruise control.
12. Heated Steering � Check that the heated steering wheel button works at both the on and off position (a red light should come on when the button is pressed and you should be able to feel the steering wheel heating up).
13. Electric memory seats � All parts should work and be capable of memorising your favoured seating position.
14. Electric/ Memory steering wheel � It should go up and down/ in and out freely and again be capable of memorising your favoured steering position when you insert the ignition key.
15. Low Range Gearbox � It should work when selected.
16. Hill Descent Control should work when selected � Car should slowly move downhill without need to apply the accelerator or brakes.
17. Media/ Entertainment � Check all front, rear, left and right functions of Sat Nav/ Radio/ TV/ DVD/ CD and remote controls if equipped. Has the car been upgraded to digital TV?
18. Bluetooth/ telephone functionality � Ask the seller to demonstrate pairing your mobile telephone and the telephone working properly (some reports suggest that cars equipped with the Venture Cam � housed in the upper glovebox � can interfere with the telephone functionality).
19. General Electrics � Check all including a check of front/ rear wipers and the headlight wash.
19A. Front Windscreen � Check to ensure that the heated front windscreen does not suffer from failed elements.
19B. Reverse Camera � Check that the rear reverse camera situated within the tailgate roof spoiler (and front camera if fitted) is working properly. Images can be grainy and/ or the system can fail completely.
19C. Front & Rear Parking Sensors (PDC) � Carefully examine each circular parking sensor to ensure that they have not collided with any objects and have been displaced ('pushed in'). Check to ensure that when the car is in use that all of the parking sensors are working properly/ emitting an audible warning.
20. Failing seals/ water ingress � Check for water damage in the passenger cabin/ around door seals. Check for water ingress/ damage in the boot area including where the car�s electrical equipment is sited in the left compartment of the boot space (Factory fit DVD units are housed there too).
21. Headlights � Pre facelift Headlights can overheat causing parts of the unit to melt (this is intended to mean cars before 2007 MY but some 2007 MY have reportedly been affected).
22. Rear Lights � Can suffer from water ingress/ inner condensation (one reported fix is to pinhole drill the lens cover).
23. Air Suspension � Should raise and lower and hold the selected position on all settings.
24. Suspension Airbags � The condition should be checked particularly if you are buying privately and/ or have no warranty (they can be checked by viewing them underneath the car).
25. Windscreen Scratches � Check the windscreen carefully for chips, cracks and scratches from the wiper arms or other objects. Windscreens are expensive to replace. Enquire as to your standard car insurance excess/ level of cover you have and/ or whether any warranty including �free MOT cover� would cover a replacement windscreen in the event, for example, of a scratched windscreen being deemed a UK MOT fail.
26. Supercharger oil � Some people feel it is a good idea to change the oil at around the 70,000 mile mark (this might assist http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Jaguar-Eaton-M11...0676739255)
27. Supercharged L322 (other reported �potential weak points� which you can research on this/ other forums) �
� Rear brake callipers
� Transmission cooler
� Suspension arm rubbers
� Coolant pump (can be incorrectly wired on the supercharger)
� Radiators leaks/ failure
� Battery problems
28. Corrosion & Bodywork - Carefully examine the car inside and out, in good light for signs of corrosion, failing paintwork and previous repairs (including 'smart repairs' where the paint finish might not have blended well with the original finish). Ensure that close attention is paid to concealed areas including all door edges, tailgate edges, bonnet edges and all frames/sills. Look for signs of blistering on the black window frame trims and carefully examine all wheel arches, in particular the rear arches (one suggestion might be to take a cotton or microfibre cloth with some Tardis degreaser/ white spirit type product to enable dirty concealed areas to be wiped clean during the viewing so that corrosion is not masked from sight, for example on the rear wheel arches which you should inspect with the rear doors open for full sight of the arches). The below link is to a forum poll to determine L322 owner experiences reference wheel arch corrosion:
http://www.fullfatrr.com/forum/topic25362.html
The next link is one suggested remedy to keep rear wheel arch corrosion at bay if your arches have yet to suffer corrosion/ have been repaired to remove corrosion:
http://www.fullfatrr.com/forum/topic22530.html
29. When you buy a used car from a UK dealer it should be fit for purpose and free of defect in accordance with Sections 14 & 48 of the Sale of Goods Act 1979. Some dealers offer a 1 month/ 1000 miles refund option if you are not satisfied with your purchase. That does not deny you the rights extended by the Sale of Goods Act which last for 6 months from the date of purchase.
An Actual Experience/ Issues �
What follows are descriptions of actual issues raised with the main dealer and which had not been raised until after paying for and collecting the car.
After a long and challenging process, the main dealer replaced, reportedly repaired and/ or resolved all of the issues. The approximated cost of these remedies was substantial.
� Wheel arch rust � Visible unsightly rust/ failing paintwork on the edge of both rear wheel arches. Both on the metal and on the bumper plastic in parts. The main dealer�s smart repairer declined to do this repair and said it needed to be done in a body shop otherwise the rust would return. The repair was done in the main dealer body shop. 10 months later the corrosion re-appeared and the rear arches were re-done under warranty of the original repair.
� Tailgate Corrosion � This can apply to the lower and upper tailgates. The upper tailgate is known to suffer with this, even on newer cars. Whilst detailing the car 3 months into ownership, only with the upper tailgate partially open and in direct sunlight, noted were several just bigger than pinhead sized blisters/ bubbles on the public facing edge/ lip of the offside tailgate. This prompted closer inspection of the internal tailgate where there was early stage evidence of similar failing paintwork/ actual rust coloured oxidisation within the corresponding weld seam/ channel on the inside of the tailgate. Careful, intricate and regular cleaning of more remote parts of the car might prevent this and/ or allow early detection having damage limitation and/ or warranty claim period limitations in mind.
� Driver's Door Rubber Window Seal � The rubber to the top corner/ opening edge of the driver's door was, at the point if sale, loose because the rubber seal was very slightly torn around the grommet hole meaning that it could not be secured over the grommet. The main dealer replaced the seal. Further issues were yet to manifest with the driver's door.
� Driver's door stay (hinge) � Was loose, moved notably when the door was opened/ closed and creaked very loudly. All door hinges were tightened/ re torqued by the main dealer and then a further issue occurred with the driver's door.
� New Driver's Door, Glass & Window Regulator Required - 2 months into ownership whilst driving slowly with the driver's door window down, the electric window switch was used to auto close the window. There followed a noise like the glass snagging on rubber, the glass ground to a halt about 1" from the top of the door frame and therafter could be heard the sound of the window motor, motoring on. A small vertical crack appeared from the bottom of the glass (roughly about in line with the outer wing mirror casing) and the crack then got bigger going from each side of the window. It transpired for reasons never established, that this occurred because the driver's door frame was twisted although it was confirmed that the car had not suffered a previous collision. A new driver's door, window, window regulator, door seals and new driver's door paint finish were required. The main dealer undertook these repairs without charge. One indicator that all had not been well was that unlike all of the other doors on the car, the driver's door had a tendency not to clunk shut at the first attempt, generally only catching the latch and requiring a second attempt to fully close it.
� Intrusive Wind Noise (New Driver's Door)� This manifested from 38mph and sounded like the driver's window was just open at the top although the window was fully closed. It tanspired that when the wing mirror housing had been put back on the new door, the wing mirror housing/ a seal aligment were slightly out. There is apparently a Land Rover Technical Bulletin that main dealers have about this very issue.
� Rear Nearside Wing Paintwork � A section of the rear passenger side wing had been the subject of a historic localised repair which showed up in bright sunlight. The main dealer body shop painted the entire wing and blended it in/ also doing part of the rear passenger door.
� Tyre Pressure Monitoring System/ Deteriorating Tyre Valves � Once the dust caps were removed, there was visible/ obvious deterioration of the valves on the car. The rear offside valve was broken and the tyre lost air on trying to inflate it. The main dealer had put 4 brand new tyres on the car before selling it but had not replaced the TPMS valves. The main dealer eventually replaced the valves on all 5 wheels at a reported cost of approx. �450 (note - your RR should have a full sized spare alloy wheel in the boot). The dealer technician advised that there should be no problems with the replacement TPMS valves as they are now better made and are zinc coated to sustain their longevity (a number of owners have the TPMS de-activated and more cheaply replace the metal valves with traditional rubber valves which is another �permanent fix� to resolve such problems).
� 2 New Radiators Required (detected due to a smouldering smell & a slight leak making its way out via the engine bay under tray) � The smell emanated from the front end of the car. Smelt like a combination of hot brakes and/ or hot oil on engine components. The slightest of fluid deposits was left on the ground under the front nearside of the engine bay. After close inspection the main dealer confirmed an oil/ leak connected to radiator components resulting in a time consuming and expensive repair including the requirement for a new radiator. When stripping components down to replace the main radiator, they noticed that 'a second radiator' needed replacing as well. Completed under the LR approved used warranty.
� Oil Leak - Engine - visible via discharge out of under tray holes. Replaced the front offside driveshaft seal. Later discovered was also a minor oil leak via an oil breather hose which was also replaced.
� Oil Leak - Front diff - diff was weeping/ had a teardrop type leak. Replaced the full front diff and the pinion seal.
� Oil Leak - 19 months and approx. 18,000 miles into ownership and symptoms of a minor oil leak and the smell of warm oil on engine components persisted, just as they had done since buying the car. Diagnosis was eventually brought to a conclusion by the author of this buyer's guide getting underneath the car at home, removing the plastic under tray/ sump cover and visually inspecting the sump and driveshaft. Both were coated in oil. The plastic under tray/ sump cover had in fact been collecting a moderate amount of the leaking oil from the sump, meaning that visible leaks onto the garage floor and driveway were infrequent and negligible, almost masking and concealing this problem. The car was returned to the selling dealership and the fault was first diagnosed as a failed sump gasket seal that was causing the leak. A new gasket seal cost only about �15 GBP. However, the time to complete this work and repair the leak was quoted at approx. 20 hours labour. Further inspection concluded that in fact the cause of the leak was from above the sump gasket and was in fact a leaking ladder frame. That required the engine to be removed to replace the seal requiring approx. 20 to 30 hours labour. The sump gasket seal was deemed not to be covered by the LR warranty. After a challenge to LR warranty who first declined to honour the leaking ladder frame, the leaking ladder frame was covered by the LR warranty ** when the engine was removed to address the ladder frame, the Supercharge pulley belt and Alternator belt were replaced with new belts. The plastic under tray cover was replaced also **
� Gearbox Sum Pan - Oil leak. Visible/ sump and surrounding areas looked wet. Replaced the gearbox sump and the sump seal which involves draining existing oil, replacing with new oil and putting a new filter in (new oil & filter should help to prolong gearbox life).
� Steering/ Servotronic Valve � When turning left or right, more so at low speeds (for example speeds of approx 10mph or less) whilst the power steering was working, there was some resistance, almost like a vibrating notchy/ bobbly feeling against the way the steering wheel was turning. This could mean that a Universal Joint(s) is in need of lubrication; and/ or the Servotronic valve needs to be replaced. The Servotronic valve was replaced by the main dealer.
� Front Brakes � Were not just as sharp as you would expect (the Supercharged has Brembo Front Callipers as standard). The main Dealer stripped and cleaned the front brakes which sharpened performance. 10 months into ownership, the front brake discs and pads were replaced with excellent Brembo discs and pads. The below link details how those discs and pads were researched and sourced via the forum:
http://www.fullfatrr.com/forum/topic23290....embo+discs
� Seatbelt Tension � The driver�s, front passenger and rear middle seat belts did not reel in well. The driver�s belt was the worst and had to be slowly fed back in by hand. An indication as to whether your car is affected by this might be damaged paintwork in the door recesses from doors accidentally being closed on seatbelts that have not reeled back in. The fault can be remedied by removing the B pillar/ covers, cleaning the seatbelt guides (aluminium bars) as they get covered in a sticky thick dust and the belts can be replaced. The main dealer cleaned the guides/ belts and the performance improved.
� Tailgate Warning Light � Intermittently came on. Main dealer said that it was due to the boot alignment being out and the sensors �kicking in�. The dealer adjusted the boot alignment and the problem stopped.
� Grommet/ Trim Missing � Underneath the rear nearside seat bench a round circular grommet or cover/ plug was missing (near the bench hinges). Replaced by main dealer.
� Undertray Bolts Missing/ Bolt threads sheared � Replaced/ made good by main dealer (dealer said that a private customer would pay approx. �15 for this).
� Aux Socket Cover Missing � In rear of car/ central RSE console. Replaced by main dealer.
� Repeated Flat Battery � The car battery was flat 3 times in 3 days but had not been used for approx 3 weeks pending resolution of issues with the dealer. A trickle charger was used by the main dealer to resolve this. The dealer said that if the problem re-occured they would replace the battery FOC. The problem recurred and despite a further test indicating no battery fault, the main dealer replaced the battery as a matter of good practice. Battery drain re-emerged 10 months after the new battery was fitted. That battery was replaced with a new LR battery under warranty.
� Reduced engine performance � Whilst the car was experiencing battery drain problems 10 months after a new LR battery had been fitted, the car suffered a loss of power on the motorway and the reduced engine performance warning light came on. This was diagnosed as being due to a defective water pump which serves the supercharger. The water pump was replaced.
� Poor/ Blocky/ Interrupted Digital TV Signal � Despite a new module previously having been fitted by a LR main dealer and a declaration by the main dealer salesman that the system had been 'upgraded', the TV signal was not fit for purpose and was referred back to the main dealer for remedy.
� Boot Floor Cargo Net � Was not supplied with the car (optional extra on the Vogue SE). The main dealer supplied a net as a good will gesture.
DIY/ Improvements:
� Tread (Scuff Plates) � These are aluminium plates that butt up to the carpets in all 4 doorways. When new, the aluminium is anodised to prevent oxidisation. Naturally, through time, the plates can become scratched. As they are anodised, scratches will not polish out. Original LR L322 plates are approx �400 to buy. Badger Anodising, Birmingham, England is one company who can refurbish these tread plates to a high standard. They chemically strip the plates, have them professionally polished (linished) and anodise the plates again (to achieve the 'factory look' a 'bright finish' must be requested). The overall service and end product is superb (the plates were refurbished in April 2013 at a cost of �80 incl UK VAT but not including postage). If the car has, for example 'Supercharged' badges, you are advised to remove these badges before having the plates refurbished. 'Supercharged' badges are metal badges that are stuck on to the tread plates with double sided adhesive tape. They will come off with hairdryer heat. After removal, the 'Supercharged' badges were then left in a small container of 'Tardis' degreaser for a few days whilst the refurb was being done. The remnants of the adhesive then just slid of the badges and the Tardis bath allowed all contaminants to be simply wiped off with a cloth to leave the badges looking as new (it is advisable to photograph the badges on the plates before removing them so that the images can later be referred to when replacing the badges with double sided adhesive pads/ tape).
� Lower Sill Plates Purchased - The painted L322 lower sills can easily get kicked, scuffed, scratched with people getting in and out of the car. The driver's sill showed signs of this and as an alternative to having the sill re-painted, following recommendations from respected fellow members who have tried and tested their products, plain brushed metal lower sill plates were purchased from Powerful UK at a cost of �70 including delivery for 4 sill pates. All as per the below forum link:
http://www.fullfatrr.com/forum/topic20512.html?highlight=sill
� Unsightly Exhaust Silencer ('Back box') � On the L322 RR, the metal back box should be black. Even on nearly new RR, the 'back box' can become weathered and the black paint will degrade, leaving the box looking a scruffy combination of black/ bare metal. The 'back box' can be DIY re-painted to a very high standard by the novice. By using basic masking/ tape and a piece of square card as an overspray deflector, an 'as new' look can be achieved. The 'back box' can be prepared by being wire brushed/ rubbed down with wire wool and/ or lightly sanded before being wiped clean with a lint free cloth/ all-purpose wipe and/ or an alcohol based wipe. Two aerosol cans of 'Hammerite High Heat Paint Matt Black Finish' were used and the 'back box' was given 2 to 3 coats (aerosol cans of Black Satin paint are also widely available).
� Windscreen Scratches/ Wiper Marring - The windscreen was quite badly scratched/ marred (it has been said that the L322 windscreen is made of a soft compound/ can be prone to scratching and marring). �23.50 to 'Car Pro' bought Ceriglass paste and 5 rayon pads to be DIY used with a Heavy Duty 1800RPM Rotary Polishing Machine. This process took many tedious hours over a number of days (bite size chunks) but was money and time well spent as the scratches/ marring dramatically improved all round such that most people would never notice any scratches on the windscreen.
� Detailing - The entire paintwork was subjected to a DIY process of Iron X; then Tardis 'tar remover'; then Bilt Hamber Regular clay bar; followed by Farecla G3 scratch remover applied to isolated areas to remove the few scratches that were on the car; followed by polishing each panel with AG SRP; followed by AG EGP wax (scratch remover was applied in the odd area via a HD Rotary Machine Polisher/Farecla Foam Polishing Pads and scratch remover, SRP & EGP were also applied using a Meguiars polishing pad and good quality microfibre cloths). The black window/frame surround pillars (the OEM finish being matt) were DIY machine polished using Farecla G3 followed by AG SRP and the result was a gloss finish. Despite having GTechniq C4 & AG Bumper Gel for treating plastic, a nice product for use on the vehicle plastics is Turtle Wax tyre and trim gel @ Halfords. �7.49 for 500 ml. Nice smelling gel, easy to work in with a small square dishwasher sponge. Buffs off with microfibre cloth, no horrible residue and leaves a non greasy looking standard finish. A very effective and user friendly trim dressing.
� Bottle Jack & BMW Jack Adaptor Purchased - Some express concerns about the ability of the LR supplied scissor jack to safely jack the car due to the size and weight of the L322. Bottle jacks are preferred by a number of people and as such a brand new Mercedes Sprinter bottle jack was purchased for a bargain price, all as per the below forum link:
http://www.fullfatrr.com/forum/post209542.html#209542
� February 2014 - New Brembo front brake discs and pads (bought as one kit). Bought from FFRR UK site sponsor Advanced Factors Ltd to compliment the Brembo (OE factory standard) front calipers.
� May 2014 - New upper tailgate and registration plate lights, new lower tailgate and reverse lights, new boot seals & new rear bumper.
� June 2014 - New TRW (OE factory standard) rear calipers bought as well as new Brembo rear brake discs and pads (bought as one kit). Bought from FFRR UK site sponsor Advanced Factors Ltd. There had been no problems or advisories with the rear braking system, these parts were simply bought as part of ongoing good practice maintenance.
� October 2014 - Air Con Air Quality Sensor (Recirculate), replaced due to IID tool showing a fault named "HVAC-Heat / Cool 1/1 0x30 Air quality sensor line fault" - This is actually a BMW part, even when supplied by LR main dealers. A simple unplug removed this part which the L322 Workshop Manual 2007-2010 describes as a "Pollution Sensor". The new part also simply plugs in and the part cost approx. �25 delivered from Duckworth LR. The part on our car was the following genuine BMW part/ number: S 6411-8 391 470
Complaints/Queries to LR UK - Can be made to:
E-mail lardvice@jaguarlandrover.com
Customer Relationship Centre
Jaguar Land Rover Limited
Tel: +44 (0)1926 691856
Fax: +44 (0)1926691938 ;
And / or via this forum link:
http://www.fullfatrr.com/forum/land-rover-...-vf33.html
Last edited by pld118 on 11th Jan 2018 8:12am. Edited 54 times in total
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20th May 2013 3:11pm
(I do less than 6000 miles ayear anyway) I think it is a stunning machine even without breaking the speed limit. 
