Thanks Mistercorn, that's what I want to hear. Mine is getting bad. Must be the heat. Got to do it soon. Was yours through Akspeedo and did you need to drill?

I have just checked on my eBay history, it was through Akspeedo, May 2013. I vaguely remember something about doing some drilling, but you are asking me to remember what I spent a short time doing over two years ago. As my Dad would say, I've been to bed since then... What I do remember is that getting the wood trim pieces at the end of the dashboard off was about the most awkward part of the job.

MC

Well mine was back from cartronix yesterday and fitted this am, it's great.
Sent it Wednesday, they received it Thursday and repaired and returned it same day. Can't fault them for service.
I Struggled a bit getting the wood trim back on.
Jake 2003 Range Rover Vogue 4.4 on Gas
1961 88" 2.25 diesel - George
Gone - 1997 3.9 V8i Discovery - Burt

In doing more internet research I've got a fairly clear idea of the problem and the fix. To answer my own question as to cleaning and reseating the cable it has been done. The old cable tends to lose some of its conducting material to the old glue. This necessities one to position the old cable a bit higher. Doesn't seem to be worth it. I'll get a new cable. The second problem is with the silicon pieces on the LCD bar. They compress and age over time making them thinner. Their thickness. Is needed to help make proper ribbon cable contact. Paper spacers have been used behind the silicon to restore the needed contact pressure. The last issue of concern is the drill method to get to the retaining screws without removing the gauge needles. If they are in identical or near identical position as on the x5 I don't see an issue. As I see it you are drilling through the plastic face with no circuit board parts. Just set a stop on your drill bit so you can't drill past the thickness of the plastic face. No worries to the circuit board below. Am I missing something?

Just an update. Got my ribbon cable from akspeedo. About 1 week from UK to PA USA. It includes a drill template and pass codes for instructions. I'll take pics of the procedure. May take a week for me to get to it.

Good luck, it was one job I was not happy to do myself. If it dont work.......burn it!

If the IId tool cant fix it.......burn the FF.

If the FF cant be fixed......buy a Land Cruiser!

If the LC cant be fixed..............................................BUY a horse !!

I have recently replaced the ribbon cable with one from AKSPEEDO. With the cable comes links to website instructions with passwords to access, also paper templates to drill holes to expose screws. This saves removing the dial needles which can do damage. I chose to drill the holes as you peel back the clock faces a little, drill the holes then once replaced the faces cover the holes. The process although time consuming was relativly pain free with a perfect result. I would not have tried with the heat bonded types. 100% perfect readout when finised.
I would suggest using a Dremmel type drill to make the holes 2007 TDV8 VSE
2003 TD6 gone.
2002 P38a gone
1999 P38a gone
1997 p38a gone
1993 VSE gone
1992 VSE gone
1966 Series 2a with V8 conversion gone

Just finished the ribbon cable replacement. I will post some pictures later but I have some pointers.
**** I didnt disconnect battery at first. After pulling cluster random lights would come on and stay on. ****

1. Instructions are lacking. They show replacement on a cluster with the needles removed. YouTube videos do the same. They state there are 8 large torx screws holding the dash down. I only found 7. In removing the vent the instructions say push the tabs in. I took that to be push them flat with the vent wall. No just the opposite.
1a. The X plastic tabs helping to hold the cluster case together are just plastic you bend. They seem to be more important for alignment of the case halves and not needed for securing the halves. If they break don't worry. The catch tabs are the important ones. I found using business card stock folded in 4 tucked under the rim makes it easy to separate the halves. Pictured is my first attempt. It worked but with more effort.