I'm collecting parts list for prep for valley pan repair. Is it necessary to replace the plastic cover that sits on top of the valley pan? Not sure what role it plays. Also is it best to replace the pan with OEM part or can it be resealed. PO tried and looks like failed. Thought that maybe the gasket sealer is of a special formula.

i suppose it could probably be sealed with high temperature RTV sealant, there are different temperature ratings. But given the amount of work involved in fitting it, i think i'd go with a new OEM part

Thats what I feel. But if someone said "yeah I've used XYZ sealer and it worked for 150k miles" I'd try it.

I have this job to do when I get a chance, - I'm going to reseal it with black RTV (place a bead, allow to set and then reattach) and change the inlet mani seals, and probably remove water pump and reseal the front to back water pipe seals, (o rings) and the two rear gaskets on the y piece, and the infamous soft heater hoses. Also gonna swap out the thermostat, for the lower temp option. as these jobs are all very easy at that opportunity. I have all the gaskets and seals, just need a day off!
Doing it like this geezer describes.
edit.. read thread to the end to see better solution. -dont use RTV


Last edited by johnboyairey on 29th Jul 2016 1:48pm. Edited 1 time in total

I remember watching this video before buying the Rover in prep for the repairs I may need to do. Clearly not a Fullfat but maybe even easier on ours. It answered 3 questions I had but leaves one important one unanswered and that is how long did his repair last.

what will make it a little more difficult on ours, is reaching the back of the engine. It's a bit of a stretch unless you're 8ft tall.

No its easier. The bigger cabin air filter box removed gives you lots of space. Reach is no problem when you are lying in the engine bay. I will say its not a good idea to do this with the nose up on a 25 degree hill. I need to lose 10 lbs or 20 years.

it helps if you make a platform next to the car. Boxes with a plank across them or something.

http://www.fullfatrr.com/forum/topic6714.h...ey+coolant
 [img]http://www.fuelly.com/driver/rob2529/range-rover[img/]
04, 4.4V8, Vogue Oslo Blue with LPG.
"You can sleep in your car, BUT you can't race your house!!!!"

If something can't be fixed with a hammer....... You have yourself an electrical fault!

My valley pan leak seems to be slow enough to wait for spring do fix. But in my search to find the best way to seal it I found a BMW thread that said the the M60 valley pan is identical and the earlier ones use a separate green gasket that seals better than the current system and it costs $11. Anyone have experience with this? Thanks

Did anyone come up with a sources of the "Green" valley pan gasket. Or a part number. Eddie the eagle watch out 👀

Realoem.com doesnt list it separate because the new pan/gasket replaced the old system. I could have sworn i found it somewhere. Ill keep looking. That being said it doesn't seem to be my valley pan that is leaking and the PO using a silver/gray RTV fix is holding for 20k miles now.

Well found the BMW part number but it would seem at first glance that it is only from the states or Germany. Any one know home grown UK supplier.
BMW M62 valley pan gasket part number 11141736175.
Did you just use the Black RTV. If do what make please. Eddie the eagle watch out 👀

I have a theory why BMW changed from separate gasket to gasket/pan combo. The pan is not very robust and in reusing it you risk reusing a pan that is warped and will not hold a seal. By having the pan/gasket set BMW avoids admitting its pan was underengineered and that it couldn't handle modestly improper or over torquing. Since the new upgraded pan has the RTV gasket attached one can't say RTV doesn't work assuming its the right RTV. I've read some people like using the M60 fiber/sealant gasket and claims it lasts longer. It may even be more forgiving with improper torquing. Just a theory.

Go on you got me!
Can you elaborate on the sealant M60 fibre.
The pan is under engineered but I did check mine for twist and pulled flanges and it was fine.
I have looked into the Permatex ultimate Grey silicone sealant and I have ordered some, I think I will give that a go.
It should be good enough to compensate for a little undulation should there be any.
New 1/4 drive Bluepoint Torque wrench and very carefully and slowly talked down in the correct order the last time using new, grade4 stainless studs. Then retorqued it twentyfour hours later.
Real over the top, belt and braces stuff and it still leaked. Must be jinxed I recon. LOL.
If I had any confidence in the BMW new replacement VP I would put one on. But looking at one, I don't. Eddie the eagle watch out 👀

Last edited by Pepi on 7th Aug 2016 4:18pm. Edited 1 time in total