Hey all,

Wondering if anyone can identify my suspension compressor?

Car is flagging up a few errors (icarsoft tool) about reservoir taking a longer time to fill up. Seen a few posts about servicing the unit with a new piston ring on the Wabco types but not sure who makes my one.

Car is a 2006 L322.

The sticker says "NCJ Pressings Ltd, Coventry, England" - is this another manufacturer of suspension compressors for Land Rover?

Cheers,

Click image to enlarge

I’d say your compressor is original, as here’s my 2011 one.

Not sure of the service kit needed though.

Are there no details in the rebuild threads.

Click image to enlarge

Click image to enlarge

I have seen comments on here about the sintered inlet air filter (gold colour in your top pic) getting clogged and preventing compressor working to full capacity. Recommendation is to drill a small hole in the centre of the circular end to allow more air in.
Worth a try? Previously a 2008MY Tonga Green Vogue SE 3.6 TDV8

To be fair, that’s what I was doing when I took those pictures.

Mine would not want to lower, and get stuck in off road height if you put it there.

Would go up fine....coming down was my issue... sorted though...

Thanks all,

Yeah that's right, hole in the filter...

Does it look like the Hitachi unit? I'm just thrown by the sticker on it.

I don’t have any idea of specific compressor models, sorry. 2011 Range Rover Vogue SE 4.4 TDV8

Previous cars :
2003 Range Rover Vogue TD6
1999 Discovery Td5 ES
1995 BMW M5 3.8 6 speed
1992 Range Rover 3.9 Efi Vogue
1992 BMW M5 3.8
1988 BMW 735i SE
1989 Ford Sierra XR4x4 2.9i
1981 Ford Fiesta Supersport

@ Twistedjack, you have a HITACHI, can be replaced with HITACHI or DUNLOP compressor, if you take AMK from Germany (not good!) you have to Change Software.

Try to drill a Little hole in the "exhaust" first, if Problem stays, buy a new one. All HITACHI refurbish kits are junk !!!

Rgs, Uli TDV8 4.4 from 2012, 278.000km like new + Lancia Flavia Coupe 1964 + RRS L494 3.0 SDV6 + C220CDI Convertible 2021

Thank you Uli,

Exactly what I was looking for.

Cheers!

Looks like a Dunlop to me, I changed mine to Dunlop works well now as I had errors all the time before the change, now goes up and down as it should much more quickly>

This here is the correct one, beware of chineas copies, only good for 5 month!


https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/RANGE-ROVER-L32...SwHDdcXFrT TDV8 4.4 from 2012, 278.000km like new + Lancia Flavia Coupe 1964 + RRS L494 3.0 SDV6 + C220CDI Convertible 2021

Great, thank you Meerbusch

I'll give the repair kit a try first. May not do much good, but worth a punt.

thanks all!

Dunlop compressors aren't the best either much better to stick with Hitachi.. also cheaper from your friendly forum sponsor  You can paypal direct using - www.paypal.me/duckworthparts
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Hello friends.

Update on the compressor.

So it was a Hitachi, bought a service kit and fitted today. All good... except my fault still exists.

This time I had a friend over helping me so decided to take the opportunity to stick my head under the car before the compressor fault calls a halt to things. It appears I have a leak from one of the pipes between the compressor and the driver's rear wheel... but the question is - how do I get to it!?

Has anyone fixed this before? I've read about the pipes chafing on the sub frame and appears to be quick and simple to fix (push fit connector to repair)

I can't seem to get the car high enough to get a clear reach/view of where exactly the air is escaping and I'm not keen on going under there with the engine on/suspension n action.

Any suggestions?

Cheers,

Sorry to high jack thread quick but when drilling a hole in the sintered brass exhaust how deep do you go??

I’m guessing it’s not hollow in the middle?

Also what size drill bit?

Thabks Regards

Daz

-------------------------
2011 (61plate) 4.4 tdv8
sumatra black

previous cars

e46 m3
e53 x5

Hey no worries.

I used a 4 or 5mm drill bit if I remember correctly, just enough to allow it to breathe.

Drill from the top right through the middle until there's a clear hole all the way through the centre axis.

It'll make sense when you take it off and have a look at it.