Hi Guys

I thought I would write my experience with these fault codes, as there seemed so little in general on this. Maybe I missed it as I am not always the best with computers.

I have mentioned in some previous posts, but I am new to 4.4 TDV8 ownership, and bought one I knew had faults, which I have spent time fixing. The above codes though were new since my ownership, as it did not have these when I bought it. Another job to be done.

The symptoms were fan always engaged and Restricted Performance periodically. I wasn’t sure initially the restricted performance related to this as I had other problems and faults at the time, as mentioned above. I did fix the other problems first, but the restricted performance still remained.

When I looked the codes up on here and on Google there is very little specific to these exact codes on a 4.4 TDV8, so I thought this could help some one else maybe.

What I did know is it is fan related. I checked the wiring diagram and saw one fuse to check first which was Fuse 20E in the engine bay. This was fine, so move on.

I looked at the fault code explanations in the manual and for all three codes it mentions mainly the checking of connectors, wiring and harness problems, not really a mention of fan may need replacing. I am not so good with electrical in fairness, but I spent a little while physically looking at the wires, connectors and the harness, along with earthing points that I could see. I then took connectors apart and cleaned with electrical contact cleaner, but still no change.

There was no other option in my mind then but to change the viscous fan. I looked for something on YouTube, but there didn’t seem to be anything, although I did find Sams Motor and Machine where he was replacing the alternator, which did show how he took the fan out, unfortunately the last bit was in the dark, but even with that it looked a pain of a job.

Whilst searching on here I then saw a single reply on a post from dinosaurjuice saying it could just about be done through the top without removing the cowling. Looking at what a PITA it looked using the method Sam used I decided this was my new plan.

Tools Used:

Socket Wrench with 7mm, 8mm, 10mm & 13mm sockets Plus T30 Torx.
Fan Spanner
Large Rubber Mallet
Long Reach Magnet (dropped bolts and extension bars!)
Pliers for Hoses
String
IID Tool to reset
3L Anti Freeze Premix

No Jacking up needed


Ordered an OEM fan from company local to me that ended up being a genuine item with the correct stickers, just Land Rover cut out. Cost wise it as about a third of the cost from Land Rover, £240 delivered. Also ordered fan spanner and bar to lock the bots to undo.

So my method was to remove the slam panel cross member, which I used the workshop manual for, but I did not remove the bumper or headlights. You have to be careful removing the cross member as it is under the headlight brackets/straps which I can imagine will easily break. You have to wriggle the cross member out, but it will come. As well as the bolt for the top strap of the headlights, also remove the one on the front to give movement.

Remove air boxes to give some room, along with inlet pipe and throttle body. The top hose, with the delicate connector, needs removing too. I also removed bolts from the A/C pipe secured to the front of the fan cowling, and put it on top of the engine to keep out of the way. I did not split the A/C pipes.

Now the radiator can pivot forward a small amount which I hoped would be enough for clearance.
The fan spanners turned up and I found out I ordered the wrong size, 32mm instead of 36mm. So had to wait again to the next day. Whilst waiting there was a small patch of surface rust on one of the front legs underneath where the airbox sits, so attended to that.

New spanner arrived and I was worried undoing the nut was going to be difficult. I had WD40’d the day before and again in the morning. I saw a video saying all you need is the spanner, and don’t use the bar to lock the bolts. Just put spanner in an accessible space to hit with a hammer, and one forceful hit will do it. Well he was right first hit and undone. I would say though be careful you don’t miss.

Undo fan and then it probably took me 30 mins of jiggling about trying to find a path out. There is a hard pipe just above the fan thread which you have to navigate a way around. I went right, or passenger side on a UK car, but you are restricted how far you can go because of the A/C line. If you split it I am sure this would be easier. I just rotated fan so blades missed the A/C line and then I could work the fan out through the top. I did at points stop and make sure the fan was not fowling the radiator itself, but it always had room. As you are lifting the fan up keep an eye on clearing all the pipes and wires located behind it.

Final problem was extra clearance needed for the electrical connection on the viscous unit as it got to the top of the cowl. All you can do is pull the cowling and radiator forward to get the clearance, and then suddenly the fan is clear and out. Good feeling!

One additional benefit, with the fan out you can easily lubricate the turbo bypass valve without having to get underneath.

The fitting procedure was the reverse and to be honest, except for that electrical connection clearance, it went in very easily. One important point to mention, when I uninstalled the old fan I tied string to the electrical connection as I did not know how difficult it would be to get the new connection in place without removing the cowling. This worked a treat, pulled the string at various points as the fan went in, until the connector was in place.

The final pain was reattaching the fan to the thread. It took a while for me, and does it get heavy after leaning over the front of the car for a while. Anyway job done and just reassemble in the reverse. Again be careful with those headlight bracket/straps, it does need wiggling in.

Me being me I also cleaned everything I took out, and applied a coating of some sort. Again with the engine bay, wash and clean whilst everything is out. Always easier to see leaks etc with a clean engine.


These are just my notes and sorry I have no photographs, I didn’t think about writing it up until the end. To be honest I wasn’t sure I would be successful using this method. It is not a guide and use the information at your own risk, as I said I just thought it may help showing what these fault codes were in my case, and an alternative to the official method of replacing fan, with perhaps less dismantling.

Needless to say all codes are now gone; I hope for good. Regarding the fan at least! 2011 Range Rover AB 4.4 TDV8

Excellent write up
Stan, definitely one for the Wiki  Gone to a good home: 2011 4.4 TDV8 Vogue SE Buckingham Blue with Ivory and clear glass = "Rory"
New Defender D300 90
1974 Series 3 Lightweight = "Millie"
My preferred specialist: www.glenrands.co.uk
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