A few days after buying my car (2005 4.2sc) the battery was flat. It was a cold morning and I was stuck and worse still, there was no space to jump start it from another car. I’d been working on it with the audio system playing, tailgate open, doors opening and closing and assumed that the battery wasn’t up to it. There was only one solution: a new battery.

It wasn’t until I took the old one out and charged it up that I realised it’s perfectly healthy. The problem was my tailgate interior light was on all that time because the latch required adjustment.

So lesson learned. But after reading all the battery drain issues on here I thought I don’t ever want to be in that position again and a little research brought this up on Amazon - see pic. It’s a bit bigger than a mobile phone charging pack yet it pushes out up to 1500 amps. It will jump start a 6ltr petrol engine or a 4ltr diesel. More powerful models are available if you have the 4.4 diesel. This one is the GE1500 model and cost less than £50 on Amazon. I think of it an insurance premium and it’s far better value than what I’m getting from my insurers!

I wasn’t aware that such things exist and thought others might benefit from knowing about it.

Click image to enlarge

i got a couple of these for my boys xmas presents....much better than having to trickle charge.. ... - .- -.




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So is the compass because it only works facing North ? Fuji White 2012 4.4 TDV8 Westmiinster

It’s for navigating around the engine bay Des

2005 (2006 MY) L322 4.2sc Java Black, 2010 facelift conversion
1965 Lenham Lemans GT 1310 , Gulf Racing blue, FIA spec and road legal
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Agreed great tools - I bought a similar thing from Halfords when I got stranded with a flat motorbike battery one day, starts the 4.4 diesel with no issues, and I keep it in the boot all the time

Thats great to know... I bought 2 of these to have as 'insurance' after i had a few battery problems with smaller cars ...
Taught SHMBO that if she ever had a flat battery or any neighbour has an issue - how to hook it up and what to do ........................and ......


not so much as even had a blip on any battery so that i could come to the rescue ... !

Still great to know they are there ... !!

I got something similar, since I got it I have never had a problem. However my neighbours appreciate it as does the Damsell in distress on IKEAs car asking if I could jump her - needless to say I got her going  Geoff

every mans fantasy Geoff..  ... - .- -.




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A gentleman never refuses a lady !

Hope my neighbour never asks that ….!

Everything is half price at the moment on GOOLOO website. I never knew that I wanted one but I think I'm going to treat myself.  2010 RR Autobiography 5.0SC
2020 F-Pace SVR
2018 RRS HSE Dynamic 3.0
2014 Disco XXV
2011 Disco 3.0
2009 RRS HST V8

For those who are wary of the claims for these starters here is how they manage to do the impossible -

A lead acid battery has big, smooth pieces of lead (half are 'pure' lead, half with sulphate attached) with lots of electrolyte is contact with them. A typical car battery has 6 x 2.1V cells in series, providing 12.6V when lightly loaded. When a starter motor is connected the lead plates and electrolyte interact and release lots of amps at more than 12 volts for a fraction of a second, then the electrolyte in contact with the plates is chemically changed and blocks further reaction until liquid flow/turbulence brings fresh electrolyte into contact with them. Voltage and amps drop rapidly, but the inertia of the spinning motor doesn't need as much power to keep turning, so cranking will continue for many seconds if required. The recommended current draw is typically 4C where C = Amp hour Capacity of the battery.

A LiFeO or LiPo battery has thin, roughened sheets of Lithium metal (half 'pure', half with Fe ions or calcinated) with a thin, perforated polymer plus electrolyte between them. Both the polymer and the electrolyte can carry charge to produce a little bit of power when required. The clue here is 'thin'. The insulator, Lithium, polymer/electrolyte and Fe ion/Calcated Lithium stack is very thin and each cell is a long, long, folded strip of of this stack. A little bit of power from an extremely large surface area of battery adds up to lots of power. The thin layer of electrolyte also allows rapid mixing so the reaction continues at close to its starting level for several seconds. A typical Lithium 'jump starter' has 4 x 3.6V cells or 3 x 4.2V cells in series (multiple, paralleled), providing 12.6/14.4V when lighly loaded, but maintaining >11V under load until a protection circuit cuts it off. Typical current draw is as high as 40C !

The 40C to 4C discharge ratio is what gives the Lithium jump starters an advantage when a car is in good condition, but the short overall cranking time makes them unsuitable for vehicles with problems other than just a flat battery.

bye. 2003 TD6, EGR delete, vortex crankcase breather update, performance chip, UHF 2 way, Android head unit, crash camera on dash, always-on rear view camera to mirror screen, LED DRL`s, Electric trailer brake controller. FSR replaced. Pulling 3T caravan all about Australia