Hello all,

This is my first post, however, I've been a long term lurker here using the forum for its wealth of knowledge and ideas - so firstly, thank you. It makes owning one of these wonderful beasts a bit less daunting.

I own a 2007 TDV8 in Java Black. Previously, I had a 2006 with the AJV8 which was also great, but the thirst of the engine did it for me as it was a daily driver.

A bit of background info:
- 209,000km
- Full service history from Land Rover from new. Previous owner spent a ton of money keeping it maintained, and it's been serviced religiously at the cost of too many thousands.
- I have blanked off the EGRs using the X8R Ltd kit (would highly recommend)
- I have a GAP IID BT tool.

The minor issue I am having is when I give it a bootfull up a long hill, it has a hesitation that I could only describe as a minor fluctuation in the revs, as if I'm feathering the accelerator with my foot. No dash lights, no noises, and won't do it unless I'm really giving it to it.

At first, I though it may have been a slight air leak under one of the EGR blanking plates, but I've since checked them all, and added gasket glue on one.

I plugged in the GAP IID today as I went up the same hill that it happens on, towing a trailer, and it threw the following code:

P0101-16 [28] Mass or volume air flow - circuit range/performance - General Electrical failure - circuit voltage below threshold.

I am only new to the land of diagnostics and realise that it's pointing me to the MAF, but is it something more specific that I need to look for before replacing them both? And if so, could this cause such a symptom?

Thanks so much team, and look forward to your responses.

Ben

Hi , I have the same car, and am also a new member of the forum. I don't have any experience to help you here, but a MAF clean and making sure your battery is fully able is a cheap check.

This is my first experience with RR and I have not driven many before buying my car so I don't have any reference to compare my car with. It seems to be fine, with the exception of a random whistle, (I issued a post), and I have a slight exhaust fume smell in the cabin on start up.

I will get time to give it a good going over this weekend.

It was serviced recently and has full service history, but the first thing I'm going to do is run some injector cleaner through it.I have a Volvo V70 D5 with 385kms on it which I have had for 15 years. It runs significantly better after the injector clean.

Worth doing as a service item anyway. I'm also going to do a "reconditioning" battery charge over the weekend too, to make sure that is OK.

A good injector clean might be something you want to consider. Could clear that hesitancy.

Wishing you a very happy long relationship with your FF.

Hello all,

I *may* have found the issue. Upon looking back at the EGR plates, one of the two on the actual EGR (lower one) had a wonky gasket that caused it to not torque down, leaving a pinhole air leak only visible when I removed the plate. On the underside, I could see that there were soot marks indicating exactly where it had leaked.

I applied some RTV red sealant, however, the issue persists, but what I think is happening is:

1. Air leak is tiny, and only shows itself under heavy load (towing trailer, WOT for overtaking, long hills etc)

2. When it does, it is causing air/fuel ratio to go out of whack, throwing the MAF sensor code.

3. When I clear the code using my GAP IID, it immediately goes back to normal and drives great until I have another situation above, which repeats the cycle.

I'm going to order new plates and reinstall, and see if my hypothesis is correct, however, while I wait to do this, is this a possible culprit/scenario? Can an air leak in the EGR-side plate throw a MAF code and cause the A/F to go a bit nuts?

Thanks in advance. Will report back when I've switched plates over.

I normal operation the EGR closes under load so any leak will be detimental and should be fixed but normaly it causes problems when coming off idle and geting on the power as the errant EGR flow would be a significant proportion of the intake charge but under load at higher revs I'm not so sure a small leak would be an issue. 2012 TDV8 Vogue (L322)

That’s interesting - any other ideas what would be causing it?

Check for leaks / splits on the 2 IC to intake hoses which are common fail items and maybe get a garage can do a high pressure smoke test on the intake. The issue could also be sensor related so that's worth investigating. 2012 TDV8 Vogue (L322)

Sorry, one more question - could it be battery related? I’m getting 11.5V on start up, 13.5V driving. Just did a 500km road trip and still stayed at that level. I’ve had some other weird gremlins - HDC inactive, suspension fault, etc, that go away the next start, so I’m wondering if it could also be an electrical gremlin?

Check both intercooler hoses for leaks, they do perish over time.
Clean MAF sensor with proper sensor cleaner.
11.5v is a bit low for the battery, turn all electrics, lights, seats, whatever else and check the output, the alternator should keep the voltage well above 12.5v, dodgy battery doesn't help your cause.


Will

When this happened on mine, 2007 3.6 it turned out to be one of the 4 small 90°hoses, never found out which one as I replaced all 4.
Prior to that I'd cleaned the mafs replaced the 2 intercooler hoses ect.
Might be worth a look..... Borrowed Grey 2002 3d 204k for a year
Now own a 2007 Java black Vogue SE 3.6TDV8 160k

Hello all,

Just an update on this:
As suggested, I removed all hoses and checked for any leaks. I found the driver’s side rear intake manifold one very oily underneath (the straight one, about 75mm long).

I removed the intake itself, and found 3 of the four outlets (if that’s what they’re called) sooty, but only the one oily.

Could a loose hose/ leaking hose here cause the oil? Or any ideas?

Oil vapour is always present in the intake air as the turbo seals are not perfect so oil around an intake hose is as good an indication of an air leak as any. 2012 TDV8 Vogue (L322)

That’s a good point - but wouldn’t all be oily? Or is the leak making one more oily than the other?

Oily deposits = site of air leak if between turbo and head. 2012 TDV8 Vogue (L322)

When I cleaned my doughnut, one side was oily and the other powdery if that helps.

Hello,

Another update: as mentioned, I found an oil leak at the rear intake pipe. I removed the intake and checked for cracks, cleaning it in the process, then replaced it with new hoses as I put it back on. Leak fixed. While I was in there, I also removed the EGR blanking plates, and none were leaking, so that rules that out. The battery was also replaced with a brand new one (to spec) to rule that out too.

However. Problem still persists.

Observations:
- On first start up in the morning, turn the car, cranks for half a second, then fires. Drives beautifully from first start without issue. Shifts quickly and smoothly, etc.
- After that, every time I start the car it takes longer to crank over (maybe another half-full second?), then seems to be sluggish to drive after that. Takes longer to shift down a gear going up hill, or when trying to accelerate quickly (overtaking), as well as the aforementioned hesitation under load, as well as an idle dip in drive.

I've been monitoring it on the Gap IID, and there are the following noticeable things (attached below)
- No more MAF code, however, MAF readings are out by 10-15k either side.
- Immobiliser code (has been there the entire time, unsure if it's related?)
- EGRs are blanked, but read 32% at idle after a long drive? Are they stuck open? (EDIT: I didn't map the EGRs, only blanked them. Never had an engine code, but could this contribute?)

Click image to enlarge