Since I have had the car (5 years +) diagnostics have always thrown up a glow plug relay code, but I have never done anything about it as everything has been working fine. This year, @ December 2013, the car started to take longer to start, several turns of the starter motor instead of almost instant start up. So I checked the relay, and there was a nice big click/clonk when the ignition was turned to start the car. So I then had the relay connector off and tested the juice to each of the glow plugs. No juice running through 4 out of the 6, so this seemed the likely problem (although others had pointed to fuel problems, but car was running well aside from startup). New glow plugs duly purchased from Dan @ Duckworths @ £16 a pop ( I did find cheaper afterwards on the bay of e ). I have included extracts from RAVE to assist with instructions and visuals (my efforts at taking photos down the back of the engine were pants!)

This is what a new one looks like:

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Inlet manifold off in a jiffy this week, and raising the bonnet to service mode helped a bit too (no more bumps on the head and better access over the wing)

Started on No. 2 glow plug, warm engine, lots of releasing fluid

I had bought a set of Sealey screw extractors (£6) to try out as a starting point, often known as easyouts. Had to scrabble about in my toolbox to make up a socket to turn the thing, given it had a square end, 3/8" or 1/4". A bit of jiggery pokery with my mini socket sets and an allen key and I had something to work with.

More heat, more releasing fluid a few taps with a punch to help "vibrate" the area, and started applying pressure, by "bouncing" the turn without too much pressure. It started to squeak and move! Once the thread was undone, needed a tug to get the plug out of the hole. Cleaned up fiited new plug with a bit of copper ease, connector back on, on to number 3.

Affix mole grips to top of central core and twist, it will snap off, hopefully at the base down in the glow plug, saving you having to drill out a space for the extractor.

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I sourced a left handed 7mm tap and some 7mm left handed bolts from eBay (China via Australia !) and decided to do a test run on the bench.

First off drill out the inside of the glow plug with a 6mm bit. Measure the depth you want to drill to and mark off your drill bit with a pen or tape.

Could you reverse the extractor out, put a counter (left hand) threaded tap into the hole, then put a counter threded bolt into the hole with a nut on it, tighten the nut down onto the to the top of the plug, clamping the "extractor" in place, you could the use a socket bar to remove the whole lot by screwing counterclockwise. There is nothing that can't be fixed with a hammer😜😜
FFRR 4.4 SDV8 Autobiography Santorini Black.
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That's the plan, hopefully on order a left handed tap and some left handed bolts, a tungsten carbide drill and burr to get the broken off extractor out. The easyouts have their place, but it is not for things in tight! .
Experience is the only genuine knowledge, but as time passes, I have forgotten more than I can remember
Volvo V70 P2 2006 2.4 Petrol 170bhp Estate SE
MG Midget Mk1 1962

Previous: L322 Range Rover TDV8 3.6 2008; L322 Range Rover TD6 3.0 2002; P38A Range Rover V8 1999

 There is nothing that can't be fixed with a hammer😜😜
FFRR 4.4 SDV8 Autobiography Santorini Black.
Fiat 500x 1.4 multiair Lounge 2015
2010 LR D4 Commercial 2.7 TDV6

excellent write up Tim [as usual ]..........wiki'fied. ... - .- -.




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Pity about the broken extractor but your pictures show just how much oily c p the egr system introduces into the inlet manifold and beyond. Makes you wonder who dreamed up such a stupid idea to assist in reducing exhaust emissions.
I remember the days when inlet manifolds used to be relatively clean.

can i offer some advise, if you start the engine and leave it to idle to get the engine up to temp without the manifold on then try and remove them. when i did mine they all where flexing and felt like they where going to break until i ran the engine up to temp then they came out nice and easy.

@ nicedayforit

Yes, a lot of oily muck. If I get the time the manifold will get a gunk bath but then there is all the mess in the head!

@ arron

Worth a try getting it up to temp that way, wasn't sure how it would run without the manifold in place? Also there is an electrical connector for a sensor at the back of the manifold. Had car at normal temp and running whilst I started dismantling, but I guess you can't ever have enough heat on the glow plugs can you!

Also, nice write up over on bimmerforums about the same problem

https://www.google.com/url?q=http://www.bi...2gc1vOFtUg .
Experience is the only genuine knowledge, but as time passes, I have forgotten more than I can remember
Volvo V70 P2 2006 2.4 Petrol 170bhp Estate SE
MG Midget Mk1 1962

Previous: L322 Range Rover TDV8 3.6 2008; L322 Range Rover TD6 3.0 2002; P38A Range Rover V8 1999

Ya see Joe, everyone thinks my job is easy...

Next time, try changing turbo's on a TDV8


Great write up sir

I'd have to get a TDV8 first  .
Experience is the only genuine knowledge, but as time passes, I have forgotten more than I can remember
Volvo V70 P2 2006 2.4 Petrol 170bhp Estate SE
MG Midget Mk1 1962

Previous: L322 Range Rover TDV8 3.6 2008; L322 Range Rover TD6 3.0 2002; P38A Range Rover V8 1999

FFRR 1 - 0 Joe90 .
Experience is the only genuine knowledge, but as time passes, I have forgotten more than I can remember
Volvo V70 P2 2006 2.4 Petrol 170bhp Estate SE
MG Midget Mk1 1962

Previous: L322 Range Rover TDV8 3.6 2008; L322 Range Rover TD6 3.0 2002; P38A Range Rover V8 1999

Hi Joe did you ever remove or are you still running with reduced glow plugs.
I had an odd hesitation when the engine was cold. Autodata scan suggested faulty glow plug relay so changed that, no other fault codes (except erg which is disconnected) still happening, so I've just tried to change the glow plugs once I'd got to them, all except one were dead.
5 done one has snapped below the thread with the inner electrode still protruding.
Engine starts fine, it did with 5 dead glow plugs and I've just returned from a really cold trip.

Tried to pull the electrode out and with the engine running it won't move, soaked in penetrating oil carb cleaner and freezer spray, lots of bad language etc.. So tempted to put the threaded part back in and leave it.

Else it may be head off time, anyone done that?

yorks Do I really have time to tinker with one of these

@ yorkie, nice colour.

Never went any further, have three working glow plugs or so I believe

Not really needed in our climate, but if you are having starting problems (e.g. engine turns over a fair bit before starting, problem is more likely to be injectors. Do a leak test. .
Experience is the only genuine knowledge, but as time passes, I have forgotten more than I can remember
Volvo V70 P2 2006 2.4 Petrol 170bhp Estate SE
MG Midget Mk1 1962

Previous: L322 Range Rover TDV8 3.6 2008; L322 Range Rover TD6 3.0 2002; P38A Range Rover V8 1999