Having problems with my range rover. Started the other day it went in transit fail safe mode . Now my car won't even move . Put it in reverse or drive and it just chucks it self forward and stalls . Even with foot on brake it chucks it self forward . It's like sitting on a motor bike and knocking it in gear with out using the clutch .
Car wouldn't even start today as it had a flat battery for some reason so I put another battery on and it started but is running very ruff and won't idle and now says air suspension inactive.

when you put the new battery on did turn the steering fully left and then fully right to set the steering parameters? ... - .- -.




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Nope didn't no about that . Should I disconnect the battery then re connect and start again. ?

as a starting point i would, details how to do this are in our wiki... ... - .- -.




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hi, I do not know to open a new thread, or continue here.
the diagnosis of my EGS transmission ZFHP24 is follows,

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0BwuJIrNHq...yYlJB/view

but I do not understand what it means . Could anyone please help me.
thanks

Can't read German but I think it's telling you something about a defective solenoid in the gearbox, take it to a gearbox specialist and get them to check it...

The can-bus fault is a pretty standard fault on most of our cars and isn't anything to worry about... Pete

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andrew.aa wrote:

hi, I do not know to open a new thread, or continue here.
the diagnosis of my EGS transmission ZFHP24 is follows,

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0BwuJIrNHq...yYlJB/view

but I do not understand what it means . Could anyone please help me.
thanks

Are you able to disconnect the 16-pin electrical connector at the rear of the transmission and measure the resistance between pins 4 & 16 ?

Click image to enlarge

Phil

Admin note: this post has had its images recovered from a money grabbing photo hosting site and reinstated

thank you all for the help and thank you Phil,
I have tried to measure between pin 16 and 04, although really hard work.
no there is a different location to make this measurement, for example to the pins of EGS?
in any case it seems that the solenoid is not interrupted, but I do not understand how to measure the ohms with my digital meter. even with that professional multimeter
My video shows the shift motor potentiometer test done few days ago, but the same tool between pin 16 and 04, always shows me 00.0


I homemade two female probes,to be sure insert on pin 16 and 4 correctly
As I told you Phil long time ago,the reverse problem is still present, after gearbox oil warm (Failed F clutch piston seal, I believe), and Lip home mode came out for another cause, so I think reverse problem is an independent failure
I was thinking also for the TCASE shift motor, that sometimes 'TRANS. FAILSAFE' is displayed, and is not related to the oil temperature, but as can be see seems to be ok
first time i solved with fuse 37 procedure, but now this procedure can't be done and low range can't be inserted.
I have now deleted the all errors and EGS adaptation value, and I'll do a test on the road to see what will say next diagnosis

The winding resistance of the three shift solenoids (Magnetventil) should be between 26 and 30 ohms whereas the resistance of the rotary potentiometer in the transfer box shift motor is measured in kilohms. Perhaps you have the wrong scale selected on your meter?

The ‘Magnetventil 3’ solenoid’s only job in life is to activate should the driver accidentally move the gear lever into reverse while the vehicle is travelling forward at speed. In other words it’s likely that it never gets called upon during the whole lifetime of the vehicle. When activated by the controller the solenoid pressurizes the opposite face of the reverse gear valve (RG-V) spool - thereby preventing engagement of the C & F clutches. The solenoid does however get pulsed ‘on’ when in Neutral.

Click image to enlarge

Click image to enlarge

Click image to enlarge

Click image to enlarge

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This morning I tried to do the test again, through C1835 connector at Transmission ECU as follow image
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0BwuJIrNHq...sp=sharing

unfortunately the same result: 00.0

gray tool is a digital Clamp meter and has only 200kOhm scale


and the blue one has different scales but value is always 00.0 again


where is my error?

This is going to sound stupid, but bear with me. Try turning the key on (position 2) for 60-90 seconds, then off, then start the car, turn the steering wheel lock to lock.

There is a memory calibration function that resets if you do this procedure.

As you’re only trying to measure 30 ohms you need to set your blue multimeter dial to ‘200’ but if you’re still getting a measurement of zero then this shows that you have found your problem i.e. a short somewhere in the solenoid circuit. As you were also measuring zero ohms at the 16-pin connector on the back of the transmission (between pins 4 & 16) this indicates that you have a problem with either the transmission wiring loom or with the solenoid itself.

Click image to enlarge

Click image to enlarge

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Today I tried to do another electric test, before drain the transmission fluid, and remove oil pan.

So I tried to measure the others Solenoids at C1835 CONNECTOR, as image below ,
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0BwuJIrNHq...sp=sharing
and all results are the same.
between : pin 21 and 38,26, and16 always 00.0
this result mean that wiring are good because are not interrupt, but as you think Phil, there is something like a short circuit somewhere.

The only strange thing is that transmission work properly and with solenoid short, I believe the transmission can't work
So, I think there is something else and.. what can I do Phil?

update
After many tests, I believed my multimeter be damaged, so I bought a new professional multimeter, and as I imagined, the measure was shown exact, respectively 27/28/26 ohm
my apologies to all,
So , now seems to have good solenoids.