On a few occasions over the past 3 months my 2003 TD6 would not start, then it would. Just recently the 'Roadside Assist' mechanic suggested it was worn brushes in the 12 year old fuel pump; when he removed the access cover and hit the pump body (with an adjustable spanner) while the key was in the run position the pump could be heard to start running and the engine then started immediately, as normal.

So it is time to fix or replace the pump. Meanwhile the access cover stays off and a screw driver (with a large, heavy handle) has become my pump starter. Examination of the pump in place showed it to be a sealed unit in a rubber sleeve, so fixing is out of the question, a new unit is required.

A little investigation found a HUGE range of prices for essentially the same pump. At the top end is a Pierburg 7.28217.00 for AU$650 with both a Land Rover stamp and a BMW punch mark on it, next a Pierburg 7.28217.00 with a BMW punch mark, then a genuine Pierburg 7.28217.00, Pierburg with different (but equivalent) ID numbers, Pierburg generic (with no numbers punched onto the body) and finally some chinese copies for less than 10% of the Land Rover price - AU$60. I ordered a Pierburg generic unit on ebay (DIESEL PUMP BMW 3 5 318 320 330 520 525 530 X5 3.0 D XD TD CD E39 E46 E90) for AU$95 (46GBP) after making sure it had the correct nipple sizes and electrical socket. Delivery took 7 days.

The pump is under the left rear seat with access from beneath the vehicle. Replacement is surprisingly easy, so long as you can get sufficient access underneath the left side of the vehicle. I used 2 x tall vehicle stands, 1 under each suspension arm on the left side giving ~600mm clearance.

Doing it -
Chock the right side wheels and lift the left side of the vehicle onto stands
Remove the 2 x m10 screws holding on the plastic access panel, remove the panel and set aside
Remove 2 x phililps screws from the outer plastic sleeve holder, set the screws aside
Detach the old pump (with inner rubber sleeve) from the round plastic sleeve holder
Disconnect the 2 pin electrical plug
Release the 'one time use' clamp bands from the fuel lines at each end of the pump (expand/snap/open with a flat screw driver)
Slide expanded bands along the fuel lines past the nipple barb or completely remove any snapped open bands
Twist each fuel line connection to break the grim seal (may require pliers), then remove and immediately plug each fuel line.
Remove any remaining old bands
* Remove the inner rubber sleeve from the old pump, set the pump aside
* Fit the inner rubber sleeve to the new pump
* Remove the protective covers from the inlet and outlet nipples on the new pump
Position the pump ready to install
Fit the new pump into the plastic sleeve holder and clamp with 2 x phililps screws
Slip a new clamp band over each fuel line
Remove each fuel line plug in turn and quickly push the tubes fully onto the new pump
Position and tighten the clamp bands
Connect the 2 pin electrical plug
Replace and screw up the plastic access panel
Lower and un-chock the vehicle
Test start

Parts -
Fuel Pump
2 x clamp rings

Tools -
Car stands or ramp
M10 socket or spanner
Phillips screw driver
Flat screw driver - ~5mm wide
Pliers
Tray (to catch leaking fuel)
Fuel line plugs (I used 6mm bolts with clean rag covers, wooden golf tees work too)
Suitable driver for the new clamp rings (I used a 5mm socket)
Optional - Battery Drill/Driver + 50mm extension for sockets and phillips driver

Hints -
The power plug has a release tab that must be pressed
The pump outlet tube is brittle plastic - do NOT bend
The 'one time use' clamp bands have an overlapping joint of 3 formed pins through 3 holes on one side, this can be levered open with a flat screw driver

Click image to enlarge

As an aid to my fuel Pre-Supply Pump replacement howto here is a very basic description of the whole fuel system -

The TD6 (BMW M57) Diesel Fuel Supply System consists of -
Fuel Tank - 100L (with saddle shaped bottom)
Fuel Pump - 0.4 bar (inside right of the tank)
Fuel Gauge (attached to side of Fuel Pump)
Fuel Siphon Jet Pump (inside left of the tank to lift fuel over the saddle)
Fuel Pre-Supply Pump - 3.5/7 bar, ~4L per minute (outside the tank to maintain pressure to the injector pump)
Fuel Filter
[Later models only] Fuel Volume Regulator (to reduce excess heating in the High Pressure Pump)
Fuel Common Rail High Pressure Pump - 350-1,350 bar (capable of 1,600 bar)
Fuel Pressure Regulator (to adjust pressure according to engine requirements)
Fuel Injectors
Volume/Pressure/Leak Off Return Line back to fuel tank via a cooler (fuel/air radiator)

The 0.4 bar fuel pump lifts fuel through a pre strainer from the right hand side of the saddle tank.
Most of the fuel goes to the external Pre-Supply pump, but some excess fuel volume is used to operate the 'siphon lift' from the left to the right side of the tank.
Externally the Pre-Supply Pump, Filter, [Volume Regulator], High Pressure Pump, Pressure Valve and Return Line work together to supply the correct volume and pressure for the Injectors under various operating conditions. Because there is essentially no restriction in the fuel return line the high pressure pump will have no fuel to draw on if the Pre-Supply Pump is not working.

Edit 4-Sep-2017
I've had a second failure of the pre-supply pump. This time it is not intermittent, it just won't work.
The lift pump in the tank is still going, but its low pressure and slow rate are not enough to work the pressure switch on the top of the fuel filter, so the engine will NEVER start.

So I got the original pump down off the garage shelf and checked it with a multimeter - 5 ohms motor coil resistance. Then I checked the failed replacement - infinite ohms = open circuit (broken wire INSIDE). NOT happy.

I've temporarily refitted the original; works fine (with a little persuasion) and ordered another new pump.

Here is some more data -
Lift pump in tank supplies ~ 0.5L per minute on its own at low pressure; too low a pressure to operate the pressure switch on top of the fuel filter.
Pre-supply pump increases the flow to more then 1.5L per minute at enough pressure to work the pressure switch so the engine management system will operate the injectors.

Test for confirming pre-supply pump failure -
Attempt to start normally, no fuel will be injected if pressure is too low.
Disconnect pressure switch on top of fuel filter.
Turn key to run for ~20s to allow lift pump to fill delivery pipes.
Turn key to start. Fuel WILL be injected and engine will run for 2-3 seconds until it is starved of fuel.
Turn off and re-connect pressure switch.

Pre-Supply Pump = Pierburg 7.28217.00 (03T015) (AU$80 inc) Pierburg 7.50051.60 cross references as EXACTLY the same pump.

BMW part # = 16.14-6 751 867.1BMW or 1 184 633

LAND ROVER part # = WFX 500 210


The Petrol Fuel Supply System consists of -
Fuel Tank - 100L (with saddle shaped bottom)
Fuel Pump - 3.5/7 bar (inside right of the tank)
Fuel Gauge (attached to side of Fuel Pump)
Fuel Siphon Jet Pump (inside left of the tank to lift fuel over the saddle)
Fuel Pressure Regulator (outside the tank to maintain pressure for the engine injectors)
Fuel Injectors

The 3.5 bar fuel pump lifts fuel through a pre strainer from the right hand side of the saddle tank.
The size of the fuel lines at 3.5 bar pressure will supply more fuel than the engine can use; most of the fuel goes through a filter/regulator then directly to the injectors, but excess fuel volume is used to operate the 'siphon lift' from the left to the right side of the tank.

The root cause of the pre-supply pump failure is long term wear of the commutator and carbon brushes that get the electricity to the rotating part of the electric motor. All the wear happens in one direction - where the leading edge of the commutator contacts the brushes. So a quick, temporary fix is to rotate the pump ~120° so that gravity changes where the commutator contacts the carbon brushes to a slightly different position along the wear curve.

This 'temporary' fix will continue to work for 6 months or more, allowing plenty of time to get a replacement.

Here is a picture from JohnK of his failed fuel pump motor


bye. 2003 TD6, EGR delete, vortex crankcase breather update, performance chip, UHF 2 way, Android head unit, crash camera on dash, always-on rear view camera to mirror screen, LED DRL`s, Electric trailer brake controller. FSR replaced. Pulling 3T caravan all about Australia

Last edited by bgennette on 17th Apr 2020 3:23am. Edited 1 time in total

bgennette, can you advise, what do you turn 120 degrees to reposition the brushes on the pump? do you mean rotate the pump in its mount? 2007 TDV8 VSE
2003 TD6 gone.
2002 P38a gone
1999 P38a gone
1997 p38a gone
1993 VSE gone
1992 VSE gone
1966 Series 2a with V8 conversion gone

Yes it's that simple.
Spin the pump inside its rubber holder to have the commutator leaning against different parts of the carbon brushes and it should work for several more years.

But treat this only as a short term fix. Replacement with a new pump will (eventually) be required.

bye. 2003 TD6, EGR delete, vortex crankcase breather update, performance chip, UHF 2 way, Android head unit, crash camera on dash, always-on rear view camera to mirror screen, LED DRL`s, Electric trailer brake controller. FSR replaced. Pulling 3T caravan all about Australia

Bgennette, fantastic write up, well done and thank you.

I have a related problem and need help so hoping you might spread some wisdom.

My 2003 L322 Td6 left me on the side of the road and I got towed home. I checked fuel supply to filter and it was spitting so worked back from there. Secondary pump output was also spitting as was the feed to this pump so I replaced the fuel tank pump presuming this was the problem. Unfortunately, fuel is still spitting at the filter and I have changed the secondary pump in the hope of it solving the problem, it didn't.

Any help you can offer would be great.

Thank
Mick

Hello Mick
Thankyou Martin (for the excellent forum)
Thankyou bgennette for such a complete description.

First Post from here (in France). Usually contributing (much) on a scooter forum, I try my luck asking (before contributing here too, I hope) about the Range Rover (for use on a farm of Lavander, wheat, sunflower and horses).

Received this Range Rover 2003 Td6 - as a gift (!). No fault codes, will crank but not start/run. Pitiful fuel flow to the filter, presupply pump running (well, it vibrates to the touch and makes a low noise). Fuel tank pump removed this afternoon; new battery too. Nothing horrible in the bottom of the tank. Strainer not blocked but cleaned anyway.

Thanks to bgennette it should be possible to work it out from the flow rates. If not (or not yet) this vehicle might be in the same state as Mick's. Say Mick. . . .what caused yours to refuse to start after two new pumps anyway?

I'll post back here once this one's running, to add to what is (already) a great thread.
Yours, Matthew (scottish actually who once saw a European Gennette in the wild, not far from here).