Hi guys,

Suffered an issue today that ended with the car being recovered back home after the AA were unable to shed any light on the fault.

Basically I was driving on a 60mph road close to my house and, after letting the engine and turbos warm up as normal, I stamped my foot down on the accelerator to give the car a good run on the open road. At around 60mph (in Sport mode) and simultaneous to the upshift from the 8 speed box, there was a very noticeable judder and immediate loss of power. The dash lit up with 'Engine System Fault' and the car went into limp mode where it stuck to 35mph and 1,200rpm. I immediately headed back towards home and the car lasted another 2-3 miles before it finally spluttered to a halt.

I let the car cool down and tried to start the car again, all I got was just endless cranking over without it starting. The AA guy managed to manually override the gearbox so we could get the car into neutral and push it to the kerb. Since then, I'm getting a 'Gearbox Fault' message coming up on the dash. Now when I try to start the car, upon cranking the digital dash/dials black out completely as though there's a power issue.

As far as I was told, the AA's diagnostic tablet came up with a few faults relating to fuel pressure and numerous others which weren't noted down - but I'm really at a loss to figure out what's causing this problem.

The car is still under third party warranty for another month after I purchased it from an independent dealer around two months ago so, hopefully, I won't have to fork out for an expensive repair. I could really do with some advice as to what the issue may be.

Any ideas?

Thanks.

Dunno Ant, but whatever it is you need it done under warranty right?

Sounds like three different things. But you need to get LR diagnostics on it, don't know if AA have the right gear (no idea).

An IIDTool, or one of the Prop tools an Indy would have, could tell you what's going on.

Get it recovered to the dealer you bought off?

. Cheers, Greg
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2011 Vogue SE 4.4 with lots of toys in Stornaway

I'm going with gonna_go, get it recovered to your dealer and tell them to fix it. You should, I believe under legislation, have six months, irrespective of their arguments, to have them repair any fault which may have been present or developing at the time of your purchase.


Don't accept a put off and keep us all up to date with progress. Cheers
Richard

(there are no such things as an ordinary FullFat, an ordinary cat or too many tools)
2011 TDV8 Vogue Santorini Black
Gap IIDBT

The gearbox fault is almost certainly because its been put manually into neutral to move it. I'm not sure if the manual says how to revert this or not.

Without fault codes there is no way we can give you a steer on what it might be.

I agree, if it is under warranty your first call has to be to the warranty company, closely followed by the supplying dealer.
The warranty company will tell you whether they want the car to go to a main dealer or the supplying dealer (if they are independent), but you do have some say in this (e.g. if the main dealer is just round the corner, but the place you bought it from is 150 miles away).

Let us know how you get on, and what it was. Too many toys, not enough time

2011 4.4 TDV8 AB Black

Struggling with this.

Bought a diagnostic reader as a last resort as it's going to cost me a fortune to get it towed to the nearest garage or where I bought it from.

Anyway, the reader isn't coming up with any fault codes whatsoever even though the car now won't crank at all. There definitely now also seems to be some kind of electrical issue as there are all kinds of messages stating certain features are inoperable when the ignition is on (ABS, suspension etc).

Really at a loss, I don't know what to do next.

If the battery is low then various non-critical systems that use significant power will be shut down, eg the suspension system. Can you monitor battery voltage with the ignition on then also while trying to crank?

Can you be sure there is adequate fuel in the tank? If one of the sender units in the tank has failed then the gauge may be lying. The fuel filter could be mostly blocked.

What brand diagnostic tool did you buy? If it is generic then it may not be capable of extracting the fault codes from this vehicle.

GraemeS wrote:

If the battery is low then various non-critical systems that use significant power will be shut down, eg the suspension system. Can you monitor battery voltage with the ignition on then also while trying to crank?

Can you be sure there is adequate fuel in the tank? If one of the sender units in the tank has failed then the gauge may be lying. The fuel filter could be mostly blocked.

What brand diagnostic tool did you buy? If it is generic then it may not be capable of extracting the fault codes from this vehicle.

sender units are a known issue.
My gauge was up down all over the place.
. Cheers, Greg
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2011 Vogue SE 4.4 with lots of toys in Stornaway

Cheap bluetooth readers won't give you real LR DTC's - you need an IID. ANYONE near you can plug an IID and check the codes for you - they just can't make changes to your vehicle. Land Rover Addict
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I would charge the battery overnight and see if it starts cranking again. If it does, check the fuel gauge reading as mentioned above. On pre-facelift cars (not digital dash) the sender issue is annoying (ask me how I know) but I don't think it causes issues with running. I'm sure I read on here though that on later cars it can cause faults if the car thinks the fuel level is too low.

eg 2011 fuel gauge 2016 Skoda Octavia VRS Estate
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<gone>2015 BMW 520D SE (not my favourite car)</gone>
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Flack is a Disco 4 forum sister site sponsor
Mobile mechanic based in Preston
http://www.disco4.com/forum/member-flack.html
Give him a shout. He has IID Pro diagnostics  2011 4.4 TDV8 Vogue SE Buckingham Blue with Ivory and clear glass = "Rory"
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My preferred specialist: www.glenrands.co.uk
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These are the readings taken by my diagnostic tool. Not sure if there are any glaring issues here?

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I’d start with checking the basics first.
Charge the battery, check the terminals are tight and pour a gallon of diesel into the tank.
If the fuel sender unit is at fault the car will still start as long as there is fuel in the tank.

That's the high pressure fuel pump, probably cavitating due to getting air instead of fuel. Put fuel in the tank before trying to start lest you damage the pump, hopefully not already done.

The battery is a tad small but will probably suffice.