That’s correct.

Squealing is a different animal to cage 2007 3.6 TDV8

"Replaced the dampers on the top of the struts - joy! "

The Damper your talking about looks like just a heavy lump thats not going to fail, so is there a bush or something built in that fails?

still trying to get this thread to dan but not sure how too

Just copy the link to this thread and start a new thread in the Duckworths channel referencing it? Or send him a PM with the link? 2016 Skoda Octavia VRS Estate
<gone>2009 FF Vogue TDV8 Buckingham Blue</gone>
<gone>2015 BMW 520D SE (not my favourite car)</gone>
<gone>2009 D3 HSE Galway Green</gone>

sounds easy but you are talking to a halfwit tehcnophobe

Here's the link you need:

http://www.fullfatrr.com/forum/viewtopic.p...847#477847

PM that link to Dan. 2016 Skoda Octavia VRS Estate
<gone>2009 FF Vogue TDV8 Buckingham Blue</gone>
<gone>2015 BMW 520D SE (not my favourite car)</gone>
<gone>2009 D3 HSE Galway Green</gone>

Keep in mind that I fitted the new dampers after fitting new struts.

I couldn’t get the dampers off the old struts, so ordered new ones in the end.

The dampers are loctited on, so very difficult to remove (particularly with the strut on the vehicle). 2007 3.6 TDV8

thanks for your help mate

The six pot calipers on my 4.4 TDV8 seem prone to this.
I think the 'stick-slip' vibration at very low speed is caused by differing coefficients of friction values for static and dynamic conditions. Theory is great but finding a practical resolution can be a pita. Usually a mass is added to 'oppose the forces' at the vibration frequency, or an elastomeric component introduced to reduce the transmission of said vibration.
The 'simplest' solution is to change the composition of the friction material. Interesting that JLR have not taken that path. Forty years of progress. 1972-2012

cheezels wrote:

Keep in mind that I fitted the new dampers after fitting new struts.

I couldn’t get the dampers off the old struts, so ordered new ones in the end.

The dampers are loctited on, so very difficult to remove (particularly with the strut on the vehicle).

^^^

How much heat?

Hair Dryer / Paint Stripper Gun / Blowtorch (handheld) / Welding Torch ? .
Experience is the only genuine knowledge, but as time passes, I have forgotten more than I can remember
Volvo V70 P2 2006 2.4 Petrol 170bhp Estate SE
MG Midget Mk1 1962

Previous: L322 Range Rover TDV8 3.6 2008; L322 Range Rover TD6 3.0 2002; P38A Range Rover V8 1999

I think it’s Loctite 648, LR calls for STC5055 which cross references to Loctite 648 and can be seen in most of the pictures selling STC5055

The data sheet is here: https://tdsna.henkel.com/NA/UT/HNAUTTDS.ns...648-EN.pdf


1) Remove with standard hand tools.
2) If needed, apply localized heat to the assembly to approximately 250 °C. Disassemble while hot.
3) If this temperature is not possible, heat as much as possible and use mechanical aids.

I used a good hot air gun with a small directional nozzle, once it got over 200 I just screwed it off with some welders gloves. No idea if it would have gone earlier as I didn’t try it. This was with the strut off the car and on the bench, nothing else really got that warm.

Wish I had known originally, had some rather large bars and industrial impact guns on it and it didn’t even look like it would budge - it’s insanely great stuff!

If I remember right they are fairly expensive to buy especially when you are already forking out on OEM parts, I had it in bits as one of our bags failed.