Hi Gen IIIer's
Bought my MY05 with 55,000miles and have been loving it for the first month.
Tonight it stranded me in the rain by locking the brakes on, directly after a small traction control actuation on a wet roundabout.

As soon as Stability control kicked in the 2 faults jumped on as below, and brakes seized on so that I could just drive off the road and no more - brakes stayed locked on.
*HDC inactive* & *Air Susp Inactive*

Couldnt clear them, although a 15m battery unplug cleared it, I got back in happy and 2kms down the road same thing. I couldnt pull over quickly and had to run it hard with the brakes applying themselves pretty hard, when I jumped out they were glowing......

This time I pulled the ABS and DSC fuses and battery, once back in the faults cleared and I drove home, but now my brakes go 3/4 to the floor before working, and only barely.

1. Anyone had a L322 lock on brakes like HDC was trying to slow them down?
2. Why would my brake pedal go so far down - burnt the pads/discs down to far, or somthing simpler?

Thanks in advance
CBH

Quote:

1. Anyone had a L322 lock on brakes like HDC was trying to slow them down?

Quote:

2. Why would my brake pedal go so far down - burnt the pads/discs down to far, or somthing simpler?

Quote:

when I jumped out they were glowing......

Thanks for the info.
Is theabs sensor behind the rim, out above the strut next to the airbag.

I don't think its abs, since there was no abs error.
The error listed was HDC (which obviously also activates the brakes).

Took it out today and it ran perfectly, until I again purposely got it sliding on a r.a.b and it went straight to error mode and locked ask for brakes.....
Anyone had this HDC error.
IM going to try and bleed the brakes by myself tmrw, wish me luck. L322 4.4 Vogue MY03 - Her name is Bulletproof .... you already know she's not
L322 4.4 Vogue MY05 - Sold to my brother
P38 4.6 HSE MY97 - Regretfully sold

The ABS sensors on the front stick into the hub and are visible from the front when looking at the hub. The wire tracks up and round to the rear side of the strut, through a holder on the strut which also holds the brake pipe and then up against the inside of the wheel well where is connector is placed inside a black box thingie with a flap up lid.

ABS, DSC and HDC are all linked together cause they all essentially work through the ABS modulator to control the brakes, and all use the wheel speeds to decide what to do. I've found that the HDC would ping up on the dash even when I had an issue with the ABS unit itself.

You say that it drives normally ... does that include normal braking? Its time to start logically trying things. Do you have any diagnostic hardware? Really need to know that actual error the ECU is throwing.

Its interesting that in your 2 posts is that its been triggered when you get it sliding on cornering. Potentially pointing to the DSC kicking in, and when it does throwing the error.

Personally, I would be trying a couple of things to see if the error throws:

Heading along a gravel track ( or loose surface ) and slam the brakes to force ABS to kick in when going in a straight line. Does the error occur when the ABS kicks.

Gravel track / loose surface pull the wheel round and slam the brakes - ABS kicks in on cornering - error thrown?

Standing start on loose surface - plant the throttle and see if traction control kicks in - does the error throw?

Starting start, loose surface, wheel on full lock - plant throttle - error thrown when TC kicks in?

Enable hdc on smooth road and steep hill in a straight line and see if error throws when the HDC starts to apply brakes.

As above but see if you can get HDC to kick in when the front wheel is turned to one side. V8 or else ...

This is an amazingly detailed post just to help someone out.
Thanks very much

I will try a few of these tmrw, after the fluid flush.
Im just worried that one of these times it won't come out of its error/lock state. L322 4.4 Vogue MY03 - Her name is Bulletproof .... you already know she's not
L322 4.4 Vogue MY05 - Sold to my brother
P38 4.6 HSE MY97 - Regretfully sold

Deleted double post L322 4.4 Vogue MY03 - Her name is Bulletproof .... you already know she's not
L322 4.4 Vogue MY05 - Sold to my brother
P38 4.6 HSE MY97 - Regretfully sold

That's the thing, having a bit of hardware to reset things can really help and gives you some confidence to try things that will generate an error. There are plenty of links on here with a search to some tools that can read and reset errors. They are a worthwhile investment. ( I ponied up for a faultmate years ago before the alternatives were as good as they are now )

My thoughts on the tests above were to try and see if it's steering position related, DSC sensor related, or just anytime the abs modulator tries to do something over and above normal braking from the pedal. V8 or else ...

I did a brake fluid flush on all for wheels.

Afterwards the brake pedal still is soft and travels much further before the brakes locked on taking up.
Anyone know what would cause the pedal to go down much further than before?

Fisha: was able to get the straight line abs activating and traction control in some mud. Both worked fine and didn't throw the errors .
So I'm down to back to the Dynamic Stability Control activation during cornering, is the main cause of the brake lock up and error. L322 4.4 Vogue MY03 - Her name is Bulletproof .... you already know she's not
L322 4.4 Vogue MY05 - Sold to my brother
P38 4.6 HSE MY97 - Regretfully sold

I'm not sure that it's relevant in this case, but your model year has a reputation for the calipers binding, but usually just on one wheel, a rear, and not throwing up any warnings.

Good luck with it anyway, I'm sure you'll sort it soon.  2012 SDV8 Vogue SE

Sounds to me like your brake servo has given up... Previously..
Vogue SE TD6
Defender 90 2.4
Defender 110 TD5
Vogue 3.5 EFI

Thanks
Would the brakes still work OK with a dead servo, just alot lower down the pedal travel? L322 4.4 Vogue MY03 - Her name is Bulletproof .... you already know she's not
L322 4.4 Vogue MY05 - Sold to my brother
P38 4.6 HSE MY97 - Regretfully sold

If the brake servo wasn't working the pedal would be a lot harder. No longer FF owner but still interested. Present car Jaguar XE
............................................

Previous car Td6 SE
................................

Previous LR- Disco 300TDi Auto

Not saying completely dead, just faulty. If you are sure that you have bled the system properly, then the only reason for a soft pedal and long travel is the servo..

Edit... When I say servo, I meant master brake cylinder/servo assy.. Previously..
Vogue SE TD6
Defender 90 2.4
Defender 110 TD5
Vogue 3.5 EFI

OK, this sounds a lot like an issue I had with my old Merc E55. The bit about causes looks to have been covered extensively above and the bottom line there is to get a fault code reader/clearing unit.

Anyway, soft pedal. I had this with a 2004 Merc E55 after a bout of "Spirited driving" and it took the main dealer 3 goes to fix it. The actual fix was the ABS pump which is a large block shaped thing, or was on the Merc. Anyway, all cars with ABS have these things and they all work in pretty much the same way. Mercs also have the EBA function which increases pedal pressure with the use of this ABS pump in emergency situations. In fact, almost all things such as HDC, Traction Control, Stability Control, ABS etc etc, every one of them uses the ABS pump to generate the brake fluid pressure which is the power to all these types of system.

The inner workings are a high pressure pump, a set of electronically controlled valves which direct fluid (and release it) to all 4 corners of the car whilst reading the signals from each wheel sensor. One of these internal valves had gone awry on mine which was causing fluid bleedback and thus a soft pedal.

Which brings the last point about brake fluid flushing. If you think you can do this yourself then think again. Yes, you can bleed through the pipes but without the test bed to activate the ABS pump you can never flush that bit through. I absolutely know this from experience of trying to do it. You need a way to force the ABS pump to run whilst the car is stood still. Also, they aren't exactly cheap so you need a positive diagnosis before changing the unit out.

If it was my car I would have it at the garage ASAP. Unless you are going to invest in something like a Faultmate it's all guesswork, .... on brakes. If you've checked/replaced/confirmed the function or condition of the pads, discs and all the wiring which goes with the ABS sensors, and you are 100% positive there's no air in the fluid, you are at the point where you need diagnostic equipment to check the function of the various ECUs and ABS pump. My money is on the latter being U/S

Good luck.
Dom.

Thanks all, appreciate the time and effort in the replies.

Took it to a LR Indy today, and they said there was an ABS fault, but thinks that was because I disconnected battery during the error process..... didnt seem too concerned about the ABS issue.

They re-bled the brakes manually and on the computer and say that's fine.
I really hope the computer test would have ruled out the ABS block fault, sounds expensive....

So they're getting a quote for a Master Cylinder replacement, in the mean time, my brakes are still very soft.
Thanks L322 4.4 Vogue MY03 - Her name is Bulletproof .... you already know she's not
L322 4.4 Vogue MY05 - Sold to my brother
P38 4.6 HSE MY97 - Regretfully sold