TheAllSeeingPie wrote:

What's the redline on a TDV8 anyway (and what do they top out at)? Just hold it near without going over in 3rd? On my SC the redline varies depending on gearbox temps, which is a bit annoying :/

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Doesn't work as you need it to be pushing as hard as possible to clear it its more to do with the heat burning it off than anything else  FFRR MY06 facelift With TDV8 Alloys Zeros/ATR's
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tomthevet wrote:

Scarey stuff on here sometimes:

120mph on presumed public roads is one thing

Clearing a possibly sticking wastegate by giving full boost for prolonged period is another. If stuck open the turbo bearings/wastegate opening and valve all working at beyond factory limits possibly leading to premature failure.
If stuck closed then overboosting causing limp home mode but not before the whole inlet tract has seen excessive boost pressures combined with not enough fuel to cool it all down damaging valves etc etc.

And besides please learn to left foot brake if you need to get max boost in gear. In my integrale days it was common for the wastegate adjustment and recirculating valve adjustment to drift with time so it was left foot braking in third for max boost to be adjusted either in car or by adjusting the pieburg valve then going again. All done at maybe 40mph. Couldnt be done in 1st or second as the ecu limited boost til third.

Johnny I dont think the boost goes higher in top gear just that it is used for more prolonged periods. The boy racer specials after all often are simply plumbed with direct boost activated waste gates so open at a set pressure. Obviously the imprezas and the like are different in each gear but still predetermined by the springs on the waste gate actuator with maybe an overboost bleed to allow slight increase at full throttle.

Anyway I may be wrong about the boost limits in each gear in the L322 but still no substitute for a little mechanical sympathy!

I am not talking stock cars, more the modded type with aftermarket electronic boost controllers, even after setting up a car on my close to £100K dyno we always road test to make sure everything is OK and its amazing in the difference between a dyno and on road conditions, we often get a higher boost reading in a higher gear than is healthy. One day your life will flash before your eyes......................................make sure yours is worth watching!

Real world and dynos are very different no matter what anyone says. Thats why it took me an engine and a fair bit of time to get my LPG mapping right and still never thought it was perfect but just stuck to base boost and still made 330bhp and a good dollop of torque from my coop  FFRR MY06 facelift With TDV8 Alloys Zeros/ATR's
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Modern ecu's have a lot of safety built into them, you get what you pay for. One day your life will flash before your eyes......................................make sure yours is worth watching!

True but the LPG was running its own ecu just piggybacking the ignition pulses from the main one  FFRR MY06 facelift With TDV8 Alloys Zeros/ATR's
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Don't think this ones right in the head!!!

JAYBOY wrote:

it never went over 100 mph so boost pressure would never have got to maximum boost

tomthevet wrote:

And besides please learn to left foot brake if you need to get max boost in gear

You wont get max boost for very long though in modern stuff. FFRR MY06 facelift With TDV8 Alloys Zeros/ATR's
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I suspect you will. They aren't all running 2 bar and revving to 8.5k ...

Doubt it. Hook up a boost gauge and you'll see most peak quick enough but then settle back down just as quick and don't stay at FULL boost but reduced boost for a while.. FFRR MY06 facelift With TDV8 Alloys Zeros/ATR's
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I see what you mean - it will peak and then drop/raise/hold to keep to the determined torque figure as necessary. You will certainly see the maximum boost figure in normal driving.

True but you need it to be for as long as possible to get the kind of temps needed to burn some carbon build up off in a diesel engine.

in a petrol its very easy. I could often get a red hot turbo in my coop before i upgraded the turbo but at that point you get sh@ performance as well and det so not so good... FFRR MY06 facelift With TDV8 Alloys Zeros/ATR's
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I thought the Coop was a shop very popular in Switzerland I believe...

This kind of coop silly

 FFRR MY06 facelift With TDV8 Alloys Zeros/ATR's
Mantec Sump Guard, Rigid Load liner, MY10 BT upgrade.