Thats interesting.
Hopefully you will find the cause of you problems.

Since my manual is italian, I resorted to the doc you sent me and had 2 questions :
I have F25 installed and I have a TD6 (igntion switch?). In the doc, it states that it's for V8.
Also, F7 is installed, and the doc tells me it's unused...
I also now have a "select neutral" "slow down" message each time I start. It turns off after a few meters.
BTW, do you know where I can find an electronic version of the owner's manual in french?



thanks! 2008 TDV8 VOGUE - Buckingham Blue on Sand

Fuse 25 is immobiliser
Fuse 7 is unused

No idea about the message on start -up.
I don't know if the Workshop Manual is available in French.

Can you not use Google Translate to translate an Italian or English version into French?

Thanks for the feedback
- F25 so you confirm it's used on TD6 models?
- F7 what's strange is that there's a 5A fuse in and it has a suspension icon (I suppose) on it...

As for the owner's manual, I'm perfectly ok with a UK version, the only thing is that I'm afraid about the cars being differently configured in different countries (I don't speak italian but had understood it this way...) 2008 TDV8 VOGUE - Buckingham Blue on Sand

Fuse 25 is shown in TD6 Vehicle Handbook as immobiliser whereas in the Vehicle wiring diagrams Fuse 25 is not shown in TD6 wiring diagram.
It is however shown in the V8 vehicle wiring diagram as ignition switch.
I wouldn't like to say which is correct, you could always take the fuse out and see if the car starts.
Fuse 7 is definitely listed in both documents as unused.

The car does start with 25 removed. I'll also not put back 7 & see. 2008 TDV8 VOGUE - Buckingham Blue on Sand

before you do any more testing replace the FSR
You have been told to do this numerous times but have failed.

At this point the FSR can turn on and off as it sees fit,
as it is ,
a replacement wont hurt anything if the old part is good you will have a spare,
but you really cant test the FSR except by finding a dead battery.
OR fitting a new part and not finding a dead battery.

Replace the FSR NOW

Do you have wipers on your headlamps?
If so pull the headlamp wiper fuse start the truck shut it off then replace the fuse start the truck again the wipers should reset. If the wipers dont reset remove the fuse and leave it out.

Replace the FSR NOW

Does the sleep light go out after 23 mins?
have you checked that it is infact staying out?
After an hour or 2 or 3hr?

Replace the FSR NOW

Park your truck facing the opposite way this will change the airbag imbalance if you have one.

Replace the FSR NOW

where do you leave your keys?
they should be further than 20 feet from you truck at all times unless your driving it.

Replace the FSR NOW

Have you ever replaced the battery in the key?
If so did you make absolutely sure you have replaced the small plastic chip in the same location from where it came ,
If your not sure about this then you need to open the key and see .


Replace the FSR NOW


You can find a good FSR on Ebay for about 65.00 US.

Please report back after you have replaced the FSR
Also buy a new OHM meter and read the instructions that comes with it

links to good FSR available

http://www.ebay.com/itm/BMW-HVAC-Heater-Bl...mp;vxp=mtr



http://www.ebay.com/itm/BMW-HVAC-HEATER-BL...mp;vxp=mtr


link to replace the FSR





Last edited by Mrmerlin on 23rd Mar 2013 8:37pm. Edited 3 times in total

Might also be a good idea to replace the FSR.  Agueroooooooooo. 93-20
I swear you will never see anything like this ever again....watch it..drink it in.

Mr merlin, what a great first post !
About the fsr, the numerous tests done in the beginning seemed to indicate that it was out of cause. I understand the post is huge and you may have missed it.
On the other points:
No light wipers, no lights stay alive (I often test on the evening), drain happens wherever the car is parked and whether or not the keys far and the transponder is in the key (otherwise the car wouldn't start).
Btw, my previous diagram was false, I'll update very soon but I'm left with 4 fuses to draw for the battery not to drain... 2008 TDV8 VOGUE - Buckingham Blue on Sand

Ok thanks.
You will find me at this link if you so care to jump around
http://www.rangerovers.net/forum/


Please replace the FSR dont do anything else till this is done as you have no way to figure it out,
unless a fresh part is installed . Even though you tested it this part can turn itself on at different times and kill the battery.



NOTE pulling the fuse might work but at this stage the FSR is the primary part that causes an unwanted battery drain.

I gave you links to buy one .

as far as the key goes,the transponder has a special position,
thats why i mentioned it,
just having the part in the key doesnt mean its in its correct position and not being able to turn the key is the usual case where the part either fell out or was replaced in the incorrect position.

Also the ignition switch may sense your key nearby thats why i mentioned to keep it away from the truck when its parked,
that way the truck will go to sleep

Ok, I think I'll get one tomorrow or so. Btw, fuses left are 9 11 12 13. 2008 TDV8 VOGUE - Buckingham Blue on Sand

This might be of interest to you.
Range Rover Sports can also suffer battery drain problems. One item which is apparently common is current drainage caused by a corroded rear tailgate lock.
Change the lock, problem disappears.
I see one of the fuses you have yet to check is fuse 11, central locking.
I don't know if the same lock is used on RRS and FFRR but it's worth a consideration.

Thanks, indeed, will look for corrosion in this area.
I'm now left with these 3., will continue tests this afternoon or tonight.
F11 Drivers door module (indeed doesn't close when I remove the fuse but all other doors do)
F12 HeVAC control unit (yeah I know Mr Merlin, next again on my list )
F13 Transmission selector indicator lamp, Steering angle sensor, Clock.

So is really F11 related to the tailgate? 2008 TDV8 VOGUE - Buckingham Blue on Sand

Correction, it's the tailgate switch not the tailgate lock.
My mistake.

Instead of messing around with multimeters, just use a clamp meter. 10 times easier.

When I was a fork truck engineer, these were so handy to find current drains- just hook it around the cables:

Click image to enlarge

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