Damn, it has only been in there @ 18months and I copper-eased it on the way in. (Perhpas it explains why they were not fitted to the car when I bought it, but I didn't like the idea of the discs simply "floating", even though held in place by the pads and wheelnuts/wheel.

On attempting to remove, allen key just burred the edges. Hammered next size up into the hole, but that just span too.

Plan is to use a small cold chisel to create a notch, then use an impact driver on it. May apply low level heat from paint stripper gun too.

Any other brute force suggestions welcome  .
Experience is the only genuine knowledge, but as time passes, I have forgotten more than I can remember
Volvo V70 P2 2006 2.4 Petrol 170bhp Estate SE
MG Midget Mk1 1962

Previous: L322 Range Rover TDV8 3.6 2008; L322 Range Rover TD6 3.0 2002; P38A Range Rover V8 1999

Last edited by Joe90 on 5th May 2013 11:52pm. Edited 1 time in total

A small pin type chisel to get it moving

Blow torch to crack it.

Blow torch to crack it.

Don't have super heat e.g. blow torch, so will report back on small chisel approach  .
Experience is the only genuine knowledge, but as time passes, I have forgotten more than I can remember
Volvo V70 P2 2006 2.4 Petrol 170bhp Estate SE
MG Midget Mk1 1962

Previous: L322 Range Rover TDV8 3.6 2008; L322 Range Rover TD6 3.0 2002; P38A Range Rover V8 1999

Big drill bit to get head off.

Once disc is off saw a nice DEEP slot in it and use a socket set with flat blade on the end to ease it out.
A light tap on the top of it if its still sticking can help release it.

To be honest I don't bother with coper slip anymore and stick with high melting point Castrol grease  FFRR MY06 facelift With TDV8 Alloys Zeros/ATR's
Mantec Sump Guard, Rigid Load liner, MY10 BT upgrade.

If you ever get it out, when (if) you put a new one in copper grease and then only finger tight when turning in.
They are only there as a safety item in case you have a wheel come off for any reason, it happens all the time , so that the disc stays in situ.
Totally un-necessary imo and frequently a nuisance.

When I had the same problem with my P38, I drilled the head off, and then once the disc was removed, the bit left behind was easy to remove with mole grips.

I didn't bother replacing them, waste of time IMO.

Cheers

Jerry

A few taps with a suitably sized cold chisel got it moving

(Sorry about crap photos)


I seems it had only rusted in place around the outside edge of the plug as the thread was all still nicely copper eased:

It will probably wash off after a few washes though Joe as the water will run past it when the alloys are on  FFRR MY06 facelift With TDV8 Alloys Zeros/ATR's
Mantec Sump Guard, Rigid Load liner, MY10 BT upgrade.