I replaced my thermostat last winter, but now the weather has got cold again, my car is taking an age to warm up (15/20 miles of driving), needle drops to the left if I go down hills or stand in traffic for a while.

Is this classic thermostat? It was a third party one not LR provided ("saved" £18 )

I ask, because I know that my FBH has stopped working (fuel pump) and wondered if this was a contributing factor. As I understand it, the FBH comes on from startup, but only runs to get engine coolant up to a certain temperature and then doesn't come on again?

Anything else it could be?

(Let's bear in mind it is a 1.5 hour job just to get to the 'stat!) .
Experience is the only genuine knowledge, but as time passes, I have forgotten more than I can remember
Volvo V70 P2 2006 2.4 Petrol 170bhp Estate SE
MG Midget Mk1 1962

Previous: L322 Range Rover TDV8 3.6 2008; L322 Range Rover TD6 3.0 2002; P38A Range Rover V8 1999

You should have spent that extra £18 and bought the real deal.

I have never found a 'cheap part' that actually saved me money

I think the FBH will come on for as long as is needed, if the weather is very cold then I would not be surprised to find it running constantly to provide extra (read sufficient) heat to warm the cabin. Possibly you need to get your thermostat fixed and your FBH as well...

deleted as superfluous double post..

Last edited by simon1233 on 6th Dec 2012 1:16pm. Edited 1 time in total

Simon you must have the same phone as me as you like your double posts. SAMSUNG S3? Present :2008 TDV8 HSE
Gone Audi A5 2.7TDI
Gone Discovery 3 HSE
Gone Mercedes CLK
Gone Range Rover 2.5 DSE

Nope Googsy - I seem to get this when I hit the 'back' button on my Mac - stupid tinterweb...

ahhh windoze 7 and Nightly work a treat!! ANYWAY back on topic!

I've not come across the symptom like yours Joe. Hows the viscous fan running? Do the pipes feel cold when you pull up and check? does the heater matrix for the cabin kick out enough heat?

Your FBH SHOULD kick in when its needed, especially in cold climates where it would almost always be on due to the fan drawing air over the rad...

Maybe time to get a Muff  FFRR MY06 facelift With TDV8 Alloys Zeros/ATR's
Mantec Sump Guard, Rigid Load liner, MY10 BT upgrade.

Thanks for the replies guys.

Never enough time (or light) to lift the bonnet and feel pipes but will make the effort. No trouble getting heat into the cabin. Face level vents (if specific button pressed) start kicking out warm air after @ 1 mile of driving, this doesn't seem to drop off when the needle heads left.

Must whack FBH fuel pump with hammer, see if that will kick start it! .
Experience is the only genuine knowledge, but as time passes, I have forgotten more than I can remember
Volvo V70 P2 2006 2.4 Petrol 170bhp Estate SE
MG Midget Mk1 1962

Previous: L322 Range Rover TDV8 3.6 2008; L322 Range Rover TD6 3.0 2002; P38A Range Rover V8 1999

Ahh that would be the clarkson method of remedial activity eh??!!  FFRR MY06 facelift With TDV8 Alloys Zeros/ATR's
Mantec Sump Guard, Rigid Load liner, MY10 BT upgrade.

Did you end up fitting a new thermostat as I have exactly the same problem with mine? Changed it in Feb this year with a stat from German and Swedish, in the last week it's struggling to get over 70 degrees after 45 minute drive. When I did mine the first time I damaged the water pump and had it strip it all down twice, so at least it's now well rehearsed. But still a load of hassle 2012 4.4TDV8 VSE
2004 TD6 132k miles- SOLD
1995 Land Rover Defender 110 Tithonus Ex Military
1995 Land Rover Discovery 3.9i V8 manual

Left thermostat in, but fitted new rad, new thermal valve (on top of the EGR) and new coolant tank. Also removed the viscous fan. Been solid as a rock so far, but need some colder mornings and the long downhill on my journey to work to finally confirm a resolution. Also, when testing new rad, engine came up to temperature and then ran for another ten minutes or more (standing on drive) before the bottom hose warmed up, so thermostat is working.... .
Experience is the only genuine knowledge, but as time passes, I have forgotten more than I can remember
Volvo V70 P2 2006 2.4 Petrol 170bhp Estate SE
MG Midget Mk1 1962

Previous: L322 Range Rover TDV8 3.6 2008; L322 Range Rover TD6 3.0 2002; P38A Range Rover V8 1999

Last edited by Joe90 on 8th Nov 2013 10:06pm. Edited 1 time in total

Have you had any work done on the gearbox oil cooler, such as replacement? I had an after market cooler fitted and the redundant coolant pipes were just plumbed in together, creating a bypass to the main engine thermostat causing over cooling.
Just a thought...

No work done on transmission oil cooler .
Experience is the only genuine knowledge, but as time passes, I have forgotten more than I can remember
Volvo V70 P2 2006 2.4 Petrol 170bhp Estate SE
MG Midget Mk1 1962

Previous: L322 Range Rover TDV8 3.6 2008; L322 Range Rover TD6 3.0 2002; P38A Range Rover V8 1999

Thanks for the replies. I have replaced the thermostat, EGR valve and water pump. I have drained and flushed the coolant too. It was spot on over summer as I routinely turned on the temp read out on the menu and it sat at 88degrees most of the time and over the last month it's quickly deteriorated. No other modifications or repairs. I keep thinking of the hassle of striping that front all down again. 2012 4.4TDV8 VSE
2004 TD6 132k miles- SOLD
1995 Land Rover Defender 110 Tithonus Ex Military
1995 Land Rover Discovery 3.9i V8 manual