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iphs



Member Since: 07 May 2014
Location: Norfolk
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England 2003 Range Rover Vogue Td6 Buckingham Blue
Oil Additives

Always a bit controversial this subject but here goes anyway.

What are your thoughts on Oil Additives? Question

I am not sure to be honest. I have seen these things demonstrated and have been impressed by the difference made in the before and after demo. Shocked

I have spoken to mechanics and engineers and had a very mixed response. Exclamation

The main argument against them seems to be that Car Manufacturers will recommend the best oil for their own engines in order to extend life and reduce maintenance costs, But (and here is the conspiracy bit) do they? Whistle

Engine maintenance/servicing is a very lucrative business. Why would you want to promote anything that might reduce the amount of maintenance or repair, required. I dunno.

I will admit that I have used one of these additives (not the RR) and I did without doubt notice an increase in MPG, the engine also seemed to pull better but this may have been in my mind.

What do you think. Question


Last edited by iphs on 20th May 2014 6:28pm. Edited 1 time in total

Post #260538 20th May 2014 6:17pm
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SKOT



Member Since: 24 Oct 2012
Location: Milton Keynes
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England 2006 Range Rover Supercharged 4.2 SC V8 Bonatti Grey

I read fabulous reports of Millers additives so I bought some and used it on the whole fleet 1 x petrol SC, 1 x diesel 4x4 and 1 x petrol supermini.

I noticed no performance difference at all and all three cars turned in poorer MPG then they did with the standard supermarket fuel.

Maybe coincidence but I won't be shelling out for any more! 2006 4.2 SC
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Post #260542 20th May 2014 6:27pm
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stan
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curious re he poorer mpg Steve, i found the same when i temporarily used branded fuel [more additives?] rather than my usual supermarket stuff.. ... - .- -.




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Post #260544 20th May 2014 6:29pm
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SKOT



Member Since: 24 Oct 2012
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England 2006 Range Rover Supercharged 4.2 SC V8 Bonatti Grey

Hi Stan,

Yes, a very annoying experiment! Confused

I totally ignore the computer, always fill tank to tank and use fuelly.com so my MPG calculations are going to be as close as they're ever going to get!

To be fair, you really need to be commuting the same trip, on the same roads, at the same speeds every day to get a true like for like comparison and I don't. But that said, I don't remember their usage profile being any different.

If you google "millers" there are pages and pages about it being fantastic so it's probably just me, I don't seem to have much luck with automotive things! 2006 4.2 SC
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Post #260547 20th May 2014 6:40pm
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steptoe



Member Since: 23 Jul 2012
Location: london
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When was the last time you heard of anyone who uses half decent oil wearing out their engines....
40 years ago, yes, but not anymore.

And so for that reason what's to be gained by adding anything ?

Post #260557 20th May 2014 7:57pm
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iphs



Member Since: 07 May 2014
Location: Norfolk
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Thats a very bold statement to make Steptoe, considering the amount of new and reclaimed engines (from accident damaged cars) that are bought and sold. How many engines are in bits in garages right now, having worn parts replaced. Can't all be down to bad servicing.

I'm not disagreeing with you but i see lots of engines being replaced or repaired.

40 years ago, engines were not built to the exacting tolerances as they are today. Yet how often do you hear the phrase High Milage. If modern engines and the oil used in them was as good as they say, why should that be an issue if, as you say modern engines don't wear out.

Post #260572 20th May 2014 9:20pm
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dingg1



Member Since: 29 Jun 2013
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additives keep the purchaser happy , and thats it in a nutshell

car manufacturers specify a brand of oil because they're paid to by that oil company whether it be castrol(bp) or mobil etc etc.

its ALL marketing chaps ,as long as you use a fully syth. with the correct weight and spec. you won't go wrong and there's no need for any additives

Post #260581 20th May 2014 10:14pm
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northernmonkeyjones



Member Since: 24 Mar 2012
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I wouldnt put anything in the engine which wasnt supposed to be there in the first place.

I tend to use branded oils however i doubt that it makes a massive difference so long as the oild meets the manufacturers spec and weight/viscosity.

It always amazes me at how much a litre of shell helix ultra extra costs for swmbos skoda.....£23 at the garage, yet for a litre of the same spec carlube oil only £12.

Personally i would just pour in what they say - OIL nothing more nothing less. There is nothing that can't be fixed with a hammer😜😜
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Post #260638 21st May 2014 7:55am
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Haylands



Member Since: 04 Mar 2014
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Don't use Slick50, seen loads of reports about how it actually stops the oil working as it should and increases wear. There claim about the Briggs and Stratton engine, two, one run with it, the other without, then drained both and the one without seized and the other ran for hours was repeated by Briggs and Stratton and found to be exactly the other way round....

Personally I can't see any benefit with additives if you change your oil regularly.

As an aside, those who run LPG will notice that their oil stays cleaner, this is because it is not absorbing the impurities you get from burning petrol, it still needs to be changed just as often as it is still receiving the same amount of damage from the heat and pressures inside the engine. Pete

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Post #260654 21st May 2014 10:28am
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Weejock



Member Since: 31 Dec 2011
Location: UK
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iphs wrote:
Thats a very bold statement to make Steptoe, considering the amount of new and reclaimed engines (from accident damaged cars) that are bought and sold. How many engines are in bits in garages right now, having worn parts replaced. Can't all be down to bad servicing.

I'm not disagreeing with you but i see lots of engines being replaced or repaired.

40 years ago, engines were not built to the exacting tolerances as they are today. Yet how often do you hear the phrase High Milage. If modern engines and the oil used in them was as good as they say, why should that be an issue if, as you say modern engines don't wear out.


I would have thought most modern engines that a being repaired today are due to an underlying original manufacturing fault or neglect by the owner and as steptoe says not from old age wear and tear following proper service schedules unless they have done galactic mileages. For example on the BMW M62 used in the early 4.4 RR the timing chain guides are plastic which break. Doesn't matter what oil you use, if left unfixed the engine will be toast, it's an underlying design issue. Likewise with overheating issues and headgaskets, nothing to do with the oil used or a worn engine but still will kill it.

The highest percentage of engine wear comes from cold starts when there is no oil pressure and less oil on the friction surfaces. The less you do of those the better.
If you don't do cold starts the engine can run for amazing amounts of mileage with little or no wear. Mobil tested their oil in a continuous running of an E30 BMW back in the 90's. They ran it for 1 million miles over 4 years and found little engine wear.
http://www.mobil1.co.nz/performance/miles.aspx
Ignore the fact that it's the 'magic' Mobil oil that protected it (actually from tests I've seen there are better oils out there), the same no doubt could be done with similar oils, it's the cold starts that add in the most wear and they knew it, that's why they didn't let it do any! (you would want to guarantee a good result after a 4 year experiment!).

Snake oils (additives) in general probably just work be reducing the viscosity of the oil. With a less viscose oil you get less resistance, it's the same as trying to push your hand through water instead of treacle. With a less viscose oil you might see an increase in fuel economy and slightly better performance due to less resistance. The downside is with less viscose oil films on surfaces you are likely to get more wear as it won't protect the surfaces as much, will run away quicker and not be there for cold starts. It's been proven many times in proper tests, by proper tests I mean by genuine independent organisations, that snake oils do not do anything a decent oil doesn't.
I'm guilty myself and have used snake oils in my youth when I didn't know any better (is "Slick 50" still going?) but wouldn't touch them now.
You just need to use a decent quality fully synthetic oil which passes the relevant standards and is within the grade range recommended. If you want to reduce wear then change the oil more often.

If you are dead keen on protecting and getting the most life out of an engine then you could fit a pre-oiling system such as Accusump which stores oil under pressure and releases it immediately on start up. It will do far more good than any additive. Combine that with pre-heating systems to get engine up to operating temperature as quick as possible and follow service schedules with a decent oil then you have an engine that will last for a very long time.

Post #260713 21st May 2014 4:02pm
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iphs



Member Since: 07 May 2014
Location: Norfolk
Posts: 198

England 2003 Range Rover Vogue Td6 Buckingham Blue

Thats a great write up Weejock Thumbs Up . I agree that most damage is done when starting from cold but isn't it this sitution that the additives say they protect against Question

Don't get me wrong, I DO NOT advocate the use of oil additives.

Like you I have used an additive in the past but don't and will not use one now.

I use a good quality oil and change it every 4000 to 5000 without fail.

Post #260724 21st May 2014 5:08pm
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Haylands



Member Since: 04 Mar 2014
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Slick50 still for sale in Halfords.... Pete

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Post #260734 21st May 2014 6:01pm
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ebajema



Member Since: 24 Mar 2011
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From what I know about oil (granted that is from the time I did my engineering studies and that is quite some time ago to say it gently), there are additives in there already (put there by the manufacturer) to improve the characteristics of the base oil.

These additives help the oil "cling" to surfaces to reduce cold start wear and tear. The additives or dopes are all to improve the properties of the oil.

I honestly believe if you use good quality engine and transmission oil, that will not result in damage to your engine. Regular oil changes (depending on type of engine use) are also necessary since the oil is being "cracked" by the heat and pressure between the engine parts.

I tend to use fully synthetic, good quality oils for my cars and bikes, new original filters and regular changes. The cost of oil changes is minor over the life of a car, the cost if things do go wrong very high.

Since the consequences of bad oil are quite grim, I prefer to spend a little bit of money on the good quality and regular changes then run the risk of a costly bill.

Additional additives may help cheap oil so why not buy good oil and forget about the aftermarket snake oil cra- is my view on this. MY 2010 5.0 SC Galway green and sand interior!!
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Post #260844 22nd May 2014 8:27am
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