You can see in this one how the eyelets are connected up to the car for my ctek

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Thanks for the pictures.
I hadn't noticed the ground connection at the top of the fuseboard.
Ctek should arrive tomorrow and I will post some pictures when I have fitted it.
Thanks again.

I don't think its intended as an earthing point but more a mounting point but it does earth straight to the body so that provides more than enough for the 5amp charger I have and I think should cope with upto 15-20 for the size of it. Failing that there are some in the lower section of the boot that are used by the towing electrics that you could still use  FFRR MY06 facelift With TDV8 Alloys Zeros/ATR's
Mantec Sump Guard, Rigid Load liner, MY10 BT upgrade.

There’s a high current earth at the rear of the compartment just below the fuse panel.

There are two 10mm studs, used to fix the rear bumper in place, and you can safely fix the negative battery charger lead there.

The picture below shows the location of the studs with the floor cover removed.

You do not need to remove the floor cover, just lift the plastic box out of the cubby hole under the lift-out panel below the rear fuse panel.

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bit more info on charging from out side of vehicle hear = http://www.fullfatrr.com/forum/topic23501.html

don't need full tow bar electrics just a trailer plug and socket wired into rear fusebox to make a discrete permanent charging point from outside the car

Thanks for all the help everybody.
I got the Ctek this morning and clipped it on the battery straightaway, I see what peeps mean about it getting hot !!
If I install it in the boot secret box, I will bolt it to a slab of metal and remove the plastic box.

If it lies flat on the floor you could use some liquid metal to hold two bolts down to the floor and then drop it ontop of that with some nuts and then it won't rattle around and would have some air around it.

Other option could be using a rubber tie down strap to strap it down to the boot floor directly and thus straight onto the metal and all is good. FFRR MY06 facelift With TDV8 Alloys Zeros/ATR's
Mantec Sump Guard, Rigid Load liner, MY10 BT upgrade.

Job done.
I removed the plastic bucket from the secret compartment and saw there is a bracket with 2 X M8 threaded inserts in it.
So I made an aluminium plate to bolt to it and then bent the plate at right angles so the Ctek could be bolted to that and the indicators could be seen. This will ensure the considerable heat is dissipated. I then used the ring connectors that came with the Ctek and connected to the red live lead and a chassis ground, running the cable behind and under the fuseboard cover. As the secret compartment cover has plenty of space without the plastic box, the mains lead can live under it. It can also be opened without disturbing the fuseboard cover. The mains lead just exits between the upper and lower tailgate. I will make up a short extension lead later to a convenient length.
Hopefully photos below.

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Admin note: this post has had its images recovered from a money grabbing photo hosting site and reinstated

stan wrote:

mine is already ,isnt yours?

I believe there is a relay somewhere that can change this.

In practice it's just easier to wire in a connector on eyelets as per the above post.

Only takes a minute and means you have a direct connection to the battery  FFRR MY06 facelift With TDV8 Alloys Zeros/ATR's
Mantec Sump Guard, Rigid Load liner, MY10 BT upgrade.