Home > Maintenance & Mods (L322) > Front Control arms changed |
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johnboyairey Member Since: 11 Jan 2013 Location: surrey Posts: 2032 |
Was toying the idea of changing my same parts as the rears have been done, but I don't know the front ends' history. All driving ok though. Just don't want o junk my new tyres.
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6th Oct 2015 9:07pm |
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steptoe Member Since: 23 Jul 2012 Location: london Posts: 382 |
Pattern. ฃ109. |
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6th Oct 2015 9:15pm |
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Haylands Member Since: 04 Mar 2014 Location: East Yorkshire Posts: 7962 |
Just changed mine, went OEM with the arms with ball joint attached and then just got the bush and ball joint for the other arm, both sides was under ฃ200... was a right pain pushing out the old bush in the arm though, took well over 10tons to get it out!!! Pete
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6th Oct 2015 9:49pm |
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steptoe Member Since: 23 Jul 2012 Location: london Posts: 382 |
You can't put a price on pain... Must remember to move thumb when hitting ball joints in confined spaces.
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8th Oct 2015 1:08pm |
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stan Site Moderator Member Since: 13 Jul 2010 Location: a moderate moderated moderator moderating moderately in moderation Posts: 34972 |
ouch! ... - .- -.
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8th Oct 2015 1:20pm |
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dingg1 Member Since: 29 Jun 2013 Location: PORTUGAL Posts: 1280 |
working offshore there'd be a massive inquisition about that (the thumb hit) these days and you'd feel like you'd broken into the palace and been caught on the queens pillow.
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8th Oct 2015 1:43pm |
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Rangeyman Member Since: 03 Feb 2015 Location: west yorkshire Posts: 267 |
Done a few of these type of jobs where it looks like it will never come off and I have started spraying everything in wd or equivalent 2 or 3 times sometimes a week or two before doing the job if that is possible.What I have found is by spraying up like this you will not believe how much difference it makes to a job.Just done rear shocks on my old 18 year old van with nots half rusted away,got the blowlamp and grinder ready to cut bolts but due to spraying up I didn't need either,just tap off rust ,tap on a socket to fit and came straight off !! |
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8th Oct 2015 8:03pm |
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PeterY Member Since: 01 Feb 2015 Location: Oxfordshire Posts: 21 |
just trying to do this on mine, arms are easy but the ball joint in the upright will not budge, been hitting it for 2 hours now and no movement at all
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20th Oct 2015 1:58pm |
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steptoe Member Since: 23 Jul 2012 Location: london Posts: 382 |
A jack under the upright to hold it firm so each hit actually impacts fully on the ball joint - plus a thin wide bolster hit between the "wings" of the joint and the upright.
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20th Oct 2015 6:32pm |
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northernmonkeyjones Member Since: 24 Mar 2012 Location: derby Posts: 8483 |
ball joint fork or take it to a garage..... There is nothing that can't be fixed with a hammer๐๐
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20th Oct 2015 8:31pm |
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steptoe Member Since: 23 Jul 2012 Location: london Posts: 382 |
Ball joint tool isn't of any use as It's not a ball joint that's seized , it's the ball joint body/holder that's stuck/seized in the lower wheel flange |
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20th Oct 2015 10:09pm |
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fisha Member Since: 25 Sep 2009 Location: Scotland Posts: 1261 |
I use a pointed end chisel to hit downwards into the casing of the balljoint, and as mentioned above, a flatter chisel in at the wings.
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20th Oct 2015 10:53pm |
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