Yes, sorry, I knew what you meant by the syndrome, but what exactly were you referring to as being so? Visiting from DISCO3.CO.UK
Discovery 3 TDV6 Auto HSE Zambezi Silver

Interesting thing about LR temperature gauges.
I remember writing this some years ago when I owned a Disco 1 which equally applies to RangeRovers .

A word of caution about relying on LR Disco temperature gauges – they are designed by LR not to read engine coolant temperature accurately, as follows.
The gauges read on an analogue basis upto about 40C and then settle to a “normal” position and do not register again until about 90C. ie between 40C and 90C approx the gauge does not move, intentionally.
At about 90C the gauge again responds to changes in coolant temperature and moves up towards the red, or as some people call it “the too late position”. At this point you’ve probably overheated the engine.
This explains why coolant temperature gauges in Discos settle at a particular level and never seem to move. In fact what they are doing is indicating the coolant temperature has reached about 40C. Depending on operating conditions however the engine coolant temperature continues to rise until the thermostat opens at 88C and can in fact exceed this temperature. All the time the temperature gauge is reading “normal”
Apparently this is done by LR so as not to worry Disco drivers as a correctly reading gauge would indicate the true widely varying temperature the engine coolant operates at.
If you want to see accurately what is happening to engine coolant temperature fit an additional temperature by someone like VDO that does accurately indicate coolant temperature.
This is particularly relevant to people who remove viscous fans and also those who have ac fitted, including myself.
Beware in hot weather, the temperature gauge may be reading “normal” but in reality it is only indicating the coolant is above 40C – it could be anything.
You will only find out if the gauge suddenly starts to move towards red.
Obviously there are a lot of 200 and 300 Discos operating without viscous fans without any problems but if the weather gets hot or the car is working hard, better to be cautious than overheat the engine.
None of this is a problem of course if you fit an electric fan, or a proper temperature gauge.

I suppose that the best way of describing it is, Land Rover had to invent an average temp gauge, so that paranoid owners didn't constantly complain that the gauge was working correctly and showing the actual temp of the engine, and that it was going up and down like a yo yo Which I can report, it does go up and down like a yo yo.

Do you think my cars broke , Opps, looked at the wrong gauge Land Rover says it's fine

To be fair to Land Rover, it was probably a good move, as the earlier Range Rover models had a bit of a reputation for cooking them selves, and destroying the engine. Only not that helpful to those of us who dice with danger and actually work our Range Rovers hard, knowing when to ease off or stop for a cupper is a good thing

Why they couldn't switch it back to real time reporting when a trailer is detected is beyond me, they managed to up the gearbox and the EAS, why not let the dash read true so that you don't over do it? Yesterday I couldn't spell Engineer... Today I are one!
Inventor of the 'Guide-o-Matic automatic wheel alignment tool'
Former long term L322 owner, Up/Down graded to a Classic Tractor!

Sorry if I've missed something obvious, but I'm still confused. I'm familiar with the "normalising" of the temperature gauges, and therefore what the expression meant, but I'm unsure as to what it was aimed at?

Quote:

As long as it's more than 13.5 volts and less than 15 volts there shouldn't be any real concerns, this nonsense that it must be 14.4773432739834542 volts =/- 0.000001 volts is a load of tosh. Providing that there is enough power going in to charge the battery and not too much as to over charge, there is nothing to worry about. I think that this is a strong case of temperature gauge syndrome

What was the "this" representing? The subject of the thread, the voltage accuracy, my comments, or something else?  Visiting from DISCO3.CO.UK
Discovery 3 TDV6 Auto HSE Zambezi Silver

Your voltage also goes up and down, depending on what demands you are placing on the system, coupled with an inaccurate meter, and you'd be forever changing batteries. So my gauge says that it's got 14.0 volts when running, according to this thread my battery is fubar'd but it started the car, maybe it doesn't know it's worn out

And at rest it reads 11.5 volts, so by your chart I'm running on about 16% capacity, and it still starts ? just how big is the battery to start with, and is it too big for the car? As it starts, first time, doesn't labour, doesn't dim the lights, and has been subjected to a lot of stop / start over the last year and never missed a beat.

Yes, my battery is getting old, yes, I will more than likely have to change it this year. But I'm not rushing out to grab a battery just yet. For all I know the voltage readings on the gauge could be well off and the battery is actually sitting at 12 + volts. Without having the gauge calibrated in a laboratory and certified 100% correct, all I can do is regard it as an indication as to the true state of the charging system. It is increasing by 1.6 volts when charging, so as far as I'm concerned it is working.

I doubt that the on screen display in the ffrr is calibrated either, so I would take the reading as more of a guide, rather than the exact state of the battery and charging system. So to say that it MUST read 14.5 volts is slightly misleading, I would have thought that a reading of AROUND 14.5 volts is desired, and that any extreme variations should be checked out with a more accurate meter at the battery terminals. For all I know, I could buy a new battery and it still reads 13.9 - 14 volts on my gauge. If it ain't broke then don't fix it  Yesterday I couldn't spell Engineer... Today I are one!
Inventor of the 'Guide-o-Matic automatic wheel alignment tool'
Former long term L322 owner, Up/Down graded to a Classic Tractor!

Lost for Words wrote:

kbald wrote:

My faulty battery showed 14v via the 753 hack and the new one shows as 14.5 so have to assume thats about right!

The diagnostics screen voltage is far too inaccurate to be relied upon.

FWIW, to truly check the alternator output, it actually takes a very good multimeter or even an oscilloscope. A normal multimeter is normally adequate though.

I not having a go, in fact I'm agreeing with your first statement, inaccuracy is the route of all panic  Yesterday I couldn't spell Engineer... Today I are one!
Inventor of the 'Guide-o-Matic automatic wheel alignment tool'
Former long term L322 owner, Up/Down graded to a Classic Tractor!

Right, I see.

Quote:

So my gauge says that it's got 14.0 volts when running, according to this thread my battery is fubar'd

Indeed, I'd certainly not say that. Not sure how advanced the TD6 system is, but alternator output should rise according to the battery state of charge and temperature, so a higher voltage is usually indicative of a poorer battery. It's the standing charge reading from a battery that should be used to determine it's rough state of health though, not the alternator.

Quote:

I doubt that the on screen display in the ffrr is calibrated either, so I would take the reading as more of a guide, rather than the exact state of the battery and charging system.

Exactly, just trying to make peeps aware of that (occasionally people come looking for help on Disco3/RRSport armed only with readings from the screen...). The voltage readings on the diagnostic screen, and as live data via the IID (which are a more accurate than the screen) have been discussed a few times on Disco3.

To clarify my point on the multimeter/oscilloscpoe, the reason for this is not down to the voltage resolution, but rather the sample rate. A bog standard multimeter is too slow to pick up excessive voltage ripple and spikes, which could be the root cause of an issue. So an alternator might appear to be fine, when it's not. Of course, it's not the sort of equipment that most people, myself included, could justify the cost of!

Quote:

I not having a go

No worries; never thought you were.  Visiting from DISCO3.CO.UK
Discovery 3 TDV6 Auto HSE Zambezi Silver

Well after reading all your comments/observations I went out started the car and used the on board self test (753 one), and the reading was 13.5.
The vehicle has just had a new alternator and battery fitted by Land Rover .
As long as it starts and runs everything ,which is does I DONT WORRY.

Absolutely we worry too much about what gauges tell us.
ECMs are there to take the worry away....supposedly, everything runs its self.
When things stop working a fault code is generated and stored in the electronic brain and next time you go to the stealers for a service he down loads the codes.
He scratches his head and consults a forum for answers, meanwhile he is charging you $175 an hour to fix your FF.

The only way to reliably check battery voltage is to disconnect it.
If you use the table on the first page you will have a pretty good idea as to the condition of your charge/battery system.
If you have a lead battery 13.8v will be charging it adequately.
If you have a lead/calcium battery you need more Volts or the battery is not fully charging, it doesnt mean it wont start your FF though, it just tells you that you are most likely at 75-80% charged.

Old thread dug up again guys, finally changed my faulty FSR and with the crude voltmeter plugged into the cigarette lighter I'm getting 13.6 to 13.7 on it while driving, nothing higher than that?

Am confused as a couple of you say 14v+, someone else said 12.6v was a fully charged battery?

14V or around about that mark (+-0.5V) and your battery will be charging fine.

12.6V is what the voltage should be for an unconnected, brand new, fully charged Lead Acid battery with the surface charge removed (sat for 12 hours after charging or main beams lights on for a few minutes). Anything less than that after a full charge then your battery is showing ageing.

Iv'e just checked all four batteries that I have (cars and van)

My Jag, which has stood all over Christmas without moving, starting or charging is 12.7v

I have a spare battery which is about 6 months old and not been charged since I bought it and that's 12.65v

My van which gets used every day for long journeys and the battery on it is at leased 5 years old reads 12.56v and the good old rangy which I think is the same battery from new and starts fine is 12.21v

Checked my neighbours 65 plate sport which is two months old and its 12.55v

There's an array of results!

When you check voltage dont open close or move anything on the FF for at least 5 mins all the sodding computers need to get back to sleep.
Both my P38 and L322 are very hard on the Battery and I would have to say that something mysterious happens with either of them every 2 years or so that causes battery drain.
Most of you will LAUGH but in 16 years the only thing that has stopped my P38 is a flat battery, once, and that was from leaving the lights on, best thing on 4 wheels I have ever had.
I give both my batteries a charge once a month by charger.
Low mid 12V is normal on both my RRs.
A small solar panel is probably a very good idea.

Solar Panel Doesn't that require sunshine? We don't do sunshine over here Someone needs to invent an Aqua Panel  Yesterday I couldn't spell Engineer... Today I are one!
Inventor of the 'Guide-o-Matic automatic wheel alignment tool'
Former long term L322 owner, Up/Down graded to a Classic Tractor!

Plugged my ELM OBD2 in today and viewed the voltage using Torque Pro. 14.1 to 14.2 v while driving and 12.6v after a couple of minutes after switching off.