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Home > Maintenance & Mods (L322) > 2002-2005 ZF5HP24 Gearbox Fluid Cooler and Component Change

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Saint.v8

Member Since: 13 Jun 2012
Location: UK< Surrey - Near the Middle Close to Some Green Bits
Posts: 94

2003 Range Rover Vogue 4.4 V8 Adriatic Blue

2002-2005 ZF5HP24 Gearbox Fluid Cooler and Component Change

I am a big fan of Preventative Maintenance - makes my life easier, the ability to try and spot potential faults or failures in advance and also prevents further damage to other components.

A couple of weeks ago in the very hot weather we have had (not that the recent days have been any better) but on the long slog between Guildford Train Station and the A31 Hogs Back which is a few miles long up a moderate but steady gradient after being stuck in Guildford town centre traffic and stop start driving popping into B&Q, Wickes, Tile Warehouse.....etc etc etc, the Gearbox went into its cooling stratergy, it holds the lower gears and prevents upshifts to raise engine revs and as such gearbox pump speed to try and circulate as much fluid through the cooler as possible to reduce box temperature.

This process is totally normal and should prevent the dreaded TRANS. OVERHEAT warning....if you ge tthat - you have issues that require looking at ASAP to try and save the box!

In a over a year of ownership, this is the first time it has ever gone into the Cool Down stratergy and hasn't done it since.

Last week on my girlfriends birthday, we went to Woburn Safari Park (we go every year on her birthday, she loves the place) and we spent 8 hours crawling around in 27degC heat, A/C on (off whenever we had the windows open in the pens were we weren't going to get eaten!) stopping and starting, hills, no shade etc and she never even murmoured, gearbox fine, cooling system fine.

BUT, taking note of the cooling stratergy and the reports that the oil cooler is only just capable of the job, I thought best to replace it in anycase and whilst I was there also replace the Cooler thermostat and back plate too.

The Back Plate is plastic and over years of heating and cooling, can become brittle and leak coolant - this is apparently a common fail item (what isn't on these things?) so for the sake of another £30 odd best replace it.

The Thermostat has been known to fail, I wouldn't say rare, but not a common item so I can find out, but again prevention is better than a cure and for another £30 odd and your already under the car, you may aswell.

On to the job:

Parts Required (prices not incl. VAT and from Island4x4 - no affiliation):

1 x Oil Cooler Gearbox / Transmission L322 4.4 V8 Petrol ZF Steptronic £83.33

Click image to enlarge

1 x Thermostat Oil Cooler 5-Speed (BEHR) PBM000010 £30.00

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1 x Thermostat Oil Cooler Mounting Plate (OEM) PCU000140 £30.00

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The correct grade ATF for the L322 - I use Volkswagon ATF G-052-162-A2 as it is a few quid cheaper than the Land Rover branded stuff, but aslong as it is compatible with the Esso LT71141 as specified for the ZF5HP24.
　
Only tools required are a 10mm socket and ratchet, T25 drive bit, 8mm allen key, flat screwdriver, 15mm spanner (or thereabouts), long nose pliers, A method of refilling the gearbox sump and waste oil recepticles.
　
The Job:
　
First and foremost, make sure you can get the Gearbox drain and fill plug open before you start - it can be exceptionally tight....if you can't get this open, you won't be able to top up or refill the gearbox sump....make sure you can get it open first. Also similarly, make sure you have a method of getting fluid back in, I use a pressure sprayer to pump oil back in.
　
Raise vehicle to allow you working space under car - in order to check the gearbox oil level the vehicle will need to be level, hence why I have (naughtily) used 4 ramps.
　

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Undo the many bolts holding the undertray in place and move to one side
　

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This allows you access to the Gearbox cooler mounted on the bottom corner of the main radiator, along with the thermostat and mounting plate.
　

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Time to drain the cooling system. The rad has a drain cock but use this at your peril, the tap is plastic and very very brittle....better to pull a hose off from the bottom of the rad and the hoses from the cooler thermostat.
　

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Once the coolant has been drained, time to wrestle with the gearbox oil pipes...these are fun!! There is a plastic push in collet to release the connection. I used a 15mm spanner to push the collet back and then remove the hose.
　
I did break one of the plastic collets, but with care I could bend the internal locking tabs back to release the hose, then I reshaped the locking tabs and reused on the refit - so far it seems to be holding fine!
　

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Next is to remove the cooler from the mounting plate. There is a plastic pull tab above the cooler to release the locking pins to allow the cooler to be removed. I used a long screwdriver to push the bottom of these locking pins upwards, the pulled the plastic tab to release the cooler.....be warned, there will be coolant in it that will flood out, so try not to be underneath it!
　

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The Mounting plate....
　

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Using a T25 Torx drive bit, undo the single screw holding the thermostat in place and disconnect the 3 hoses to the stat housing. Pull and wiggle the thermostat off the mounting plate.
　

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Again using a T25 bit, undo the single mounting screw on the mounting plate and remove.
　

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This is how it is all assembled for reference....
　

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For the refit, I installed the thermostat onto the plate first, remember to lubricate the O'rings first, I used vaseline. This prevents the O'ring snagging and getting damaged.
　

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Refit the mounting plate locating the bottom tags into the slots at the bottom of the radiator surround.
　

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Refit the cooler, remebering to lube the O'rings using fresh ATF to prevent seal damage.
　

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Refit the gearbox oil lines just a push and a click....
　

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I took this opportunity to change the gearbox fluid, not all of it, just what was in the sump about 4.5 litres or so as I had changed the majority of it earlier in the year (see the wiki section) so a few litres of fresh wouldn't go a miss.
　

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Prepare your method of filling and fill the sump DO NOT START THE ENGINE....
　

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Now refill the cooling system (see the How To on radiator change for the refill process)
　
Once the cooling system is filled, start the engine, and top up the cooling system as necessary, and you can now do the gearbox oil leveling (see the wiki on the ZF5HP24 Fluid and Filter Change for the process).
　
Refit the under tray and clean your workspace, lower vehicle switch off and wait for the cooling system to cool and recheck the coolant level....

Job Done!

27th Jul 2013 4:40pm

Joe90

Member Since: 29 Apr 2010
Location: Hampshire
Posts: 6434

Excellent stuff as always Saint V8

Looks not all that different from doing the same with the TD6, but no sign of a thermostat in Rave ?

stan, needs wiki-ing, please .
Experience is the only genuine knowledge, but as time passes, I have forgotten more than I can remember
Volvo V70 P2 2006 2.4 Petrol 170bhp Estate SE
MG Midget Mk1 1962

Previous: L322 Range Rover TDV8 3.6 2008; L322 Range Rover TD6 3.0 2002; P38A Range Rover V8 1999

27th Jul 2013 6:05pm

stan
Site Moderator

Member Since: 13 Jul 2010
Location: a moderate moderated moderator moderating moderately in moderation
Posts: 35879

in the wiki.. ... - .- -.

Y. O. L. O.
.

27th Jul 2013 9:29pm

Danwilderspin

Member Since: 15 Jun 2016
Location: Cambridgeshire
Posts: 2298

2007 Range Rover Vogue SE 4.2 SC V8 Zermatt Silver

Good write up

13th Jul 2016 6:49am

Clivefog

Member Since: 23 Aug 2015
Location: Bristol
Posts: 354

2003 Range Rover Vogue 4.4 V8 Java Black

The cooler is coolant fed, hence the coolant thermostat.

13th Jul 2016 7:09am

Danwilderspin

Member Since: 15 Jun 2016
Location: Cambridgeshire
Posts: 2298

Gotcha it clicked as soon as I clicked post so I revised my post

13th Jul 2016 7:11am

Rangeyman

Member Since: 03 Feb 2015
Location: west yorkshire
Posts: 267

2004 Range Rover Vogue 4.4 V8 Java Black

Great work but if you read previous threads you would have known to check the main radiator which supplies the cooler.If you still have the old cooler you can put a hosepipe on it to see how it passes water ,mine was partially blocked and it sprayed back in my face and it had its radiator changed just a few years ago[date on side]When done if you feel each oil pipe in and out you should feel a noticeable difference.If possible get it checked by diagnostics which will show actual temperatures and temps it switches at.You cannot assume it is 100% sorted unless you know the radiator is ok .Good luck !

13th Jul 2016 6:15pm

Haylands

Member Since: 04 Mar 2014
Location: East Yorkshire
Posts: 8825

2014 Range Rover Autobiography SDV8 Loire Blue

Saint V8 did this three years ago.... bit late for tips..... Pete
__________________________________________________
2014 L405 Autobiography SDV8 4.4 Loire Blue Ebony interior
-Click here for Thread-
2012 L322 Autobiography 5.0 Supercharged Ipanema Sand Sold
2011 L322 Vogue SE 4.4 TDV8 Baltic Blue. Sold
2002 L322 Vogue 4.4 V8 Epson Green (Fatty Offroader) Sold
-Click here for Project Fatty off roader-

13th Jul 2016 6:25pm

Ghostx666

Member Since: 07 Mar 2020
Location: West Midlands
Posts: 11

Hate to revive on old thread but I didnt want to start a new one.

Do you happen to have the parts number or know what the O rings are called. I got my cooler off today to replace it and noticed the new one hasnt come with o rings and my luck recently says the old o rings will be no good for refit. Greg R
Range Rover l322 4.4 V8 Vogue 2003 (current)
Land Rover Discovery 2 TD5 GS 2000 (current)
Land Rover Discovery 1 3.9 V8 Trayback 1994 (current)
Land Rover Discovery 1 300tdi 1997 (Sold 2018)

12th Mar 2020 10:55pm

p38arover

Member Since: 16 Dec 2015
Location: Western Sydney
Posts: 1587

Saint hasn't been here for 6 years - I guess the photos won't be recovered. Ron B. VK2OTC
2003 L322 V8 Auto
2007 Yamaha XJR1300
Previous: 1983, 1986 RRC; 1995, 1996 P38A; 1995 Disco1; 1984 V8 County 110; Series IIA

13th Mar 2020 12:16am

p38arover

Member Since: 16 Dec 2015
Location: Western Sydney
Posts: 1587

Ghostx666 wrote:
Hate to revive on old thread but I didnt want to start a new one.

Do you happen to have the parts number or know what the O rings are called.

Maybe PYX000070 - (WASHER - SEALING) ? Ron B. VK2OTC
2003 L322 V8 Auto
2007 Yamaha XJR1300
Previous: 1983, 1986 RRC; 1995, 1996 P38A; 1995 Disco1; 1984 V8 County 110; Series IIA

13th Mar 2020 12:20am

RRPhil

Member Since: 22 Aug 2011
Location: Blackburn, Lancashire
Posts: 1042

Yes, if weâ€™re talking about these seals, the part number is PYX000070 â€“ but they arenâ€™t O-rings

Click image to enlarge

Phil

13th Mar 2020 12:05pm

Gsxr1250dave

Member Since: 20 Oct 2018
Location: London
Posts: 1057

He is around

You can find ant/saint on the landyzone

13th Mar 2020 2:05pm

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