Usually after a few hours having been not started it's fine when I start car. Then it's either as soon as I move off, or a minute or so after driving off. Lights come on , and warnings on dash.

It's only been since this cold snap that I have had this problem.

Today I put on a battery that has been on charge for days (And showed fully charged on battery charger indicator) and I still had lights come on after starting off.

"minute or so" when you first brake? is the ABS warning light on too? ABS sensor? as thinking about it the abs is linked to the hill decent, never used it but i'm guessing it uses the abs system to control the decent?

It is all guess work mate you really need to bite the bullet and get all fault codes read with testbook, once you have them google and forums will lead you to the fix.

Only had mine for a few months and today it went "bong" thought bo**ox what now, temp below 3.5 warning...lucky for now...  2004 black Vogue TD6

Sometimes as soon as I come off the brakes, when pulling away. Not the first use of brakes either, I did nearly 3 miles the other day without any lights/warnings... (I'd hope I used the brakes sometime during that journey! )

Yes ABS, HDC lights are on. Could be sensor. Have read somewhere that sensor wires have a tendancy to rub through against inside of wheels/tyres.

Car's always bonging for some reason......So often you don't even notice.....

letsavit2 wrote:

So what is it then landrover? low ambient temperature, low battery voltage or ABS ECU....

The correct answer is: D - all of the above.

Low ambient temp: the viscosity of the oils increases, tolerances decrease - the motor becomes much harder to turn over. And diesels require longer cranking to attain adequate combustion temps.

Low battery voltage: the battery stores and releases electrcity by way of a chemical reaction. Chemical reations are generally slowed at lower temps so the battery will not be putting out as much power on a winter cold start as in the summer. Obviously a new battery will be affected less than an older battery. The older the battery, the lower the voltage and the greater the voltage drop on starting.

ABS ECU: the ABS, EAS, and HDC are all tied together through the DSC (got that?). If the voltage drops too far for too long, the ABS assumes that there is not enough power available to run the solenoids/ABS pump. The engineers obviously didn't take the real world into account during the software development and this problemwill have been rectified in a later sw version. 
RRC 2Dr, RRC 4Dr,
P38, and 2 L322s
(wife thinks I'm nuts - prob right, too)

So.....Can I get software upgraded, or do I have to fit new ECU somewhere?

double post  
RRC 2Dr, RRC 4Dr,
P38, and 2 L322s
(wife thinks I'm nuts - prob right, too)

Last edited by SteveMFr on 5th Dec 2010 1:50pm. Edited 1 time in total

quoting your post:

Richcl wrote:

Action: Should a customer express concern regarding the above, refer to the Service Instruction detailed in this Bulletin in order to replace the anti-lock braking (ABS) electronic control unit (ECU)

LR says fit a new ECU - that's how to upgrade the sw.

There are savvy types, who remove the epropm from a new unit, read the sw, and flash it to a new eprom which is then installed into the old ECU. For the average guy, it's less expensive to get a new ecu, tho.  
RRC 2Dr, RRC 4Dr,
P38, and 2 L322s
(wife thinks I'm nuts - prob right, too)

Thanks, Which ECU do I need to replace, ABS?

That's what it says in the TSB you posted. I would really triple check everything before doing this, tho. And if you have a dealer confirm the diagnosis and replace the ecu for you, you can at least fight for your money back if the problem is not cured. 
RRC 2Dr, RRC 4Dr,
P38, and 2 L322s
(wife thinks I'm nuts - prob right, too)